The small block thread, Zach rebuilds a 350 (maybe 383 one day soon) Options

[VaccaRabite]

This thread will document my teardown and rebuild of a Chevy 350 small block engine.

This may be old hat to many of you, but I have never done it before and figured some of you may be interested as well, especially if you are considering putting one of these into your 914.

The engine that I am starting with is a 4 bolt main block truck engine out of a 1985 Chevy K20 3/4 ton pickup. I am not yet sure what the engine will be when I am done with it. I want to build a 383 stroker engine. But, the parts for this engine are so nice that I may stick with stock displacement and just go with better heads and intake. The heads and intake have all the smog stuff on them, so they are not going to be used.

Enough with words. Time for pictures.

First, lay out your tools on the rear trunk of your old Porsche. Only the finest work jacket will do to keep the paint scratches to a minimum.
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For tear down you need 4 wrench sizes (all inch sizes). 3/8, 7/16, 9/16, and 5/8th. You will want to have these sizes in deep sockets and wrenches. You will want to have at least one breaker bar to break torque on most of the 9/16 and 5/8 bolts. Also a rubber hammer, pry bar, and scraper will be needed.

The beast:
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This is the engine that I am going to be tearing down. It was pulled out of the donor truck Dec 10th and mounted on the engine stand the next day. Don't even think of trying to do this without an engine stand. This 1000 pound stand only cost $50, and it is money well spent. Fair bet my 914 has a little bit of engine envy right now....

Valve covers first.
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Valve covers need to come off first, as they impinge removing the intake. One off in the picture above. You need a 7/16 deep socket to take off the nuts that hold the valve covers on. Lots of sealant was used here.

Valve covers, carb and intake are off.
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Pretty easy so far. Time to go for the heads. The rods going into the block are all the push rods. They come up from the cam and operate the valves. The orange ball of fire is my heater. 70K BTU of warmth to stave off the cold, even with the garage door open. I even had to take off my warm overalls, as I started sweating with the heater and the overalls both. The intake was attached with 9/16th bolts. There was considerable sealant used, and getting the intake off was difficult. I ended up using a pry bar to get it started, and hold it up enough to get my fingers in there to pull the rest off.

First head is off.
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This is the point where I had to do some soul searching. It was pristine! The cylinder walls look like they were just done. There was no carbon ring at the top of the cylinders, which is common for an engine with miles on it. The PO of the donor truck said the engine had been rebuilt 4000 miles ago. But given the condition of the truck and the electrical system (the spark plugs were rusted and fell apart on removal) I had my doubts. Now, though... it took a fair deal of will power to not just button the engine back up again and put new heads and intakes on it. But, I am a stubborn man at times... I am going to rebuild this engine, darn it! This is how I learn. The heads bolts were 5/8s and were heavily torqued. I needed a breaker bar to get them started.

With the heads off I took off the pulley and damper. The damper was a PAIN to get off. Lots of prying with the pry bar all over to keep it from cocking. One of those things where I probably should have used a puller, but I did not have one the right size or the desire to go and get one.

to be continued....

[VaccaRabite]

Heads are off, and it’s time to remove the oil pan. Remember to drain the oil BEFORE turning the block upside down!
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When the block is turned over, all the coolant still in the block will drain out. This took me by surprise...
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By the time I got a catch pan under the block, it was a bit late.... Live and learn. Lesson, just because the block is on your stand and you think it’s fully drained - it isn't.
The oil pan was held on by 3/8 nuts (I think it may have been 7/16...) with 9/16 bolts at the ends. Once the bolts are free, and the keepers removed, it still took a few good whacks with the rubber mallet to get the pan to come loose.

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Oil pan is off. Now you can see the oil pump, crank assembly, and the tip of the timing chain.

Time to start removing pistons.
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In this picture you can see what makes a "4 bolt main" block. On most Chevy small blocks the crank is held in place with 2 bolts on the keepers. As you can see, these keepers have 4 bolts each. Looking down into the bore you can see the honing in the cylinder. Rods were fixed with 9/16 nuts, and I needed a breaker bar to get them loose.

