 door jam repair, get the lead out |
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| southernmost914 |
 Dec 20 2007, 07:36 AM
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#1
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KEY WEST/HAVANA Tunnel Authority  Group: Members Posts: 338 Joined: 16-October 07 From: Key West/ St. Augie, Fl USA Member No.: 8,234 Region Association: South East States 
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What is the latest way to repair the door jam to quarter panel seam? I think I remeber it being a lead seam. Should I spot weld, seam weld,brass braize or melt some sinkers?
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| McMark |
Dec 20 2007, 01:37 PM
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#2
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914 Freak! Group: Retired Admin Posts: 20,179 Joined: 13-March 03 From: Grand Rapids, MI Member No.: 419 Region Association: None |
Originally it is spot welded and leaded to look right. The lead isn't structural. I would try to repeat the original repair and use body filler instead of lead.
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| southernmost914 |
Dec 20 2007, 02:28 PM
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#3
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KEY WEST/HAVANA Tunnel Authority Group: Members Posts: 338 Joined: 16-October 07 From: Key West/ St. Augie, Fl USA Member No.: 8,234 Region Association: South East States
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Thanks for the info.
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| tdgray |
Dec 20 2007, 02:43 PM
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#4
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Thank God Nemo is not here to see this Group: Members Posts: 9,705 Joined: 5-August 03 From: Akron, OH Member No.: 984 Region Association: None |
Look into a product called "All Metal" made by US Chemical. Get it at your local autobody supply store.
Much better than filler... impervious to water. |
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| r_towle |
Dec 20 2007, 02:46 PM
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#5
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Custom Member Group: Members Posts: 24,594 Joined: 9-January 03 From: Taxachusetts Member No.: 124 Region Association: North East States
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Dont use brass whatever you do. I was told by a guy (I did not listen) that the paint will never stick.
It did for 6 years, but eventually it became bubbly. I know there is brass on our cars, specifically around the tail lights, but I would never use it again. For the proper German way....spot weld and lead. For todays methods, faux spot welds with premium bondo. Faux spot welds can be done with a mig if you drill holes in the top panel and practice on the bench with scrap. Make the weld bigger and grind down with various tools of power.. The bondo...hmmm On the 356 the door gaps were made perfect using lead on the edge that is perpendicular to the fender. I have yet to do it, but I will soon be replacing a section the same as yours, but on a 356. I am told by many that bondo is fine for this. I have my doubts. It does not seem that in an area that gets alot of vibration and impact that it wont crack, but I hope I am wrong. If you have never done lead work, well...it sucks. Its a long long process that creates alot of heat on the panel, can warp, can also not stick if you dont tin it right...it just sucks. Rich |
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| sww914 |
Dec 20 2007, 03:19 PM
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#6
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 2,439 Joined: 4-June 06 Member No.: 6,146 Region Association: None |
If you keep the body filler thin, apply it on a clean substrate, and it's 1/8" thick or less, it won't crack. It is porous, so it must be protected from water on all sides. If it's as much as 1/4" thick, it may crack. If it's more than 1/4" thick, it will crack eventually. It's well worth the extra $20.00 for the premium filler- Rage Gold or comparable, it'll pay or it's self in sandpaper alone, not to mention ease of application or ease of sanding or durability.
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