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> Mustang Billet gas filler door installation
Geezer914
post Oct 26 2009, 10:57 AM
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Has anyone has installed a Mustang / F150 billet fuel door in the front hood to acess the gas filler cap without opening the hood? What needs to be done to get the rim to sit almost flush with the hood? If you just cut a hole is will sit a good 1/4" above the hood.


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poorsche914
post Oct 26 2009, 11:03 AM
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I am also interested in learning what might work best for a project like this.
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif)
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tat2dphreak
post Oct 26 2009, 11:15 AM
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if you want it perfectly flush, you could cut a bigger hole in the front trunk and weld in a piece with a smaller diameter on the bottom side, maybe with a spacer too... it will look like crap if the "hood" is open, but look flush when it's closed. I personally don't think it looks bad sticking up a little like the picture, and I think it's more like 1/8"

my advice would be to get a junk hood, and get the technique down where you can do it once, correctly on your car.
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tracks914
post Oct 26 2009, 11:38 AM
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I was going to do that, but for the 3-4 times a year I fuel up the car, I thought I might just as well pop the hood.
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tat2dphreak
post Oct 26 2009, 11:41 AM
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if it turned out 1/2 as nice as iamchappy's car, it would be worth it, but without a paint job to closely follow, I don't think it would be nearly as good.
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flipb
post Oct 26 2009, 11:44 AM
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I don't mean to (IMG:style_emoticons/default/hijacked.gif) , but...

My "hood" latch can be very hard to pull. Is there maintenance for the pull cable to keep it from seizing up?
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iamchappy
post Oct 26 2009, 01:12 PM
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pics, mine sits up just a little bit but it has a beveled edge, i have been considering getting a aluminum finish
one and flat filing it to match the hoods contour.


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tat2dphreak
post Oct 26 2009, 01:17 PM
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exactly the type of piece I was talking about chappy! yours turned out very well!
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Geezer914
post Oct 26 2009, 01:27 PM
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The way the installation looks, I need to cut the hole slightly smaller than the overall diameter, allowing the bevel edge to sit in the hole. This will allow the lip of the filler door to sit as low as posible to the hood. Thanks for the pictures.
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Elliot Cannon
post Oct 26 2009, 01:47 PM
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QUOTE(flipb @ Oct 26 2009, 10:44 AM) *

I don't mean to (IMG:style_emoticons/default/hijacked.gif) , but...

My "hood" latch can be very hard to pull. Is there maintenance for the pull cable to keep it from seizing up?


Pull the cable out of the housing. Lube it up. Re-install cable. Works fine/lasts a long time.
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steveherman
post Oct 26 2009, 04:13 PM
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QUOTE(iamchappy @ Oct 26 2009, 03:12 PM) *

pics, mine sits up just a little bit but it has a beveled edge, i have been considering getting a aluminum finish
one and flat filling it to match the hoods contour.


i want more info on this.
what parts for the actual filler neck and over flow thingy?
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montoya 73 2.0
post Oct 27 2009, 12:19 PM
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Did you remove the expansion tank for another reason, or was it because of the installation of the door?
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iamchappy
post Oct 27 2009, 03:46 PM
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I just removed it for no other reason than i dont need it.
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Dr Evil
post Nov 20 2009, 01:08 PM
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Bump...I am gonna have Scotty B imitate this on my car. Consider yourself flattered (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
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iamchappy
post Nov 20 2009, 01:33 PM
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After careful inspection of mine there is no hood contour even the circles i cut out of the hood are pretty darn flat, the beveled edge looks fine as is, so outside of painting the underside of the hood area, i guess I'm done.
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rick 918-S
post Nov 20 2009, 01:43 PM
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If you end up with some rock chips and have the hood repainted I would come down and hammer a step or flange in the hood sheet metal for you. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif) This would allow a close to flush fit. You could try a flanging tool but the step would be only about 22 GA deep.

You can hand hammer a step pretty deep if you work at it.


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rtalich
post Nov 20 2009, 01:57 PM
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QUOTE(steveherman @ Oct 26 2009, 02:13 PM) *

QUOTE(iamchappy @ Oct 26 2009, 03:12 PM) *

pics, mine sits up just a little bit but it has a beveled edge, i have been considering getting a aluminum finish
one and flat filling it to match the hoods contour.


i want more info on this.
what parts for the actual filler neck and over flow thingy?



Bumping this question... in order to get rid on the expansion tank.
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Dr Evil
post Nov 20 2009, 01:59 PM
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QUOTE(rick 918-S @ Nov 20 2009, 02:43 PM) *

If you end up with some rock chips and have the hood repainted I would come down and hammer a step or flange in the hood sheet metal for you. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif) This would allow a close to flush fit. You could try a flanging tool but the step would be only about 22 GA deep.

You can hand hammer a step pretty deep if you work at it.


That is how I am gonna have Scotty do it. I want it flush and brushed aluminum (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
Sexy.
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Dr Evil
post Nov 20 2009, 02:14 PM
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Hey Chap, what dia door did you use?
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iamchappy
post Nov 20 2009, 02:14 PM
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QUOTE(rtalich @ Nov 20 2009, 01:57 PM) *

QUOTE(steveherman @ Oct 26 2009, 02:13 PM) *

QUOTE(iamchappy @ Oct 26 2009, 03:12 PM) *

pics, mine sits up just a little bit but it has a beveled edge, i have been considering getting a aluminum finish
one and flat filling it to match the hoods contour.


i want more info on this.
what parts for the actual filler neck and over flow thingy?



Bumping this question... in order to get rid on the expansion tank.


Just remove it, all the filler stuff is separate from it. i still ran a vapor line back to my
air intake otherwise fumes seem to migrate into the interior.


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