I went to handle my registration... fine.. get back in car, have to take side streets.. main roads stacked up..

I drove into downtown, engine fully warmed up, spent two minutes on the starter trying to get her to go, flutter, flutter, flutter.. never really ignited anything, just finally the revs went up.. and she's idling like 300..

I've never had that happen.

Ususally, the unstable nature of her idle between starts (if idle settles at 900, it's going to 900 on idle for that trip, til you crank it again) can be dealt with by staying in the tq curve for the last minute before parking it.

Not this time.

So, I drove home, shut down, and she cranked right up that time, still idles in the low hundreds.. there can't be any oil pressure down there, so I keep my foot on it.

I hope this isn't a valve related problem, one more valve train related problem, and goodbye flat 4s, it's been fun.


M

ASSHOLE!



M

make sure everything in the engine compartment that is supposed to be plugged in, is plugged in.

I have.

I am chasing the possibility of a failure in my recently replaced AAR.

I am thinking it may not close completely, and when it does, all fuel, no air..

I gotta find that plug I was using, and pray.




M

Got gas?

Gas, yep... only running the most expensive of the best.

Ok, anyone seen my duct tape?


M

Hey, mine does that. Gets warm & idles around 300. Sometimes if I shut it off for a few minutes then start it, it idles at the normal 900. Kinda like a re-boot of the ECU.
I thought the same about the AAR. As Soon as I can do the cold garage thing I'm going to take it out & PB Blast it just to see if that helps. Meanwhile I'l use my foot for revs!

.............b

I taped off all air holes, started it, readjusted idle (hey... clue... idle adjust is now half out, instead of closed to the stops) I took it out on the interstate with the windows down, it's smooth as glass...

..drove home hot, idle 1000, let it sit a minute, dropped off to around 900 for a few minutes, turned it off, and it started right up, idle around 1000.

I am hoping I stay happy.

Anyone have ANOTHER working AAR?

-(*&^%(@!%%%%%%@#(&^%)-



M

and just to share with you all..

I can't believe the cops haven't gotten here yet
I passed a Fire Marshall doing way over the limit

way

redshift,

This may sound dizzy, but check the wiring to your Cyl Head Temp sensor. I had the identical problem. I checked the wiring (including CHT) and everything checked out fine. I then happened to wiggle the wire on the CHT with it connected to an Ohm meter. It was an intermittentent fault. I replaced it and that took care of it.

Good luck. DUH! Obviously you've got plenty at the moment.

Thanks for saying that, I snooped around it first (connector is taped up, and wrapped) and went for what I know...

That makes way more sense, because of the way it felt while failing to start, and I remember that drop off feeling from another car stalling..

Fun to work on the car!


M

Miles,
thank you for "Because"
I had no Idea there was that many attacks.


..........b

Ha!

Welcome to my world.

You lil shit! you and Q'arl (The Klingon faced boy) are now tied!

hahaha

..and thanks, it's nice to be here!



M

Yep, could be a bad connection on the CHT wire or you adjust the idle while the AAR is stuck partway open and then it finally closes and it idles at 300.

Shoot in PB Blaster into it and then do it again in a hour or so then drive it till warm (oil temps up) Check to see if it closes all the way (finger over the hose trick) It should be closed in about 5 minutes.

Geoff

Thanks Geoff, I just perused the Anders Djet WebBible to look over the CHT failure modes.

The AAR is confusing things, I am convinced it's a (3rd one too!) problem. 2 annoying ones, when they play together. I am heading out to meter the cht when it gets back above freezing... err.. 60 degrees outside.



bbrRrrrrRr..


M

I have a extra AAR valve but its made of unobtainium so I ain't selling it.

Geoff

Brad has about 10 laying around his shop. I know because I was physically scaling his walls helping him look for a 23mm f'in master cylinder....

Fine then, I'll just stick one tube in my ass, and one in my mouth, and stop breathing when I get the motor warmed up.



Ok, which end goes in your mouth? I don't want to make a mistake the first time.


M

Dont install the next one you get. Leave it hanging while you test it for a few days. Getting those two screws in/out is a bitch.

I bench test them with a 12 volt source (battery charger) with them locked into a vise. You can easily pop the top off and see if the piece inside rotates. If you feel the AAR getting warm.. then the heating element still works. Then you know it is the "rotating" piece inside that is gummed up. Before you pop the top of it.. put a mark on it so you can get the "clocking" position correct when you go back together.

Its a controlled vacuum leak. Pretty easy to fix or find a replacement.


I thought I had pics of the top off.. I cant seem to find them.


B

Two screws really aren't necessary for normal operation are they? I'm pretty sure, for that reason, I left one out.


..........b

I thought that since there is only one wire to the unit, that it uses the case "bolted down" as the ground?

if the AAR is stuck (half open) it will idle HIGH and the idle will hunt when WARM.
it will idle OK when COLD.

if the AAR is stuck closed, the car won't idle and DIE when COLD,
but will idle FINE when WARM.

does not sound like your problem ...
Andy

PS: i love CAPS

3rd AAR sticks partially (teilweise) open when fully warm, I removed it, and I had to back my idle adjust half-way out to compensate.

I can't get the vac hose out of my ass.

CHT failure mode is sporadic, and I haven't been able to 'see' any problem with the multi-tester yet, but it seems to only fail hot, and I haven't goten that far yet.....

Damnit!~ Have you ever tried to surf the web for ass pictures? Nothing but porn! 1000's of 'barely 18' female asses, and not one hairy 'almost 40' man ass.. you can't even make a joke around here.. I did find a picture of the hoses on www.beatme.org?


M

Zois has one.

Update: I FOUND A HAIRY ASS PICTURE!

I got the car hot.. hell I actually drove it around without any problems at all, parked it, and hooked up the multi-tester, I can't MAKE the CHT fail for the meter, seemed all my problems were after going through a heat soak situation.. if it ain't soaked now, I dunno..

-shrug-

I guess I'll get a spare, and carry a 13mm split socket everywhere.

Thanks, without you guys, I'd just be pissed, and parked for a week.

M

Steve you are correct.. I left out the part of running a jumper wire for ground for testing.

I'm the one going crazy.. not you..


B

Oh, the AAR, yeah, it's as toasted as the other 2.

Makes a shitty paperweight also.


M

Fix it. If it gets hot.. you can clean it up and it will work fine.


B

Won't fix man... won't get hot. 3 down. PBlaster and all.

Anyone have a tested 'known' AAR that will work correctly? I've got more than a dollar a day in ones that don't close all the way....

(F-expletive)


M

Yep, but like I said its made of unobtainium Dude...

Open one up as its easy to do and fix the heating element. That should keep those idle hands busy for awhile....instead of searching for hairy ass pics.

Geoff

And Geoff went upon the mount, and Ferry spake unto him, and he sayeth, "Taketh these, and taunteth the meek, that they may remain of meager warm up routine. Keep them by your side as you go. Let no man touch them. This is my word, and I'll be back in 20 minutes with another crate of them, just don't let them out of your site.".

Ferd laughed.

Don't you make me buy a Fiat.


M

In 18 years I have only ran across 2 AAR's that didnt get hot when you applied power. It takes 8-10 minutes for you to feel them getting warm.

CHECK again.


B