 Turning on electrical system w/o fuel tank in place, Bad idea? |
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| Lavanaut |
  Sep 25 2007, 12:20 PM
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#1
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Hungry Mind : Thirsty Gullet  Group: Members Posts: 916 Joined: 20-June 06 From: Bend, OR Member No.: 6,265 Region Association: Pacific Northwest  |
I just finished reassembling the blower and heater flappers in the front trunk. Before I put the fuel tank back in, I'd like to test to make sure it's working (I replaced the heater controls in the cockpit as well). I started thinking that turning the ignition to the on position might trigger the fuel pump...and that stopped me in my tracks. I'm definitely *not* talking about trying to start the car...just get the electrical going to test the blower up front.
I've got fuel line extensions hooked up to the lines that emerge from the center tunnel, and have those taped off. Newb out, thanks! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) |
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| So.Cal.914 |
Sep 25 2007, 12:35 PM
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#2
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"...And it has a front trunk too." Group: Members Posts: 6,588 Joined: 15-February 04 From: Low Desert, CA./ Hills of N.J. Member No.: 1,658 Region Association: None |
There is a relay you can pull out on the relay board in the engine compartment.
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| Rand |
Sep 25 2007, 12:36 PM
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#3
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Cross Member Group: Members Posts: 7,409 Joined: 8-February 05 From: OR Member No.: 3,573 Region Association: None |
You could always pull the power wire off the pump. Or pull the relay or fuse (on relay board in engine compartment).
Edit: Oops. Paul beat me to it. |
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| Cap'n Krusty |
Sep 25 2007, 12:49 PM
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#4
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Cap'n Krusty Group: Members Posts: 10,794 Joined: 24-June 04 From: Santa Maria, CA Member No.: 2,246 Region Association: Central California |
If it makes you feel better, just remove the 2 fuel system relays on the engine compartment relay board. If you're not sure which 2, remove all 3. If you have a Pertronix, remove the wire(s) from the 15 (+) terminal of the coil, too. The Cap'n
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| Lavanaut |
Sep 25 2007, 03:35 PM
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#5
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Hungry Mind : Thirsty Gullet Group: Members Posts: 916 Joined: 20-June 06 From: Bend, OR Member No.: 6,265 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
Sounds like my "hmmm, wait a second" feeling was correct, glad I checked in here first. Thanks guys for the responses.
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| Spoke |
Sep 25 2007, 04:35 PM
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#6
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Jerry Group: Members Posts: 6,989 Joined: 29-October 04 From: Allentown, PA Member No.: 3,031 Region Association: None 
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Even if you have points, it is a good thing to remove the +12V lead off of the coil. If the points are closed and power applied w/o running the engine, large current/large power could be dissipated through the coil.
Spoke |
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| Lavanaut |
Sep 29 2007, 05:50 PM
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#7
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Hungry Mind : Thirsty Gullet Group: Members Posts: 916 Joined: 20-June 06 From: Bend, OR Member No.: 6,265 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
I just went through this ~ removed relays 74 and 75, and disconnected the coil. Tested my new heater controls, everything's functioning perfectly. I was a bit confused when I saw my relay board was missing a relay...until I read that it's for the rear window defrost. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
Thanks again! |
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