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> Sticky Stuff Removal, removed engine bay sound barrier!
Bruce Allert
post Mar 21 2004, 07:36 AM
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What can I use to take off the sticky stuff & ugly black crap that held the backpad to the firewall? Is there anything that won't get me off (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wacko.gif) If not I'd like to use some good shit & just be done wit it (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

..........b

P.s. NO RUST IN THE HELL HOLE!! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/boldblue.gif) Woohoo (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer.gif)
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Bleyseng
post Mar 21 2004, 08:41 AM
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laquer thinner works pretty well although the fumes are killer. Wear a mask
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TheCabinetmaker
post Mar 21 2004, 08:45 AM
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Bruce, I thought you'd have that 2 litre in by now? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif)

Just kidding, lacquer thinner should do the job.
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John2kx
post Mar 21 2004, 10:17 AM
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Bruce,

This was the worst part of any area on my car to restore. Tried paint remover, sanding, scraping, wire wheels and just about everything else I had in shop to remove factory and PO installed glue. Since my car is black, I would have had to put more effort than I did to end up with a surface finish equal to the exterior.

After spending countless weekends on my back, knees or bent over engine bay, I settled by spraying entire engine bay with one of the truckbed liner type coatings. It turned out OK but not as easy to keep clean as a smooth paint finish would have. The rougher coating I chose seems to collect anything that comes in contact with it. Just another case of "90% prep".

Have you considered sand blasting?

John
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boxstr
post Mar 21 2004, 10:26 AM
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Bruce we could tow dolly the car out to OC and have it media blasted. Ledt me know.
CCLINBLASTERBAY
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rhodyguy
post Mar 21 2004, 10:33 AM
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gumout carb cleaner worked the best for me. let it work a bit and the glue will roll up like snot balls. not a paper mask either. go to home depot and get one rated for vapors with the screw on canisters. you'll need it to paint anyways.

kevin
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McMark
post Mar 21 2004, 10:33 AM
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TA-DA!

1001 uses for Berryman's Brake Cleaner! It'll take you about 4 hours total and will remove the original paint, but it'll be gone and you can then repaint it. Make sure your garage door is open. Fumes aren't as bad a laquer thinner though. Note: Berrymans!

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jd74914
post Mar 21 2004, 10:49 AM
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You could always try the "poorman's method."

Worked fine for me. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/happy11.gif)


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jd74914
post Mar 21 2004, 10:51 AM
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Oops. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/happy11.gif)

Forgot the other important piece . . .


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TheCabinetmaker
post Mar 21 2004, 11:01 AM
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Uh, those are "wood" chisels. I just pulled a 1.7 last week that had the worst oil leak ever. The blanket had been removed a few years ago and there was about a half inch of oil builup on the fire wall. A good stiff 1 1/2" putty knife with the corners rounded off (keeps ya from digging into the metal) worked like a champ. the glue had been soften by the oil and came right off. So, all you need is a good oil leak (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif)
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Qarl
post Mar 21 2004, 11:06 AM
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My wife says there is something called unisolve, that is skin-safe that dissolves adhesives.... (designed to remove bandage and tape residue).

Maybe that would work?
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jd74914
post Mar 21 2004, 11:08 AM
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QUOTE
Uh, those are "wood" chisels.


Yeah, I know it. (I build cabinets in my spare time). Though, the chisel I used was dull as a hoe and so screwed up I figured it wasn't worth trying to fix it for the 1000th time.

QUOTE
A good stiff 1 1/2" putty knife with the corners rounded off (keeps ya from digging into the metal) worked like a champ.


You only need to be gentle to avoid killing the metal (as chisels slice through it like butter) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)


BTW I didn't actually take a pic of my tools (these are from google images)
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TheCabinetmaker
post Mar 21 2004, 11:10 AM
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Cool, I build them for a living, and fix 914's in my spare time (IMG:style_emoticons/default/rolleyes.gif)
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jd74914
post Mar 21 2004, 12:21 PM
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(IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif) Way to be (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
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McMark
post Mar 21 2004, 01:06 PM
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Wood chisels and heat work great for removing undercoating from the wheel wells and under the car.
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Jenny
post Mar 21 2004, 01:35 PM
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I second the brake cleaner method. From Brad's school of automotive. Works great. Have a fan nearby circulating air though. I remember getting pretty loopy working in the engine bays. I removed that shit from both the orange and silver cars.

Jen
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Bruce Allert
post Mar 21 2004, 04:22 PM
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Everyone had great suggestions (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif) Thanks!
Curt, I know I should'a had it back in by now but, I'm sure you know, as you're working on one thing on the car, another catches your eye & it's off on a different tangent until you get re-directed back to what you originally started! I got the tranny off the 1.7 yesterday & cleaned it up. Raised the car another 4 or 5 inches, pulled the blanket off the back then removed the motor mounts off the 1.7 to use them on the 2.0 since thay are almost brand new. Must have a wee bit of Attention Defficet going on (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif) Wanted to stay home this morning & put the tranny on the 2.0 but my boss called & said they needed a 4th for a scramble... (& if I didn't attend & was fired)! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/rolleyes.gif) So, after 18 holes & a couple beers...........

Craig, thanks for the offer but I don't really wanna go that far since I have the car up on blocks. After I see if this 2.0 runs then I will consider taking it back out & do a total clean up of that part of the car & engine.

Thanks again for everyones help (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

........b
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TheCabinetmaker
post Mar 21 2004, 04:34 PM
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See? You're already talking about pulling it out again.
The more ya do it the easier it gets. My son in law have done 5 together now. Out and back in. We pulled one two weeks ago in 25 minutes. He did the top while I was underneath.
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bernbomb914
post Mar 21 2004, 05:03 PM
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There is a foil insulation pad listed on ebay which will cover that mess and give you some sound deadening. It is cut to fit perfectly.

Bernie
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Bruce Allert
post Mar 21 2004, 06:56 PM
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QUOTE(vsg914 @ Mar 21 2004, 03:34 PM)
See? You're already talking about pulling it out again.
The more ya do it the easier it gets.

Ya, Ya... I'm already looking forward to the install & another removal (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer.gif) When you have the moves down pat & the way you lift the car it really ain't that bad. I think I just might buy an RV lift like the one I borrowed from JP. I also want to get a "C" or "I" beam that will catch under the control arms. The beam would rest on the RV jack. With the wide table area of the RV jack (2'x2') it makes a sturdy way to lift the rearend.

Bernie, I was thinking along those lines just so I wouldn't have to scrape all that crap (IMG:style_emoticons/default/rolleyes.gif) It would seem to add light or brightness to the bay too. Gotta check it out.

.....b
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