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> valve adjustmentment screw gone, i am a danger to myself and others
nycchef
post Jun 22 2009, 11:41 AM
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while searching for the cause of the incessent popping in my carbs, i decided to check my valves. turns out the adjustment screw for the # 4 exhaust is MISSING. i don't know how i did this having adjusted the valves last year before installing the engine. also the nuts on the rest of the rocker assembly are not 13mm , they are larger and possibly american. what the hell do i have here and can i replace the #4 exhaust screw or do i have to pull out the whole assembly.
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SLITS
post Jun 22 2009, 11:49 AM
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You can buy the adjuster screws new, well, at least the 10mm ones.

A quick look at Pelican Parts site revealed this:

Valve Adjustment Screws
043-109-451 Valve Adjustment Screw, 8mm, 8 Per Car, 914 1.7L (1970-73), Each $4.00 [More Info]

022-109-451 Valve Adjustment Screw, 10mm, 8 Per Car, 914 1.8L/2.0L (1973-76), Each $7.95 [More Info]



999-034-005-00-M36 Valve Adjustment Screw Lock Nut, 8mm, 914 1.7, 8 Per Car (1970-73), 914-6, 12 Per Car (1970-72), Each $0.25 Brand: Febi [More Info]


028-109-453-OEM Valve Adjustment Screw Lock Nut, 10mm, 8 Per Car, 914 1.8/2.0 (1973-76), Each $1.25 Brand: Genuine Porsche [More Info]
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nycchef
post Jun 22 2009, 11:53 AM
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QUOTE(SLITS @ Jun 22 2009, 09:49 AM) *

You can buy the adjuster screws new, well, at least the 10mm ones.

A quick look at Pelican Parts site revealed this:

Valve Adjustment Screws
043-109-451 Valve Adjustment Screw, 8mm, 8 Per Car, 914 1.7L (1970-73), Each $4.00 [More Info]

022-109-451 Valve Adjustment Screw, 10mm, 8 Per Car, 914 1.8L/2.0L (1973-76), Each $7.95 [More Info]



999-034-005-00-M36 Valve Adjustment Screw Lock Nut, 8mm, 914 1.7, 8 Per Car (1970-73), 914-6, 12 Per Car (1970-72), Each $0.25 Brand: Febi [More Info]


028-109-453-OEM Valve Adjustment Screw Lock Nut, 10mm, 8 Per Car, 914 1.8/2.0 (1973-76), Each $1.25 Brand: Genuine Porsche [More Info]

i have an entire extra rocker assembly but it has 13mm nuts how do i remove the screw from the assembly it sticks after a few turns and fear i wuill strip it.
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Dr Evil
post Jun 22 2009, 11:56 AM
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Turn it the other way (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)
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SLITS
post Jun 22 2009, 11:59 AM
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Cook something ... sell it .... buy new ones .... and don't overtighten the lock nuts and the will last for a long, long time.
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nycchef
post Jun 22 2009, 12:00 PM
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QUOTE(Dr Evil @ Jun 22 2009, 09:56 AM) *

Turn it the other way (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

funny i have it 3/4 out and it stops wouldn't turning it the other way make it go back in?
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SLITS
post Jun 22 2009, 12:06 PM
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If you look at it, it's a straight screw ... it doesn't really car which way it comes out of the threads other than the screw driver slotted end could be spread (mushroomed).

Clamp it in a vise and apply force .........
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914werke
post Jun 22 2009, 01:30 PM
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Bigger question is ...WHERE IT WENT? If it wasnt tightend down, backed off and found its way into the engine Id be worried.
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Dr Evil
post Jun 22 2009, 01:45 PM
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Not possible for it to get into the engine, the lifter is in the way (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)
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jmill
post Jun 22 2009, 01:48 PM
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It'll be in one of the tubes.
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SLITS
post Jun 22 2009, 01:53 PM
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Naw, it's like socks in a washing machine ... winds up getting sucked into a black hole and spit out on the moon. Next trip, they'll find it.
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Jake Raby
post Jun 22 2009, 02:24 PM
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It CAN get into the engine via the oil return slots for oil in the pushrod tubes..

the larger 10mm adjusters use a 14mm hex, not a 13.

This is why these are TORQUED every time they are tightened.. They will come loose if given the opportunity.
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Dr Evil
post Jun 22 2009, 03:21 PM
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Send me your transmission!
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Cant argue with that.
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tat2dphreak
post Jun 22 2009, 03:26 PM
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QUOTE(Dr Evil @ Jun 22 2009, 02:45 PM) *

Not possible for it to get into the engine, the lifter is in the way (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)



I thought so too, man... either that or it would destroy the lifter too...
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geniusanthony
post Jun 22 2009, 03:41 PM
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I just went and investigated my spare case which was a T4 bus unit, the slots for the oil drain in the lifter bore are 3/4" x 1/4" approx. The lifter is not in the way cause the oil has to get back to the sump somehow, Additionally I stuck a lifter in and sure enough there is room. Both your adjuster and my rocker not could fit through there and I am about to got diggin. Recall there are two circular covers in the sump, perhaps a magnet on a stick will fish em out... good luck with yours chef.
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nycchef
post Jun 22 2009, 03:47 PM
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QUOTE(tat2dphreak @ Jun 22 2009, 01:26 PM) *

QUOTE(Dr Evil @ Jun 22 2009, 02:45 PM) *

Not possible for it to get into the engine, the lifter is in the way (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)



I thought so too, man... either that or it would destroy the lifter too...


found it. hiding behind the other exhaust valve. was lined up pefectly behind it , couldn't see it . got it back in it is a 10mm with a 14mm head. why is that? what is the torgue for it? thanks for the help
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geniusanthony
post Jun 22 2009, 04:10 PM
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ha, just found mine too in the #2 pushrod tube. Way to go man. Now, TORQUE em to spec, I know I will.
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Dr Evil
post Jun 22 2009, 05:29 PM
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Hurry up and fix this so you can screw something else up (IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/tongue.gif)
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nycchef
post Jun 22 2009, 05:40 PM
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QUOTE(Dr Evil @ Jun 22 2009, 03:29 PM) *

Hurry up and fix this so you can screw something else up (IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/tongue.gif)

way ahead of you doc, that problem is gone, car is running rough , the reading on the problem carb is double 7's and no popping, now to time it again, check the dwell again and adjust the carbs...wait for it.... again.' i may drive it for a few weeks just for the hell of it.......then
i think i will post a poll on what the club members want to see me screw up next

front end rebuild
welding the longs
build a 2073
5 lug conversion
air conditioning
get ready to vote, a new disaster is on the horizon
thanks (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif) to all
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Jake Raby
post Jun 22 2009, 06:54 PM
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Like I said, the 10mm units have a 14mm hex, thats nothing new.. Always been that way..

The nuts can make it down the tubes and end up in the sump through the oil return slots, I have found these in the oil sump before upon tear down.

Everything on the engine has a torque...
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