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> Looking for 6 conversion info, The wife gave me the green light
jmill
post Nov 10 2009, 09:35 PM
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Out of the blue the wife gave me permission to spend a bunch of cash on the teener. I have the slightest idea what I did right or what she did wrong.

I have to check out the finances but I'd like to do a 6 conversion. I know diddly about the flat 6. I need some help.

My end goal is to basically have a street legal track car. I like the small high reving 6's but like I said I know nadda. The only thing that it has to have is carbs. I'm not into FI and ECU's.

What's my best engine choice? I'm about 1/4 way through the 911 performance handbook trying to educate myself. I can build an engine if thats my best option.

I should also ask the average conversion cost. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)
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ClayPerrine
post Nov 10 2009, 09:40 PM
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If I were doing what you are planning, I would build a short stroke 2.5 or 2.8.

Short stroke 2.5 is 2.7S Pistons and Cylinders with a 2.2 crank.

Short stroke 2.8 is a 3.0 Case (from 76 turbo or eurospec Carrera), and a 2.2 crank.

Build either with some hot cams and you get a bitchin high rev screamer of a motor.

Won't run for shit down low, but when it comes on the cams, look out!!!


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tat2dphreak
post Nov 10 2009, 09:46 PM
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QUOTE
I should also ask the average conversion cost. blink.gif

I think the average cost was somewhere between expensive and divorce... so you have a little play there (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)
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jmill
post Nov 10 2009, 10:10 PM
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QUOTE(tat2dphreak @ Nov 10 2009, 09:46 PM) *

I think the average cost was somewhere between expensive and divorce... so you have a little play there (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)


That's what I'm afraid of. I'm thinking if I go with a smaller 6 with carbs I can limit it to expensive. Turbo and Eurospec might not be an option.
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ClayPerrine
post Nov 10 2009, 10:16 PM
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Actually the rebuild cost is the same for a 2.2 as it is for a 3.2. The costs are the parts to convert the /4 into a /6. You have to buy a bunch of parts to do it. The engine is the smallest cost. BTDT!



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Nick
post Nov 10 2009, 10:16 PM
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I was he middle of doing paint and flairs on my teener when my wife said you should do the six conversion now. I put a 3.0 with headers and 964 cam. It pulled 200HP at the rear wheels. If thats not enough for you nothing will be. Also from what I read this is about the max for a 901. Keeping the 901 keeps your costs down and its a sweeter shifting tranny. I have an SC as a DD w/ a 915 so I feel I can directly compare the two boxes. The other day on a back road trip I got caught up in a corvette club event and had no problem hanging with the z06 guys/ ZR1s left everyone for dead.
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jmill
post Nov 10 2009, 10:28 PM
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QUOTE(ClayPerrine @ Nov 10 2009, 10:16 PM) *

Actually the rebuild cost is the same for a 2.2 as it is for a 3.2. The costs are the parts to convert the /4 into a /6. You have to buy a bunch of parts to do it. The engine is the smallest cost. BTDT!


I know the oil tank is spendy. I was hoping to do the swap for about 10k. If the engine is the cheapest part I'm screwed. I was hoping to have about 6k in the engine and 4k for 4 to 6 parts.
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Mark Henry
post Nov 10 2009, 10:33 PM
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QUOTE(jmill @ Nov 10 2009, 11:28 PM) *

QUOTE(ClayPerrine @ Nov 10 2009, 10:16 PM) *

Actually the rebuild cost is the same for a 2.2 as it is for a 3.2. The costs are the parts to convert the /4 into a /6. You have to buy a bunch of parts to do it. The engine is the smallest cost. BTDT!


I know the oil tank is spendy. I was hoping to do the swap for about 10k. If the engine is the cheapest part I'm screwed. I was hoping to have about 6k in the engine and 4k for 4 to 6 parts.


And how do you plan to stop it? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

Buy a complete 911, then rape it. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sheeplove.gif)
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jmill
post Nov 10 2009, 10:39 PM
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I have already have a 911 front suspension with 3.5 spacing and A calipers.
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PanelBilly
post Nov 10 2009, 10:40 PM
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Can I have you wife?

Really, I'd think twice about a built /4. It could be a lot easier and damn fun when its done
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ClayPerrine
post Nov 10 2009, 10:42 PM
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Parts list.

Oil tank.
Oil filter console.
Oil filter.
Oil filler neck.
Dipstick.
Oil filler cap.
Oil filter adapter rubber boot and snap ring.
Suction line from tank to coupler.
Oil line coupler.
Oil line from coupler to oil cooler.
Engine mounted oil cooler (modified or stock.. stock is more expensive)
Oil scavenge line from engine to tank (stock hard metal line is hard to find. Easy to get the 911 rubber line to replace it.)
Engine mount. (Recommend the Rich Johnson mount.)
Engine tin set.
Early 911 Flywheel, or aftermarket conversion flywheel. (To hook to 901 transmission)
Heat exchangers or headers (headers are cheaper, but no heat for interior)
911 muffler.
Either 40IDA3C Weber carbs and linkage or PMO Carbs and linkage.
914/6 throttle bellcrank, rod and cable bracket. plus 914/6 throttle cable.

