Accelerator Cable Install Options

[MiddleGACruiser]

I installed a new accelerator cable after rolling over the old one and breaking it. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) When installing the new one I broke it at the firewall (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif) (cheaper construction that the old one). Seems like it would be an easy job but I've already proven that wrong. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/screwy.gif) Is there a specific way to install this so I don't break the replacement? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)

[r_towle]

Well, I have done two, but I am no expert.
I always fish in the section that goes into the car first so the rest of the cable and sheath is heading straight out the back...I can wiggle it that way..

then once its actually hooked up to the pedal, I gently bend the sheathed part (mind you I have the rear of the car way up in the air on jack stands) up through the hole in the engine tray on the passengers side, and then get up and finish installing it from above, tie into the plenum, and finally the throttle body connection.

Rich

[Pat Garvey]

Well, I have done two, but I am no expert.
I always fish in the section that goes into the car first so the rest of the cable and sheath is heading straight out the back...I can wiggle it that way..

then once its actually hooked up to the pedal, I gently bend the sheathed part (mind you I have the rear of the car way up in the air on jack stands) up through the hole in the engine tray on the passengers side, and then get up and finish installing it from above, tie into the plenum, and finally the throttle body connection.

Rich

Agree that this is the way to go, but you still have to be a contortionist with zero body fat to make it all connect inside the cabin. Good thing they last a long time!

[MiddleGACruiser]

Thanks for the replies. I followed all the same steps except I added one where I break it trying to push it on the tab that sticks out of the firewall. I think I'll leave that one out this time. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/thumb3d.gif)

[r_towle]

dont try to do that.
I never do...
It happens on its own...
BUT
Now that you have a new version of the cable that is broken, take out the cable and you may need to clean up and grind off some of the tube sticking out of the firewall to ensure that the next one slips on.
Rich

[MiddleGACruiser]

Has anyone used the Weltmeister accelerator cable? They claim its more sturdy, is it worth the extra money? Opinions? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wavey.gif)

[John]

Return the defective cable.

I had this happen to me. The crimped flange on the cable fell off as I was installing it. The supplier replaced it without cost (they didn't even want the old one back).

The replacement (same make and manufacturer) was much better (still is). When did you buy your cable? I am guessing that there may have been a bad batch just over a year ago.

Just my $0.02

[Chris Pincetich]

I've done 2, both TerryCables and both with the rear end up high for good access. Did you unhook the pedal end ball socket? On my car I was too nervous due to nearby rust, and the trick was to thread the new cable in from the back, then screw it on, but out back the cable needed to be perfectly straight to deal with my twisting to screw it to the ball socket. On the other car, no rust, ball socket did pry off (and snap on) without incident, and the job was quicker and less painful. SEVERAL "racer" peeps reccomended the TerryCable and told me to take all the OEM plastic sheath out of the tunnel because the TerryCable doesn't need it. 6 months later it still works great. Very sturdy, teflon coated, cool sticker in the bag, and both I used fit perfectly. Make sure you are bending and threading to the top of the engine LAST after it is hooked up to the pedal. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)