OT: 2002 VW Jetta question: How do i turn off the headlights? |
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OT: 2002 VW Jetta question: How do i turn off the headlights? |
SirAndy |
Mar 3 2009, 09:21 PM
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#1
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Resident German Group: Admin Posts: 41,675 Joined: 21-January 03 From: Oakland, Kalifornia Member No.: 179 Region Association: Northern California |
So, i've got my 2002 Jetta for a little over a year now and the battery died on me this morning.
No big deal, i thought. Went to my local flaps and got a new one, replaced it, so far so good. Then i went online and low and behold found out that my car seems to have a problem with the battery draining. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif) Now, here's the question: My car came with the "neat" feature of headlights that are always on. As soon as i turn the key, they light up, no matter if night or day. How can i turn my headlights off so i can actually recharge the battery while driving during the day? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) Andy |
r_towle |
Mar 3 2009, 09:24 PM
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#2
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Custom Member Group: Members Posts: 24,588 Joined: 9-January 03 From: Taxachusetts Member No.: 124 Region Association: North East States |
Google
VAGCOM Download that and buy a cable from Ebay. There is alot of info on how to use it on vwvortex.com |
ArtechnikA |
Mar 3 2009, 09:40 PM
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#3
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rich herzog Group: Members Posts: 7,390 Joined: 4-April 03 From: Salted Roads, PA Member No.: 513 Region Association: None |
VAGCOM Download that and buy a cable from Ebay. There is alot of info on how to use it on vwvortex.com And yet more at the real site: Ross-Tech Website It's not 'VAGCOM' any more due to a silly trademark squabble with Volkswagen AG (a major purchaser of the product, BTW...) it's now officially "VCDS." New name, same product. It's a few more $$ but I always suggest supporting Uwe and buying a real cable from Ross-Tech. (I worked there for a few years but that was 3 years ago; I don't get anything from the sales except knowing that people who buy the real deal have far fewer problems...) If you -do- buy a 'clone' interface cable, at least register the software (used to be $99). Real Ross-Tech cables act as a license dongle and include a fully activated license key. DLR coding is frequently found under 'Central Convenience.' But there will be a section on the Ross-Tech site called "Things I can do with my car" organised by year and model. But if the car in question has sloppy handbrake cables like many, the "cheater" way to turn off the DLR is pull up the handbrake a click. |
jonferns |
Mar 3 2009, 10:13 PM
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#4
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 2,081 Joined: 29-March 07 From: New Jersey Member No.: 7,631 Region Association: North East States |
QUOTE But if the car in question has sloppy handbrake cables like many, the "cheater" way to turn off the DLR is pull up the handbrake a click. yep, thats what works on my jetta. |
effutuo101 |
Mar 3 2009, 10:31 PM
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#5
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 2,735 Joined: 10-April 05 From: Lemon Grove Member No.: 3,914 Region Association: Southern California |
It is designed to run with the headlights on.
I would suspect a bad battery as my Jetta was hard on them in San Jose. But, all in all, it was winter in Denver that finally killed my second battery. |
scotty |
Mar 3 2009, 10:45 PM
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#6
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The Fun Never Stops Group: Members Posts: 773 Joined: 20-May 03 From: Portland. Oregon (SW) Member No.: 718 Region Association: None |
VAGCOM Download that and buy a cable from Ebay. There is alot of info on how to use it on vwvortex.com And yet more at the real site: Ross-Tech Website It's not 'VAGCOM' any more due to a silly trademark squabble with Volkswagen AG (a major purchaser of the product, BTW...) it's now officially "VCDS." New name, same product. Not to hijack the thread, but... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/chair.gif) Stupid Question: Would the VAGCOM (Ross-Tech) and cable be a must -have tool for a 00 Jetta 1.8T (just purchased used. runs great)? If the dang thing would work on a Subaru too, I'd be all-in! |
arvcube |
Mar 4 2009, 12:26 AM
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#7
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Member Group: Members Posts: 170 Joined: 25-September 07 From: poway, ca Member No.: 8,147 |
some folks have pulled relay 173 out (DRL). Not sure if 173 is the DRL relay on 2002 models.
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ejm |
Mar 4 2009, 05:34 AM
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#8
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I can see the light at the end of the tunnel Group: Members Posts: 2,693 Joined: 3-February 03 From: Massachusetts Member No.: 224 Region Association: None |
If you think it's a charging problem check the alternator cable. The crimped ends get corrosion inside causing high restistance. Also check the battery fuse box for bad connections and melting. Your car does not have a central electronics module like the later cars so the DRL's cannot be turned off using a scan tool.
