Home  |  Forums  |  914 Info  |  Blogs
 
914World.com - The fastest growing online 914 community!
 
Porsche, and the Porsche crest are registered trademarks of Dr. Ing. h.c. F. Porsche AG. This site is not affiliated with Porsche in any way.
Its only purpose is to provide an online forum for car enthusiasts. All other trademarks are property of their respective owners.
 

Welcome Guest ( Log In | Register )

 
Reply to this topicStart new topic
> Brake "T" and APV
1973914
post Feb 20 2004, 12:03 PM
Post #1


Member
**

Group: Members
Posts: 353
Joined: 16-May 03
From: Washington, DC
Member No.: 703



Does anyone have pics and instructions on replacing the rear prop valve with a "T" fitting? And for the moonshot, instructions and pics for the adjustable prop valve install as well?

Thanks!
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/clap56.gif)
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
mike_the_man
post Feb 20 2004, 01:38 PM
Post #2


I like stuff!
***

Group: Members
Posts: 1,338
Joined: 11-June 03
From: Regina, Saskatchewan, Canada
Member No.: 809



No experience with and adjustable PV, but installing the T is pretty easy. Crawl under your car, and you'll see the PV on the firewall. Unhook the 3 brake lines that are hooked up to it. Use lots of penetrating oil and a crow foot wrench (I think thats what they're called) so you don't round off the edges. Unbolt the valve from the firewall, and install the T. I had to bend the hardlines a bit to get them to bolt up to the T, but that was it.

A pretty simple job. The hardest part is rolling around under the car and getting enough torque on the lines to get them off.

Sorry, no pics. Once you get under there, you'll se what has to be done, though.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
tat2dphreak
post Feb 20 2004, 01:41 PM
Post #3


stoya, stoya, stoya
*****

Group: Benefactors
Posts: 8,797
Joined: 6-June 03
From: Wylie, TX
Member No.: 792
Region Association: Southwest Region



I agreee with mike... it took me about 10-15 minutes to do the job... and a lot of it is just the pain of working in a cramped space... installing the M/C was 10 times harder/more frustrating
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
aufaber
post Feb 20 2004, 01:56 PM
Post #4


Member
**

Group: Members
Posts: 190
Joined: 7-April 03
From: Huntington Beach, CA
Member No.: 525



QUOTE(mike_the_man @ Feb 20 2004, 11:38 AM)
Use lots of penetrating oil and a crow foot wrench (I think thats what they're called) so you don't round off the edges.

It's a line wrench.

Like this:

(IMG:http://www.jcna.com/library/tech/images/tech0004b.jpg)
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
maf914
post Feb 20 2004, 02:43 PM
Post #5


Not a Guru!
****

Group: Members
Posts: 3,049
Joined: 30-April 03
From: Central Florida
Member No.: 632
Region Association: None



Line wrenches can really make a difference if the fittings are really tight. I always got away with standard open end wrenches until working on my Nissan pickup hydraulic clutch cylinders last year. I had some fittings that were getting rounded off. I broke down and bought a set of Craftsman metric line wrenches and they did the trick. You can get a lot more torque without damaging the fittings.

Mike
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
fiid
post Feb 20 2004, 02:47 PM
Post #6


Turbo Megasquirted Subaru Member
****

Group: Members
Posts: 2,827
Joined: 7-April 03
From: San Francisco, CA
Member No.: 530
Region Association: Northern California



(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) Buy some - they are a must-have for old cars with seized nuts. Sears has a nice craftsman set - some other brand's sets don't have the right size for 914 brake lines - so watch out for that.

And watch out for seized nuts - that can hurt. LOL (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol2.gif)

Fiid.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
1973914
post Feb 20 2004, 02:52 PM
Post #7


Member
**

Group: Members
Posts: 353
Joined: 16-May 03
From: Washington, DC
Member No.: 703



Fortunately, my working location has a lift and all the tools you cold ever want to shake a stick at, so that dhould nake the job easier!

Ok, so it seems pretty stragihtforward as far as the tee goes. How about the APV?
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
aufaber
post Feb 20 2004, 03:35 PM
Post #8


Member
**

Group: Members
Posts: 190
Joined: 7-April 03
From: Huntington Beach, CA
Member No.: 525



QUOTE(1973914 @ Feb 20 2004, 12:52 PM)
Fortunately, my working location has a lift and all the tools you cold ever want to shake a stick at, so that dhould nake the job easier!

Ok, so it seems pretty stragihtforward as far as the tee goes. How about the APV?

Open that access panel at teh back of the center tunnel lok in and you will see the brake line. There is a union there in the brake line. Take it out and repalce it will teh APV. You will usualy need some adapters to bo from the 914 line size to the APV and back. Bleed brakes.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
1973914
post Feb 20 2004, 03:48 PM
Post #9


Member
**

Group: Members
Posts: 353
Joined: 16-May 03
From: Washington, DC
Member No.: 703



THANKS! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/clap56.gif)
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
JmuRiz
post Feb 20 2004, 04:12 PM
Post #10


914 Guru
*****

Group: Members
Posts: 5,435
Joined: 30-December 02
From: NoVA
Member No.: 50
Region Association: MidAtlantic Region



When/if I ever get my car over the Kurt's I'll let you have a look at my 'T' and see how Ray installed it. Or if you're in the Sterling area, maybe Sunday I should be around.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
JWest
post Feb 20 2004, 04:41 PM
Post #11


Senior Member
***

Group: Members
Posts: 1,662
Joined: 6-January 03
From: Fort Worth, TX
Member No.: 97
Region Association: None



QUOTE(aufaber @ Feb 20 2004, 03:35 PM)
Open that access panel at teh back of the center tunnel lok in and you will see the brake line. There is a union there in the brake line. Take it out and repalce it will teh APV. You will usualy need some adapters to bo from the 914 line size to the APV and back. Bleed brakes.

If you get my prop valve then it will go right in at that junction (already has the correct fittings).
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post

Reply to this topicStart new topic
1 User(s) are reading this topic (1 Guests and 0 Anonymous Users)
0 Members:

 



- Lo-Fi Version Time is now: 16th June 2024 - 10:44 PM