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> SOB, Warm motor idles low
redshift
post Dec 30 2003, 01:36 PM
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I went to handle my registration... fine.. get back in car, have to take side streets.. main roads stacked up..

I drove into downtown, engine fully warmed up, spent two minutes on the starter trying to get her to go, flutter, flutter, flutter.. never really ignited anything, just finally the revs went up.. and she's idling like 300..

I've never had that happen.

Ususally, the unstable nature of her idle between starts (if idle settles at 900, it's going to 900 on idle for that trip, til you crank it again) can be dealt with by staying in the tq curve for the last minute before parking it.

Not this time.

So, I drove home, shut down, and she cranked right up that time, still idles in the low hundreds.. there can't be any oil pressure down there, so I keep my foot on it.

I hope this isn't a valve related problem, one more valve train related problem, and goodbye flat 4s, it's been fun.


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Qarl
post Dec 30 2003, 01:37 PM
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redshift
post Dec 30 2003, 01:39 PM
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ASSHOLE!



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ChrisReale
post Dec 30 2003, 03:32 PM
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make sure everything in the engine compartment that is supposed to be plugged in, is plugged in.
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redshift
post Dec 30 2003, 03:34 PM
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I have.

I am chasing the possibility of a failure in my recently replaced AAR.

I am thinking it may not close completely, and when it does, all fuel, no air..

I gotta find that plug I was using, and pray.

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fuch toy
post Dec 30 2003, 03:42 PM
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redshift
post Dec 30 2003, 03:42 PM
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Gas, yep... only running the most expensive of the best.

Ok, anyone seen my duct tape?


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Bruce Allert
post Dec 30 2003, 04:16 PM
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Hey, mine does that. Gets warm & idles around 300. Sometimes if I shut it off for a few minutes then start it, it idles at the normal 900. Kinda like a re-boot of the ECU.
I thought the same about the AAR. As Soon as I can do the cold garage thing I'm going to take it out & PB Blast it just to see if that helps. Meanwhile I'l use my foot for revs!

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redshift
post Dec 30 2003, 04:24 PM
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I taped off all air holes, started it, readjusted idle (hey... clue... idle adjust is now half out, instead of closed to the stops) I took it out on the interstate with the windows down, it's smooth as glass...

..drove home hot, idle 1000, let it sit a minute, dropped off to around 900 for a few minutes, turned it off, and it started right up, idle around 1000.

I am hoping I stay happy.

Anyone have ANOTHER working AAR?

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redshift
post Dec 30 2003, 04:27 PM
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and just to share with you all..

I can't believe the cops haven't gotten here yet
I passed a Fire Marshall doing way over the limit

way
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3d914
post Dec 30 2003, 10:03 PM
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redshift,

This may sound dizzy, but check the wiring to your Cyl Head Temp sensor. I had the identical problem. I checked the wiring (including CHT) and everything checked out fine. I then happened to wiggle the wire on the CHT with it connected to an Ohm meter. It was an intermittentent fault. I replaced it and that took care of it.

Good luck. DUH! Obviously you've got plenty at the moment.
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redshift
post Dec 30 2003, 10:18 PM
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Thanks for saying that, I snooped around it first (connector is taped up, and wrapped) and went for what I know...

That makes way more sense, because of the way it felt while failing to start, and I remember that drop off feeling from another car stalling..

Fun to work on the car!


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Bruce Allert
post Dec 30 2003, 10:20 PM
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Miles,
thank you for "Because"
I had no Idea there was that many attacks.


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Queenie
post Dec 30 2003, 10:37 PM
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QUOTE(redshift @ Dec 30 2003, 11:36 AM)
engine fully warmed up, spent two minutes on the starter trying to get her to go, flutter, flutter, flutter.. never really ignited anything, just finally the revs went up.. and she's idling like 300..


Ha!

Welcome to my world.
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redshift
post Dec 30 2003, 10:42 PM
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You lil shit! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif) you and Q'arl (The Klingon faced boy) are now tied!

hahaha

..and thanks, it's nice to be here!

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Bleyseng
post Dec 30 2003, 11:10 PM
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Yep, could be a bad connection on the CHT wire or you adjust the idle while the AAR is stuck partway open and then it finally closes and it idles at 300.

Shoot in PB Blaster into it and then do it again in a hour or so then drive it till warm (oil temps up) Check to see if it closes all the way (finger over the hose trick) It should be closed in about 5 minutes.

Geoff
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redshift
post Dec 30 2003, 11:30 PM
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Thanks Geoff, I just perused the Anders Djet WebBible to look over the CHT failure modes.

The AAR is confusing things, I am convinced it's a (3rd one too!) problem. 2 annoying ones, when they play together. I am heading out to meter the cht when it gets back above freezing... err.. 60 degrees outside.

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bbrRrrrrRr..


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Bleyseng
post Dec 31 2003, 12:00 AM
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I have a extra AAR valve but its made of unobtainium so I ain't selling it.

Geoff
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ChrisReale
post Dec 31 2003, 12:03 AM
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Brad has about 10 laying around his shop. I know because I was physically scaling his walls helping him look for a 23mm f'in master cylinder.... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/ar15.gif)
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redshift
post Dec 31 2003, 12:31 AM
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Fine then, I'll just stick one tube in my ass, and one in my mouth, and stop breathing when I get the motor warmed up.

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Ok, which end goes in your mouth? I don't want to make a mistake the first time.


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