You also have to modify the engine wiring harness to hook it to the car, cut the holes for the oil tank, remove the stock 4 cylinder motor mounts, and weld in the six cylinder motor mounts.

And if you are going to do this, you need to upgrade the brakes. I recommend the Boxster brake conversion. Unless you purchase some of the pricey billet hubs, this will more than likely require a 5 lug conversion. That means new wheels.


See where this can add up????


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Mark Henry
post Nov 10 2009, 10:52 PM
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But you can also do the rootworks method and make some of your own tin etc.

I don't 100% agree that they all cost the same to rebuild, example is 2.2/2.4 heads can be had on ebay for $500 fully rebuilt, etc. There are deals if you take your time.

I'm serious about buying a whole 911, major part source and then part out the rest.
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jmill
post Nov 10 2009, 11:03 PM
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I can't do the donor deal. All my garage space is taken up. The HOA doesn't go for parts cars in the driveway.

I don't want to go too rootwerks either. About the only thing I'd consider is an alternate oil tank and mounting location. Is there any savings in it?
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GeorgeRud
post Nov 10 2009, 11:43 PM
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I did my conversion in my garage in Fontana, WI, just west of you about 30 miles. If you are interested, I do have some headers, a Quick-Six mounting bar, and a conversion flywheel (if you are using an engine larger than the 2.0 liter) that I had originally used when I did my conversion. I have since switched to a Rich Johnson mount and heat exchangers, so these were parts taken off of my original conversion.

I do get up there on occasion, so if I can provide any advice, please PM me.
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J P Stein
post Nov 11 2009, 06:24 AM
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I would go buy a book called "Porsche 911 Performance Handbook" by Bruce Anderson, then read it cover to cover.....twice. The motor is the single most expensive piece and can cause the most grief.

Take your time, do your research. With the economy being what it is, shopping is gud. I see a couple motors a week F/S in the Pelican 911 classifieds.....but be ready to jump. Good deals don't last long over there. As I've said elsewhere when I'm "on the hunt", I'll check there 3-4 times a day.

Personally, I think the 3.0L is the best production aircooled motor Porsche ever made.
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jimkelly
post Nov 11 2009, 07:32 AM
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in this economy you should save your money and pop in a 1911 or 2056. you wife will be impressed. maybe put some of those funds to your suspension and brakes - a new dress for your wife, then take her to a nice dinner and threatre.

talk to McMark - http://www.originalcustoms.com/engines.php
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carr914
post Nov 11 2009, 08:33 AM
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I would sell off what you have, combine that with the "Honey" Money, and buy either a Real 914-6 (HotRod or no) or an already completed -6 Conversion. If you do Due Diligence, you can buy alot of car right now. Plus you could drive it Now. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif)

T.C.
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johnnie5
post Nov 11 2009, 09:00 AM
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QUOTE(carr914 @ Nov 11 2009, 06:33 AM) *

I would sell off what you have, combine that with the "Honey" Money, and buy either a Real 914-6 (HotRod or no) or an already completed -6 Conversion. If you do Due Diligence, you can buy alot of car right now. Plus you could drive it Now. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif)

T.C.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) Probably the most sound advice, if you not majorly attached to your existing teener.

My car is a low mile, pretty much rust free example. As much as I would love to flare it and /6 it, I just do not have the heart to 'cut' into it at all. So I dropped in a McMark 2056(125HP, stated), and bolted in 5 lug last December. I am very happy with the motor/car now, but would I rather be driving a 200 HP 914/6? WELL HELL YES!!!
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tat2dphreak
post Nov 11 2009, 09:15 AM
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I gotta jump on board with the big 4 bandwagon... mine is an estimated 140hp -4, with a light fywheel... and whoa nellie is it fun (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

you can do a jake kit for much less than your 10k price-tag, and get about 150-175+ hp. that and 5-lug conversion (under 1000, if you shop around) and you will be pretty happy (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
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Mark Henry
post Nov 11 2009, 09:44 AM
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QUOTE(tat2dphreak @ Nov 11 2009, 10:15 AM) *

I gotta jump on board with the big 4 bandwagon... mine is an estimated 140hp -4, with a light fywheel... and whoa nellie is it fun (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

you can do a jake kit for much less than your 10k price-tag, and get about 150-175+ hp. that and 5-lug conversion (under 1000, if you shop around) and you will be pretty happy (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)


I got the fix'ins for a big T4 engine in the classifieds (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
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