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ArtechnikA |
Mar 4 2009, 06:26 AM
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#9
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rich herzog Group: Members Posts: 7,390 Joined: 4-April 03 From: Salted Roads, PA Member No.: 513 Region Association: None |
Would the VAGCOM (Ross-Tech) and cable be a must -have tool for a 00 Jetta 1.8T (just purchased used. runs great)? If the dang thing would work on a Subaru too, I'd be all-in! The Ross-Tech site explains this in much greater detail than I can here, so I won't even try to duplicate it. for VAG cars (loosely, in North America, VW & Audi) VCDS provides 'native mode' diagnostics for every diagnostic-capable Electronic Control Unit (ECU) on the car. For "many" vehicles, it also provides OBD-II diagnostic capability. I have used it with great success on my '97 and '04 Outbacks, and I found even the OBD-II data to be invaluable when performing the engine transplant in the '97 a couple of years ago. It works on my Titan, too. (Some American cars use a different ardware interface that is not compatible. So much for "standards." This is all on the Ross-Tech site.) The real-time data acquisition of even the OBD-I channels and the ability to do trending and logging is extremely useful, IMO. I couldn't imagine trying to do service on a (diagnostic capable) VAG car. The newer cars (I want to say MY 2005 and newer) use the CAN interface protocol and you will need a newer flavor of cable. Uwe went to USB because more and more smaller computers were coming without serial ports; they are now fairly rare. There is no performance advantage with UDB - the car speaks good ol' serial and so there are protocol conversions on both ends of the wire to make USB work. |
SirAndy |
Mar 4 2009, 12:59 PM
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#10
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Resident German Group: Admin Posts: 41,675 Joined: 21-January 03 From: Oakland, Kalifornia Member No.: 179 Region Association: Northern California |
If you think it's a charging problem check the alternator cable. The crimped ends get corrosion inside causing high restistance. Also check the battery fuse box for bad connections and melting. Your car does not have a central electronics module like the later cars so the DRL's cannot be turned off using a scan tool. Mhmmm. I get 14.5V across the terminals when the engine is running. It seems the alternator is good. But i'll check it and the fuses anyways. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif) Andy |
McMark |
Mar 4 2009, 03:11 PM
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#11
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914 Freak! Group: Retired Admin Posts: 20,179 Joined: 13-March 03 From: Grand Rapids, MI Member No.: 419 Region Association: None |
If the current being produced by the alternator is greater than the current being drawn by the system (including headlights), then the battery stays charged. If not, your car will stall out on the side of the road with battery voltage drops too far.
So, something is wrong if you're not getting a full charge on your battery. Corrosion, failing alternator, failing battery to name a few possibilities. DRL is not the problem. But if you don't like them, do the ebrake trick. |
ejm |
Mar 4 2009, 05:20 PM
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#12
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I can see the light at the end of the tunnel Group: Members Posts: 2,693 Joined: 3-February 03 From: Massachusetts Member No.: 224 Region Association: None |
Mhmmm. I get 14.5V across the terminals when the engine is running. It seems the alternator is good. Put a load on the system. Turn on everything and let it idle for a while, then see what the voltage is. Also check to see if any of the charging system connections are getting hot, this would indicate high resistance. |
Cap'n Krusty |
Mar 4 2009, 05:36 PM
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#13
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Cap'n Krusty Group: Members Posts: 10,794 Joined: 24-June 04 From: Santa Maria, CA Member No.: 2,246 Region Association: Central California |
After reading through this thread, I've noticed one GLARING error. Your alternator, as all automotive alternators, IS NOT a battery charger. It's a battery maintainer. You attempt to charge your battery by driving the car around for a while and you run a VERY REAL chance of toasting your alternator. Besides, you'd have to run around for about 24 hours, assuming the alternator lasts that long, to fully charge a discharged battery. A small battery charger costs about a third the price of your alternator, and you can use it on other cars ......................... DRLs don't put any real drain on a electrical system in good working order.
The Cap'n |
MDG |
Mar 4 2009, 05:46 PM
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#14
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Wolf in wolf's clothing. Group: Members Posts: 8,652 Joined: 3-February 09 From: Toronto Member No.: 10,018 Region Association: None |
as always the Cap'n is spot on; DRL's have been mandatory in Canada since 1990 and I never heard of it causing drained batteries. Sounds like something else was the cause.
Hope you figure it out Andy |
pete-stevers |
Mar 4 2009, 06:25 PM
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#15
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saved from fire! Group: Members Posts: 2,642 Joined: 10-October 04 From: Abbotsford,BC, Canada Member No.: 2,914 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
bash em out....and throw it out
i will never own a late modle VW again i had so many recurring electical charging problems with my corrado, and jetta i decided to buy a jeep, my opinions may be somewhat jaded (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) however i do still own a 79 rabbit...which i love dearly |
Cap'n Krusty |
Mar 4 2009, 06:41 PM
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#16
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Cap'n Krusty Group: Members Posts: 10,794 Joined: 24-June 04 From: Santa Maria, CA Member No.: 2,246 Region Association: Central California |
I work on post 2000 (A4) J/G/NBs all the time, often 2 a day. I've sold 2 alternators in 9 years, a host of batteries at the 5-6 year age level, and other than that I've done almost no electrical work on these cars. Oh, lots of low beam bulbs, just like all the newer cars with DRLs, and several aftermarket radio installation repairs because of the Bozo installers at Circuit City and Best Buy who can't or won't read simple technical bulletins.
The Cap'n |
sww914 |
Mar 4 2009, 11:29 PM
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#17
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 2,439 Joined: 4-June 06 Member No.: 6,146 Region Association: None |
I think I'd use a 5 iron.
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highways |
Mar 5 2009, 02:54 AM
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#18
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 613 Joined: 18-June 05 From: Los Angeles, CA Member No.: 4,296 |
Disconnect the low beam power cable, splice it into the horn cable. Charging circuit now has continuity. Horn draws less current then headlights.
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/drunk.gif) |
VaccaRabite |
Mar 5 2009, 07:51 AM
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#19
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En Garde! Group: Admin Posts: 13,465 Joined: 15-December 03 From: Dallastown, PA Member No.: 1,435 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
Disconnect the low beam power cable, splice it into the horn cable. Charging circuit now has continuity. Horn draws less current then headlights. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/drunk.gif) But everyone gets mad at you at night, while you are honking continously to keep your lights on. :-) Zach |
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