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> front seal removal, special tool ?
nycchef
post Sep 5 2008, 01:58 PM
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how do you remove the fan hub to get to the front seal? the 914 manual says i need a special tool. i don,t have one, i don,t even know what kid of tool it is or why itis special. any alternatives? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)
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type47
post Sep 5 2008, 03:43 PM
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my alternative was to get 2 steel plates about 1/8th inch thick (or thin enough to fit between the hub and the case) and kinda didn't matter the dimensions but there was stock about 1.5"wide and about 4-5" long. when you remove the fan there are 3 long, i think 8mm bolts. to remove the hub, take the 2 pieces of stock and one should fit under a screw hole in the hub and the other should fit under the other 2 screw holes in the hub. screw in the bolts into the holes in the hub until they touch the stock. the stock is under the hub, over the case: between the hub and the case. gently screw in the bolts to put force outward on the hub, probably alternating tightening each bolt a little at a time. the factory tool is a u-shaped metal piece that esentially does the same thing.
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nycchef
post Sep 5 2008, 04:28 PM
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QUOTE(type47 @ Sep 5 2008, 01:43 PM) *

my alternative was to get 2 steel plates about 1/8th inch thick (or thin enough to fit between the hub and the case) and kinda didn't matter the dimensions but there was stock about 1.5"wide and about 4-5" long. when you remove the fan there are 3 long, i think 8mm bolts. to remove the hub, take the 2 pieces of stock and one should fit under a screw hole in the hub and the other should fit under the other 2 screw holes in the hub. screw in the bolts into the holes in the hub until they touch the stock. the stock is under the hub, over the case: between the hub and the case. gently screw in the bolts to put force outward on the hub, probably alternating tightening each bolt a little at a time. the factory tool is a u-shaped metal piece that esentially does the same thing.

let me see if i inderstand this. the metal plates are a backstop , as you screw in the bolts the hub will push forward?
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turboman808
post Sep 5 2008, 04:30 PM
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special tools mean a chisel and hammer.
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PeeGreen 914
post Sep 5 2008, 04:33 PM
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QUOTE(turboman808 @ Sep 5 2008, 03:30 PM) *

special tools mean a chisel and hammer.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif) That's dangerous.
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nycchef
post Sep 5 2008, 04:36 PM
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QUOTE(Phoenix 914-6GT @ Sep 5 2008, 02:33 PM) *

QUOTE(turboman808 @ Sep 5 2008, 03:30 PM) *

special tools mean a chisel and hammer.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif) That's dangerous.

that's nate he is the poster child for dangerous.
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r_towle
post Sep 5 2008, 05:05 PM
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QUOTE(nycchef @ Sep 5 2008, 06:28 PM) *

QUOTE(type47 @ Sep 5 2008, 01:43 PM) *

my alternative was to get 2 steel plates about 1/8th inch thick (or thin enough to fit between the hub and the case) and kinda didn't matter the dimensions but there was stock about 1.5"wide and about 4-5" long. when you remove the fan there are 3 long, i think 8mm bolts. to remove the hub, take the 2 pieces of stock and one should fit under a screw hole in the hub and the other should fit under the other 2 screw holes in the hub. screw in the bolts into the holes in the hub until they touch the stock. the stock is under the hub, over the case: between the hub and the case. gently screw in the bolts to put force outward on the hub, probably alternating tightening each bolt a little at a time. the factory tool is a u-shaped metal piece that esentially does the same thing.

let me see if i inderstand this. the metal plates are a backstop , as you screw in the bolts the hub will push forward?


Yes, exactly zactly breath...

Rich
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nycchef
post Sep 5 2008, 05:13 PM
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let me see if i inderstand this. the metal plates are a backstop , as you screw in the bolts the hub will push forward?
[/quote]

Yes, exactly zactly breath...

Rich
[/quote]
so providing i pull this off, literally, should i assume that after installing the washer and the new seal the hub will just slide baqck on?
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VaccaRabite
post Sep 5 2008, 07:18 PM
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Or, you could go to your FLAPS and get a 3 arm gear puller for like 20 bucks and safely pull it that way.

Zach
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VaccaRabite
post Sep 5 2008, 07:20 PM
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looks like this, but three arms. I got mine at Autozone.

