High idle |
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High idle |
oldschool |
Apr 24 2010, 11:44 PM
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#1
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 3,362 Joined: 29-October 08 From: P-town Member No.: 9,705 Region Association: Southern California |
So here it is 1973 1.7 D-injection setting for a few years (I know I already said this before) anyways starts right up, after it warms up the idle slows down, right where I think it should be, but as soon as I hit the gas it starts to idle high,
1. all the line (vacuum) seem to be Ok the return spring is working fine, how do I adjust the idle? |
blazerchad |
Apr 25 2010, 10:14 PM
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#2
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Newbie Group: Members Posts: 35 Joined: 16-August 09 From: portland oregon Member No.: 10,684 Region Association: None |
a few of the things i found in my idle mystery...
first, forget setting the idle... make sure your pedal board is tight and mounted, take the accel pedal out, moving free and smooth (spray with penatrating oil) then inspect your center tube between the driver and passenger side, clutch and accel cable (my clutch tube was free and the pedal board was loose and mounted wrong). I then took off the air system, tore out the tps assembly, cleaned and adjusted the accel cable with a helper engaging and dis-engaging the accel pedal full to rest. This got me close and my gas pedal snapping to a rest fully and moving your tps switch to the idle position. The spring is a good start, but if your accel cable is dry and your gas pedal is stiff, there is no way it pulls it to a resting (idle) position... Then I adjusted idle (hook up all the vac lines and make sure they are in good shape).. |
oldschool |
Apr 26 2010, 02:11 AM
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#3
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 3,362 Joined: 29-October 08 From: P-town Member No.: 9,705 Region Association: Southern California |
a few of the things i found in my idle mystery... first, forget setting the idle... make sure your pedal board is tight and mounted, take the accel pedal out, moving free and smooth (spray with penatrating oil) then inspect your center tube between the driver and passenger side, clutch and accel cable (my clutch tube was free and the pedal board was loose and mounted wrong). I then took off the air system, tore out the tps assembly, cleaned and adjusted the accel cable with a helper engaging and dis-engaging the accel pedal full to rest. This got me close and my gas pedal snapping to a rest fully and moving your tps switch to the idle position. The spring is a good start, but if your accel cable is dry and your gas pedal is stiff, there is no way it pulls it to a resting (idle) position... Then I adjusted idle (hook up all the vac lines and make sure they are in good shape).. thanks man, where is the idle screw? is it the one right at the right side of the body? tps ? |
Dave_Darling |
Apr 26 2010, 10:31 AM
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#4
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914 Idiot Group: Members Posts: 14,991 Joined: 9-January 03 From: Silicon Valley / Kailua-Kona Member No.: 121 Region Association: Northern California |
TPS == Throttle Position Switch. The electrical thing that's on the throttle body.
The idle screw is on the side of the throttle body. On the left side of the 2.0's, not sure about the 1.8 or 1.7 throttle body. --DD |
oldschool |
Apr 26 2010, 11:06 AM
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#5
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 3,362 Joined: 29-October 08 From: P-town Member No.: 9,705 Region Association: Southern California |
TPS == Throttle Position Switch. The electrical thing that's on the throttle body. The idle screw is on the side of the throttle body. On the left side of the 2.0's, not sure about the 1.8 or 1.7 throttle body. --DD So Dave how do I know if the tps is working right or out of adjustment ? |
tradisrad |
Apr 26 2010, 11:14 AM
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#6
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 985 Joined: 11-September 06 From: San Mateo, CA Member No.: 6,815 Region Association: Northern California |
http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/9...brate_17-18.jpg
Dont forget to check for vacuum leaks around the intake manifolds where they connect to the heads and plenum. |
oldschool |
Apr 26 2010, 11:31 AM
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#7
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 3,362 Joined: 29-October 08 From: P-town Member No.: 9,705 Region Association: Southern California |
http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/9...brate_17-18.jpg Dont forget to check for vacuum leaks around the intake manifolds where they connect to the heads and plenum. Very cool man thanks, This is the first time I'm working on my ride on my own, the guy that work on my car before, Sold his 914 website and is to busy to call back (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) |
Rand |
Apr 26 2010, 11:40 AM
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#8
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Cross Member Group: Members Posts: 7,409 Joined: 8-February 05 From: OR Member No.: 3,573 Region Association: None |
If the idle slows to normal when it warms up, it's not as likely to be a vacuum leak. If the idle is correct, and only goes up after you hit the gas, that's a red flag to me that you should not mess with any idle adjustments until you are 110% sure nothing is mechanically sticking. When it's fast, go to the throttle body and see if you can rotate the butterfly back to square manually.
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oldschool |
Apr 26 2010, 12:05 PM
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#9
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 3,362 Joined: 29-October 08 From: P-town Member No.: 9,705 Region Association: Southern California |
If the idle slows to normal when it warms up, it's not as likely to be a vacuum leak. If the idle is correct, and only goes up after you hit the gas, that's a red flag to me that you should not mess with any idle adjustments until you are 110% sure nothing is mechanically sticking. When it's fast, go to the throttle body and see if you can rotate the butterfly back to square manually. yeah that's what I thought, but the butterfly does close. One more thing when i hit the throttle it sure takes its time to go back to idle? is that normal? |
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