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8 pistons and rods ready to be moved upstairs for cleaning and possible re-use.

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Crank is now out. They call these engines "mouse motors." There is very little small about them. My size tens for reference. The crank may get reused, or it may not. One of the bearings was very worn, which was troubling. Only one of the bearings was worn, the rest looked great. But one of them was through all the babbit material and almost looked like it had not been changed when the engine was rebuilt. Or it could mean that the crank is bent slightly - which can happen.

more coming!

[VaccaRabite]

The cam is still in the block. I have not yet figured out how to remove it. Pretty sure I need to pull the freeze plug at the back of the engine and slide out the cam. But aside from that and a few bits and bobs, the engine is now totally torn down, and I am ready to start cleaning the block.
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So, what’s next?
Well, obviously, the cam needs to come out. However that works.
Then I am going to pull all the freeze plugs and start cleaning out the galleries. Oil and sludge build up in the galleries and that can hurt the engine over time. CLEAN CLEAN CLEAN.

Also, I am going to do some dressing on the block. Open up some oil drain holes, take off rough edges, and do other things to improve the qualities of the block. Then the block will go to my local machinist. I need to find out what size everything is, and let him run it through the hot tank. I am pretty sure the cylinders were cut to 30 over, and I do not think that they will need to be recut. I do want to see if the crank needs to be standard or over. That will affect bearings and what parts I get. I'll do the hone job when it gets back. Then clean it some more, and paint it.

So thats all I have for today. I'll update the thread as more gets done.
I have to say, it is very tempting to put this into the 914.... Especially if I build the 383.

Zach

[scotty b]

350's are junk. Get a 440 for that p.o.s. A 440 keeps it in the family too istead of some Chevy bastard. Kinda like when your hot cousin marries that goofball computer geek down the street instead of you. 350's are easy enough any redneck can GET ER DUUNNNNN (IMG:style_emoticons/default/stirthepot.gif)

Cam comes out easy enough, straight through the front of the block. Just make certain you don't nick the bores when removing/installing. Take it easy, and support it as best as you can. Bolt the gear back on to hold on to and support it as it passes through

[hot_shoe914]

I sure hope you had the factory spec Folgers coffee can to put all of your nuts and bolts in. Let me know when you get ready to install your cam bearings, I will tell you the secret to awesome oil pressure. Also, if the heads you have are in good shape, might wat to shave off a few thousandths. Besure to have them magnafluxedto make sure there are no cracks. I also recommend double tension springs with a shim to make that valve pop quicker. Gee, I used to build about ten of these a day back about 30 years ago. A small block 400 would be a nice motor to build also. Good luck with everything.


Shoe

[914.SBC]

I sure hope you had the factory spec Folgers coffee can to put all of your nuts and bolts in. Let me know when you get ready to install your cam bearings, I will tell you the secret to awesome oil pressure. Also, if the heads you have are in good shape, might wat to shave off a few thousandths. Besure to have them magnafluxedto make sure there are no cracks. I also recommend double tension springs with a shim to make that valve pop quicker. Gee, I used to build about ten of these a day back about 30 years ago. A small block 400 would be a nice motor to build also. Good luck with everything.


Shoe

I can't wait to see that engine installed. Keep the pics coming.

[Gint]

A stock 350 bottom end rebuild with a decent cam and some heads that flow would be a nice motor.

What are you going to put it in when it's done?

[messix]

get a long bolt to thread into the cam and pull it out the front. the long bolt gives you good leverage to handle the cam as it comes out.

did you see the small plug on both sides of the block at the bottom of the block.... that drains the coolant out.

find or buy a set of votec heads. they make great power! brand new from gm or other suppliers cost less than a refub on old heads! check it out form jegs or summit!

if the crank needs turning you could prolly get a stroker kit for about the same cost as turning the crank and buying all the bearings. [a 383 stroker would be great for that truck]

pick a good combo cam and intake kit from edlebrock, you'd be happy you did.

use brass for the freeze plugs and oil galley plugs.

get the premium gaskets that have the inserts for the oil pan and valve covers and such, it limits how much "crush" you can tighten down on the gaskets and makes leaks less prone.

oh !!! and those "keepers" are called "main caps" DO NOT MIX THOSE UP! keep them in order by number and how they came off [front to back in the saddle they came out of]. if you mixed them up you'll be paying for a line bore.

same with the rod caps keep them together and exact as they came off!

pm me with any questions if you need to. i think i had a sbc rod for a rattle in the crib as a baby!

