 914-6 ignition switch removal, Security heads on the screws, shear bolts, whatever they are |
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| Gint |
 Aug 16 2007, 09:19 PM
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#1
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Mike Ginter  Group: Admin Posts: 16,082 Joined: 26-December 02 From: Denver CO. Member No.: 20 Region Association: Rocky Mountains   |
Any idea how to get the heads off of the front of the screws holding the ignition switch in? I've heard "break them off" and "drill them out". I suppose I could drill them out, but that doesn't seem quite right either. I get the concept of the heads on the front side of the dash preventing you from screwing the screws out from the back, but how to break those heads off is the question.
Any great ideas out there? The dash is lying on my living room floor and totally portable so access isn't an issue. Search came up with a few threads with suggestions as mentioned before but no real details. |
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| TROJANMAN |
Aug 16 2007, 09:37 PM
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Looks nice in pictures......... Group: Members Posts: 5,271 Joined: 5-March 04 From: Colorado Member No.: 1,753 Region Association: None |
Didn't they use shear bolts?
I am pretty sure that they were designed NOT to be removed, so drilling them out may be the best bet, and then use a screw extractor bit. Or you could try a dremel |
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| Brian_Boss |
Aug 16 2007, 10:06 PM
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Member Group: Members Posts: 324 Joined: 3-June 03 From: Dallas, TX Member No.: 781 |
Assuming they are the same as a 911, you drill the heads off the bolts with a drill slightly larger than the shank of the bolt.
The term shear bolt refers to the installation of the bolts. You tighten them then break off the drive part of the bolt. This is an external torx head on the later 911's. Hope this helps, Brian |
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| RON S. |
Aug 17 2007, 05:24 AM
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#4
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9140430841, FINALLY RUNNING Group: Members Posts: 1,212 Joined: 22-May 03 From: WALTERBORO,S.C. Member No.: 724 Region Association: South East States |
I've removed a lot of ignition switches from junked cars over the years,and almost every one of them had those ''Tamper Proof''bolts on them. I've found out that they really are not fastened down all that tight.They are assembled with a shear off drive bit,and the shearing torque is really low when it was originally fastened down. What I've found that has always worked for me is to grind a small pair of flats on the head,180 degrees apart with a Dremel,or a good file and grab the bolt head with a needle nose Vise Grip.Once the bolt turns just a little bit,you can twist it out the rest of the way by hand. I've never had a pair of those bolts that I could not get out.A PITA for sure,but I've never resorted to a drill & re-threading. Ron |
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| Gint |
Aug 17 2007, 10:05 AM
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#5
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Mike Ginter Group: Admin Posts: 16,082 Joined: 26-December 02 From: Denver CO. Member No.: 20 Region Association: Rocky Mountains |
That's the answer I was looking for. Thanks.
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