(IMG:http://www.autozone.com/images/products/grn/grn47016003.jpg)

2 arm version might work as well, but 3 arm adjustable works more better.

Zach
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r_towle
post Sep 5 2008, 07:20 PM
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QUOTE(nycchef @ Sep 5 2008, 07:13 PM) *

let me see if i inderstand this. the metal plates are a backstop , as you screw in the bolts the hub will push forward?

QUOTE

Yes, exactly zactly breath...

Rich

QUOTE

so providing i pull this off, literally, should i assume that after installing the washer and the new seal the hub will just slide baqck on?


Yes, its a tapered fit that gets held in with the single bolt.
You can heat it to expand it a bit, but I have never needed to do that.
I cant remember the torque specs, but you really dont want to go over that spec...its a threaded hold in the end of the crankshaft.. not cool to futz up.

There is also a key, dont loose it.
Rich
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r_towle
post Sep 5 2008, 07:23 PM
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the special tool it a flat plate about 3 inches wide with a "U" cut out of the middle. You drop that plate down around the crank and use the bolts to push the hub off.

Rich
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Cap'n Krusty
post Sep 5 2008, 08:07 PM
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Good old fashioned "church keys" work well as "backstops" (your word), but ya gotta have the hardened ones. The cheap ones just bend. The torque on the bolt is 18 ft/lbs. The Cap'n
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nycchef
post Sep 5 2008, 09:47 PM
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QUOTE(Cap'n Krusty @ Sep 5 2008, 06:07 PM) *

Good old fashioned "church keys" work well as "backstops" (your word), but ya gotta have the hardened ones. The cheap ones just bend. The torque on the bolt is 18 ft/lbs. The Cap'n


gonna see if autozone has the tool. started to do it the makeshift way usiing some light metal but the bolt started to go through. got scared, gave up. thanks for the info will let you guys know how it pans out tomorrow (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
rich
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VaccaRabite
post Sep 5 2008, 10:27 PM
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make sure you remove the big washer directly behind the bolt before you try pulling it.

Also, get some PB Blaster in a spray bottle and spray it down really good to make the job a little easier. They are under a lot of pressure. The first one I removed literally shot across the room when it finally popped.

Make sure that the bolt is threaded in all the way or it will bend. Put the "point" of the puller on the bolt. If you end up bending the bolt, let me know. McMaster sells them in 5 packs. I have 4 of them left over. :-)

Zach
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Dave_Darling
post Sep 5 2008, 10:33 PM
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Three nice thick fender washers work well. Anything that's decently strong and wide enough to spread out the load is great.

If you have a puller already, you can try that. But washers are cheaper yet than any puller. I think they're also easier in this case, because they'll hold themselves in place with no fussing.

--DD
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r_towle
post Sep 5 2008, 10:37 PM
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two fat flatbars, prybars...called the wonder bar...or as Cap'n said....church key.
That is what I use...one on each side..

Rich
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nycchef
post Sep 6 2008, 10:20 AM
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QUOTE(r_towle @ Sep 5 2008, 08:37 PM) *

two fat flatbars, prybars...called the wonder bar...or as Cap'n said....church key.
That is what I use...one on each side..

Rich


special tools humbug...3 5/8 washers damned thing flew out and landed in an ashtray. 914 world inguenuity at it,s best. thank you all (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif)
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Cap'n Krusty
post Sep 6 2008, 01:52 PM
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QUOTE(nycchef @ Sep 6 2008, 09:20 AM) *

QUOTE(r_towle @ Sep 5 2008, 08:37 PM) *

two fat flatbars, prybars...called the wonder bar...or as Cap'n said....church key.
That is what I use...one on each side..

Rich


special tools humbug...3 5/8 washers damned thing flew out and landed in an ashtray. 914 world inguenuity at it,s best. thank you all (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif)


Hope you didn't honk up the end of the case that retains the seal. BTW, be sure to replace the o-ring behind the hub. The Cap'n
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JeffBowlsby
post Sep 6 2008, 02:45 PM
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Do it once, do it right. I bet this tool is still available and I further bet a good P-car or VW parts shop has them.

Try http://baumtools.com/


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