[VaccaRabite]

did you see the small plug on both sides of the block at the bottom of the block.... that drains the coolant out.

ah, so thats what those are. Yeah, they are still capped.

find or buy a set of votec heads. they make great power! brand new from gm or other suppliers cost less than a refub on old heads! check it out form jegs or summit!

if the crank needs turning you could prolly get a stroker kit for about the same cost as turning the crank and buying all the bearings. [a 383 stroker would be great for that truck]

Something need turning somewhere. The main bearing was trashed. Someone in 715 land said it could be a bad rod, but all the rod bearings looked good.

oh !!! and those "keepers" are called "main caps" DO NOT MIX THOSE UP! keep them in order by number and how they came off [front to back in the saddle they came out of]. if you mixed them up you'll be paying for a line bore.

same with the rod caps keep them together and exact as they came off!

DERP! Guess I will be line boring. I think I know how the main caps came off, but I don't know I know how they came off. An expensive lesson. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)

The rod caps are ont he correct cylinders, but I did not not them end for end, so they are probably wrong too. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)

If I go to a 383, the rods will be replaced anyhow. And that is looking more and more likely.

What are you going to put it in when it is done?

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That restoration thread is in the sandbox. But this thread could have 914 application so I am putting it here.
Zach

[scotty b]

Before you go assuming you ned a line bore, clean and check the caps, if the engine was rebuilt, the rebuilder may have stamped them with the correct placement

[hot_shoe914]

Before you go assuming you ned a line bore, clean and check the caps, if the engine was rebuilt, the rebuilder may have stamped them with the correct placement

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[VaccaRabite]

Lets talk intake and cam.
I would like this engine to make power lower in the rev range. It will probably never see 6000 rpm, and hopefully won't see 5000.

goal is to be able to spend most of its time under 3K.

Any hints on what I want to be looking at?
Zach

[ArtechnikA]

Lets talk intake and cam.
I would like this engine to make power lower in the rev range. It will probably never see 6000 rpm, and hopefully won't see 5000.

goal is to be able to spend most of its time under 3K.

Any hints on what I want to be looking at?

The Summit Racing catalog section for RV's and towing.

The 5,6 in my Titan spends most of its time under 2000 rpm - and most of that between 1000 and 1500. But it revs freely to its 6500 rpm redline and yes, I've had it there a few times (stupid PA "onramps" involving highway-speed merging from a stopsign...)

It is, however, a 4-valve engine...

[Andyrew]

I have an RV cam in my engine, but its one of the higher rpm RV cams. With the right fuel management they have bucket loads of tq...

[andys]

After some experience with the GEN III Chevy motors I'm pretty well convinced that going back to GEN I SBC's is well, going backwards. Unless there's a personal attachment to the old school SBC or perhaps a period correct reason to build one up, the GEN III or later (LSx) motors are a considerable step forward. For the money you're going to spend on that 350 build, you could buy a low mileage LQ9 truck motor pull-out for around $1500. 6.0L 345 HP, 380 ft-lb, 10:1 aluminum heads, all the accessories, with modern EFI and they'd probably throw in the electronic throttle pedal and module. Driveability will be way better, as will your MPG. And if it's horsepower you want, these motors really respond to cam swaps and PCM re-programming.

Of course if you're doing the 350 build for your own sake, then so be it. I'll monitor your progress with interest.

Andys

[messix]

the 383 build reuses the rods.

a 383 kit has the 3.75 crank and pistons that have the correct wrist pin hight for the 3.75 crank.

i doubt the p/o line bored that block, most low preformance rebuilds don't line bore.

the vortec heads will make excelent torque with an rv cam.
dollar-dollar these heads will be the best investment for power over the old heads. [read up on them] also these heads take a different intake mounting design [bolt holes are different] so make your mind up on these early before buying a intake.

shorter advertized duration with some good lift [450-475] will do good.


the ls motors are awesome but you loose the k.i.s.s for a truck like that. and there is no way you could be concerned with fuel economy with that truck!

a mild 383 built right will have big block type torque and great power, expect about 400-450 ft lbs from 2500 -3500rpm.

