Floor pan rust removal / prevention Options

[skiking]

1975 914 - one thing leads to another!

While working on brakes, I found rust in the recessed area of the driver's floor pan where the pedal braket is bolted down. Apparently moisture has gathered or sat in this low area of the floor pan.

I'm going to use a small metal brush to remove as much rust as possible. I'd appreciate advice on any products I could use to remove the remaining rust, and products I could use to coat the area to prevent further oxidation at this location.

Thanks,
Robbie

[jimkelly]

i believe - most of the rust encapsulating products are a system of a few products used together. one product for area prep, adhesion and then the paint intself - like por15 or rust bullet. a real body shop would probably skip this remedy and get all rust down to bare metal, then etch prime the area, then apply standard paint. i could be wrong : ))

[TROJANMAN]

1975 914 - one thing leads to another!

While working on brakes, I found rust in the recessed area of the driver's floor pan where the pedal braket is bolted down. Apparently moisture has gathered or sat in this low area of the floor pan.

I took a wire brush on the end of my drill and cleaned up perty


Are you rebuilding your pedal cluster while you're at it?

[skiking]

1975 914 - one thing leads to another!

While working on brakes, I found rust in the recessed area of the driver's floor pan where the pedal braket is bolted down. Apparently moisture has gathered or sat in this low area of the floor pan.

I took a wire brush on the end of my drill and cleaned up perty


Are you rebuilding your pedal cluster while you're at it?

I wasn't planning to - is there a reason that I should consider doing that?

Did you use any type of product to coat the area to prevent further rust?

Thanks, Robbie

[TROJANMAN]

If your pedal cluster has not been rebuilt ever, then it probably has plastic bushings in it. At some point those crack and break. The brake fluid causes them to swell. There is a metal replacement kit for $13 or so that will improve all of that. It takes about an hour or so to fix, or you can buy a pretty shiny one from PMB (shea).

I just sprayed it with some rustoleum type product.


Chicka, chicka, yeahhhh.....

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=32578



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[tat2dphreak]

I wasn't planning to - is there a reason that I should consider doing that?

Did you use any type of product to coat the area to prevent further rust?

Thanks, Robbie

I would... rebuild it with the brass bushings to prevent binding... it also saves you from having to pull it later when they do fail.... since you'll have the cluster out anyway.

there's a lot of products such as POR-15, rust bullet, rust encapsulator... I used Ospho, followed by self etching primer and rustoleum rattle can...

[charliew]

Epoxy primer after removing all traces of rust. You can't beat epoxy primer for sealing metal. Followed by a good top coat for protecting the primer. I have been a user of por15 and don't like the shelf life or the problems trying to get another coat of undercoat or paint to adhear to it. The only success I've had with a well adheared top coat over por15 was by also using the tie coat primer that is recommended over por15. That increases the cost considerably.