F^&*^&*^ing exhaust head studs- Distributor ?, My distributor is off 1/4 turn. How to fix? Options

[JRust]

Okay I officially pulled an dipshit move today. I was putting my drivetrain all together to be ready to install in my LE. All was going great as I had Mr Kona down helping me today. We got the transmission mounted. Put on the passenger side SS (bolted in place by Brian) & all was great. We change spots & I do the drivers side. I've got all the nuts on & am bolting into place. I have my torque wrench on there & am tightening away. It is was to big for the job but I figure all is well. Well I am a dipshit as I overtightened one & snaped the bolt (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) . I do have some nice stud pullers sowhile pissed for being an idiot. I figure I can get it out without to much trouble.

Hell no I can't. Even after some heat my stud snaps again at the head. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) . I then try to get under there & drill a hole to use an extractor. My extractor breaks in the hole I drilled. SO now I have to drill that out too. I am so frustrated & it's my own damn fault. I'm going to head to harbor freight & pick up a new tap & dye set.

Any ideas on how to not screw this up any worse (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)

[r_towle]

get left handed cobalt drill bits or carbide drill bits...get a left handed set...

As you drill, you end up loosening the stud.

Why do you think Len hates used heads...
Rich

[McMark]

Bad news. The extractor is VERY hard will eat your drill bits and laugh at you, or worse, will FORCE your drill bits off center and make you drill into the head meat. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)

It REALLY REALLY sucks, but I'd stop. Take a couple days off, then pull the motor and get the head off and let someone else deal with it. You're problem CAN get a lot worse.

I wish I could tell you there's a quick fix, but there's not and you'll be much better off by taking the longer route on this.

[JRust]

I didn't know they made drill bits left handed (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif) . I will try to find some. Would home depot carry that?

On the extractor I will see. I am taking a break now & was feeling better. Until Macmark told me I am going to have to pull my head (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) . I am going to give drilling it out a try tommorow. The extractor I had I think was kind of a cheap old thing. So hopefully that is why it broke & I will be able to get it out. Whatever I do will be slow & methidical. These are rebuilt heads & I'll be damned if I am going to screw them up (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)

I'm over bein pissed as there's not much I can do about it now. Other than not make it any worse.

[r_towle]

home depot wont carry left handed bits.

McMaster will.

First, find a way with picks to try and loosen the extractor and get it out of the way.

Rich

[VaccaRabite]

Pull the head. Let someone one that can put it in a jig and hit it will his mill drill out the bolt and extractor.

If you go off center, you are going to be into it for $$$, as you will have to get the head welded and rebuilt.

Zach

[JRust]

McMark was right. The extractor is some hard stuff. Drill bit wouldn't touch it. Picks aren't going to get it out either. I think if I had the extractor out I could get it. Big shocker that using the extractor wasn't my smartest move. Especially considering how the stud wouldn't budge with my stud puller. I shouldn't have even tried the damn extractor (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) . So yes off comes the head. It does suck to be sure. I guess it's a learning experience though right (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)

Okay well I need to read up on pulling the head. I should have learned this by now. If I have any prayer of getting it back soon I need to get it pulled & to a machine shop monday. I'll read up in my haynes but if you want to give me the rundown on taking it off thats great.

[underthetire]

Only 3 ways to get that extractor out now.
A dremel with a small grinding bit and a lot of time.
a carbide drill on a mill, don't try to use carbide with a hand drill, you'll be sorry.
A EDM (electrical discharge machine) Some special shops do tap extraction ( same material) call around for precision machine shops.

They used to sell TAP OUT witch you basically made a dam with some putty around the broken tap/extractor and filled the inside with a special acid. The acid didn't touch aluminum, just steel. This takes several days.

Good luck man, I drilled two broken ones out about a month ago.

[underthetire]

here is some info, guess its just nitric acid
http://yarchive.net/metal/tap_remove.html

It actually does work. Used this method for years before we had EDM's

[MrKona]

Hey Jamie,

On my way home today, I was thinking, "He's gonna have to pull the head..."

You're going to have to remove the tin pieces that screw into that head, and of course, all the pieces that screw onto the pieces that screw onto the head..

After that, you need to remove the rockers, pushrods (keep them together for reassembly) pushrod tubes, and under-the-head tin (that tin also screws onto the heads). Then the stud nuts that hold the heads on. Then the head should pull right off.

- Bryan

[JRust]

Hey Jamie,

On my way home today, I was thinking, "He's gonna have to pull the head..."

You're going to have to remove the tin pieces that screw into that head, and of course, all the pieces that screw onto the pieces that screw onto the head..

After that, you need to remove the rockers, pushrods (keep them together for reassembly) pushrod tubes, and under-the-head tin (that tin also screws onto the heads). Then the stud nuts that hold the heads on. Then the head should pull right off.

- Bryan

I don't have to do anything with the valves right

[MrKona]

Hey Jamie,

On my way home today, I was thinking, "He's gonna have to pull the head..."

You're going to have to remove the tin pieces that screw into that head, and of course, all the pieces that screw onto the pieces that screw onto the head..

After that, you need to remove the rockers, pushrods (keep them together for reassembly) pushrod tubes, and under-the-head tin (that tin also screws onto the heads). Then the stud nuts that hold the heads on. Then the head should pull right off.

- Bryan

I don't have to do anything with the valves right

Nope.