[ArtechnikA]

a mild 383 built right will have big block type torque and great power, expect about 400-450 ft lbs from 2500 -3500rpm.

...but too much can be as bad as too little.
More torque than the driveline is built for leads to the path of more expensive upgrades. Bigger transmission - bigger cooling to reject the additional heat of more power and driveline. Bigger driveshaft. Bigger 3rd member.

The weakest link is always - something. I prefer it be the engine making less power than the driveline can handle. This doesn't leave you parked on the shoulder of the big hill during a tow wondering how you're going to replace the rear axle or driveshaft... (Which can itself go to hell in a handbasket, because if the driveline breaks, you better have loads of confidence in your E-Brake/Parking Brake, because 'Park' in the transmission ain't gonna do diddly...)

If you're just whittling into the safety margin, that's one thing, but going over the line foreshadows nasty consequences. Yeah, I know lots of guys still run 901/914 gearboxes behind SBC's in 914's - but they are for playing, and trucks are for working... (E.g. - I'm pretty sure that cubic yard of topsoil I hauled home in the half-ton Titan was more than the 1000-lb payload it's rated for...)

[messix]

a mild 383 built right will have big block type torque and great power, expect about 400-450 ft lbs from 2500 -3500rpm.

...but too much can be as bad as too little.
More torque than the driveline is built for leads to the path of more expensive upgrades. Bigger transmission - bigger cooling to reject the additional heat of more power and driveline. Bigger driveshaft. Bigger 3rd member.

The weakest link is always - something. I prefer it be the engine making less power than the driveline can handle. This doesn't leave you parked on the shoulder of the big hill during a tow wondering how you're going to replace the rear axle or driveshaft... (Which can itself go to hell in a handbasket, because if the driveline breaks, you better have loads of confidence in your E-Brake/Parking Brake, because 'Park' in the transmission ain't gonna do diddly...)

If you're just whittling into the safety margin, that's one thing, but going over the line foreshadows nasty consequences. Yeah, I know lots of guys still run 901/914 gearboxes behind SBC's in 914's - but they are for playing, and trucks are for working... (E.g. - I'm pretty sure that cubic yard of topsoil I hauled home in the half-ton Titan was more than the 1000-lb payload it's rated for...)

well coming from some one that bought a ..... foriegn "full size pick up" (IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/slap.gif) .....

the engine and tranny he got came out of a real 'merican 1 ton pick up!!!!

and true the only weak link here would be the stock unrebuilt tranny, but those are very inexpensive as exchange rebuilds [around here less than $1,000 for a 700r4]

the rest of the drive train... have you looked at the truck? it's a military truck!!! he could beat the living crap out of that and not hurt the drive train!

and i wouldn't get to hung up on making low rpm power wioth the stock axles 'cause those are most like around 4.88 or bigger gears.
freeway running even with tall tires will be around 2500 rpm or so.

[ArtechnikA]

well coming from some one that bought a ..... foriegn "full size pick up"

Yes, from the distant shores of Kentucky...

the rest of the drive train... have you looked at the truck? it's a military truck!!! he could beat the living crap out of that and not hurt the drive train!

I saw that. But as this is a 'general-interest 914' thread, it was a general-interest comment.

And yes, I have built an engine so well it broke the transmission...

[andys]

the ls motors are awesome but you loose the k.i.s.s for a truck like that. and there is no way you could be concerned with fuel economy with that truck!

I think my real point here is that the cost of these LSx motors (even with the 4l80e) out of the trucks, is how cheap and plentiful they are and make them a particularly attractive replacement. I'd bet you would damned near double your fuel mileage even in "that truck." It's just crying for a late model drivetrain.

BTW, there's an LS1 conversion forum that has tons of valuable swap information to guide you through just about anything that's liable to come up, BTDT.

Andys