[JRust]

Piece of cake then. I'll pull it tommorow. Then find a place machine shop on monday when I go to work. Hopefully they wont ding me to badly for the work (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)
Ah crap I need to order some more parts now. Since it hasn't been run since it's been rebuilt. Will I need to replace the copper seal/seat between the heads & piston jugs? Then I need a new valve cover gasket (I know as it ripped coming off), Push rod tube seals. Anything else?

[aircooledtechguy]

I feel your pain. . .

Taps are tough, but ONLY because of their heat treatment. You can anneal the tap by hitting it with a torch so it glows and allowing it to cool on its own. Then you can drill right through them like any other steel.

I've done this several times over the years with other bolts on cars. Once you hit it with a torch so it glows, you can drill right through them. 'Course this will be a LOT easier with the head off and on a bench. . .

Good Luck!!

[McMark]

1. Pull the motor.
2. Remove the intake runner on that side.
3. Remove the engine tin on that side (top piece, and the front and rear pieces, you'll need to remove the fan housing)
4. Take off the valve cover.
5. Remove the four nuts that hold on the rockers.
6. Remove the pushrods.
7. Remove the pushrod tubes.
8. Remove the under cylinder tin.
9. Take off the head nuts.
10. Slide the head off.

For reassembly, choose if you want to attempt to apply sealant to the surface between the cylinders and the block. This area could leak later, but it's not too common of a leak point, so it's not a huge risk. If you're going to do it, pull the cylinders and clean up any old sealant and do it right.

You'll need new sealing gaskets if you're using those (I have some I can send you). Install those and slide the head into place. Apply some sealant to the lower head washers and head nuts. Torque the head nuts to 13 ft/lbs, then to 24 ft/lbs (check Haynes for the pattern).

Install the under cylinder tin.
Install the pushrod tubes.
Install the pushrods.
Install the rockers and the pushrod retaining wire.
Adjust the valves.
Install the valve cover.
Install the engine tin.
Install the fuel injection.
Install the motor.
Install the exhaust. (Using a 1/4" socket wrench, never 3/8") (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

Best of luck. You'll be okay, and so will your motor. Work slow, don't worry about WCR or any other deadline. If you make it, it was meant to be. If you don't, you can still come and I'll buy you a BIG beer. :beer:

[WFG]

Same thing happened to me in the 80s i used masonary drill bits with the flat carbide end drill slow will take time but will work

[JRust]

1. Pull the motor.
2. Remove the intake runner on that side.
3. Remove the engine tin on that side (top piece, and the front and rear pieces, you'll need to remove the fan housing)
4. Take off the valve cover.
5. Remove the four nuts that hold on the rockers.
6. Remove the pushrods.
7. Remove the pushrod tubes.
8. Remove the under cylinder tin.
9. Take off the head nuts.
10. Slide the head off.

For reassembly, choose if you want to attempt to apply sealant to the surface between the cylinders and the block. This area could leak later, but it's not too common of a leak point, so it's not a huge risk. If you're going to do it, pull the cylinders and clean up any old sealant and do it right.

You'll need new sealing gaskets if you're using those (I have some I can send you). Install those and slide the head into place. Apply some sealant to the lower head washers and head nuts. Torque the head nuts to 13 ft/lbs, then to 24 ft/lbs (check Haynes for the pattern).

Install the under cylinder tin.
Install the pushrod tubes.
Install the pushrods.
Install the rockers and the pushrod retaining wire.
Adjust the valves.
Install the valve cover.
Install the engine tin.
Install the fuel injection.
Install the motor.
Install the exhaust. (Using a 1/4" socket wrench, never 3/8") (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

Best of luck. You'll be okay, and so will your motor. Work slow, don't worry about WCR or any other deadline. If you make it, it was meant to be. If you don't, you can still come and I'll buy you a BIG beer. :beer:

If It doesn't make WCR oh well. I'd like to be in it & obviously take it on the drives. Not critical to me having a good time. Although it would help (IMG:style_emoticons/default/rolleyes.gif)

Thanks for the nicely written breakdown. I did try heating the stud & was able to drill into it fine before I tried the extractor. Just wasn't meant to be (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smoke.gif)

I'll get it to a machine shop & see how it goes. I still have enough time to get everything together if I get it back quickly. If I can't find a place that can do it right away is what worries me (IMG:style_emoticons/default/hissyfit.gif) . If I can't get a place to do it by midweek I'll be hosed. Even then I may just put another motor in to come (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)

[sww914]

There is another way.
I've done it 100 times on various broken studs.

With the head off you can put an 8mm nut on top of the broken stud and mig weld the nut to the broken stud, through the hole and fill the nut up all the way to the top.
Hit it with an impact gun to unscrew the broken stud. Most likely it will just extract the broken easy-out so weld another nut on. It will probably break off so do it again. It will probably break off again so do it again. It might take 10 tries. Or 20. Each time the heat expands the stud and crushes the corrosion more than the last time, getting you closer to your goal.
Even 30 8mm nuts are cheaper than a trip to the machine shop and cheaper than ruining your head with a drill bit drifting off to the side.
Good thing steel mig welds won't stick to your aluminum head, isn't it?

This process is so quick and easy if the part isn't upside down that I don't usually charge my customers to extract the broken fastener unless it's really bad.

[TheCabinetmaker]

Pushrods must be reinstalled exactly like they come out.

[McMark]

Steve's got a good technique there.