Home  |  Forums  |  914 Info  |  Blogs
 
914World.com - The fastest growing online 914 community!
 
Porsche, and the Porsche crest are registered trademarks of Dr. Ing. h.c. F. Porsche AG. This site is not affiliated with Porsche in any way.
Its only purpose is to provide an online forum for car enthusiasts. All other trademarks are property of their respective owners.
 

Welcome Guest ( Log In | Register )

> testing FI parts
eg914
post Jul 24 2004, 06:44 PM
Post #1


Member
**

Group: Members
Posts: 319
Joined: 17-June 04
From: Elk Grove, CA
Member No.: 2,223
Region Association: None



I am new to this board, and have a question that I haven't found answered in searching the forum. I have owned my 914 for about 7 months, and love it. It is my daily driver. It is a '74 1.7L (does that seem right?). The PO had installed a progressive carb. I bought the car with a box of FI parts. I think most/all are there, but don't know if they work. The carb is giving me fits in the mornings. How do I test the box of FI parts I have before putting them on the car? It looks to be the appropriate D-jet injection for the 1.7L. I would like to have the FI working before winter.

Thanks in advance for your help
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
 
Reply to this topicStart new topic
Replies(1 - 10)
Brad Roberts
post Jul 24 2004, 07:02 PM
Post #2


914 Freak!
***************

Group: Members
Posts: 19,148
Joined: 23-December 02
Member No.: 8
Region Association: None



Hey Bill,

Your best bet is to find someone close by with an injected car that will let you "shotgun" parts at it for testing purposes. I could go on and on about measuring this and that.. but the only TRUE way of testing them is on a known good running car. Otherwise you are playing with fire.

Oh.. welcome to the club (IMG:style_emoticons/default/clap56.gif) you've come to the right place.


B
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
Levi
post Jul 24 2004, 09:10 PM
Post #3


Lick my nuts
***

Group: Benefactors
Posts: 623
Joined: 11-March 04
Member No.: 1,783



(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)
For the record, if its the factory engine and FI it would be a 1.8 with the L-Jet FI
Welcome to the Club!!
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
Bleyseng
post Jul 24 2004, 09:25 PM
Post #4


Aircooled Baby!
**********

Group: Members
Posts: 13,036
Joined: 27-December 02
From: Seattle, Washington (for now)
Member No.: 24
Region Association: Pacific Northwest



Spread out the FI parts on the floor and take a pic. We can then atleast tell what you have.
Geoff
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
eg914
post Jul 26 2004, 11:49 PM
Post #5


Member
**

Group: Members
Posts: 319
Joined: 17-June 04
From: Elk Grove, CA
Member No.: 2,223
Region Association: None



Sorry I am so slow to respond. I will take a picture of the FI parts I have by the weekend. I appreciate the help. By the way, my VIN is 4742912108, manufactured 01/74, with and engine number EA065956. I have been lead to believe the engine is 1.7L based on the number (I checked in the Haynes manual, though they could be wrong). Also, the script on the back of the car says 1.7. If it didn't come that way, someone must have really wanted to change it.

Thanks again for the help,
Bill
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
Mueller
post Jul 26 2004, 11:57 PM
Post #6


914 Freak!
***************

Group: Members
Posts: 17,155
Joined: 4-January 03
From: Antioch, CA
Member No.: 87
Region Association: None



welcome....


check out Paul Anders site:

D-Jet information overload (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

Look for page: D-Jetronic Parts Analysis and Troubleshooting

With a digital volt meter, you can test quite a few of the components.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
eg914
post Jul 27 2004, 12:08 AM
Post #7


Member
**

Group: Members
Posts: 319
Joined: 17-June 04
From: Elk Grove, CA
Member No.: 2,223
Region Association: None



Herr Meuller,
Thanks for the site reference. It looks very complete.
Bill
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
type47
post Jul 27 2004, 06:51 AM
Post #8


Viermeister
****

Group: Members
Posts: 4,254
Joined: 7-August 03
From: Vienna, VA
Member No.: 994
Region Association: MidAtlantic Region



there are lots of easy tests that can be made of the components, like the vacuum holding test of the manifold pressure sensor and the electrical resistance of same. one thing i would suggest is to check the continuity of the wiring harness so you could eliminate possible snafu's from that. one source that could be used is the diagram in the clymer/lash manual. there are 2 good diagrams in it: 1) looks like the harness in that the connections are "to scale" or at the actual location along the harness in the pix just like the real harness. 2) is a diagram of connection pin #'s and pin numbers on the parts, that is, the pin on the connection plug is shown and the pin on the, say for example, the aux air regulator is shown.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
davep
post Jul 27 2004, 08:19 AM
Post #9


914 Historian
*****

Group: Benefactors
Posts: 5,262
Joined: 13-October 03
From: Burford, ON, N0E 1A0
Member No.: 1,244
Region Association: Canada



Well, it is definitely a 1974, and the choices were a 1.8 or a 2.0 not the 1.7. There are a few ways to tell what the original engine was. The first is to check the engine compartment for a decal on the drivers side wall above the relay plate. The engine code was listed there. EC for the 1.8, and the 2.0 was GA. A more obscure check is to take a look at the decal on the fuel tank expansion chamber for the tire specs. If the tire spec shows a SR rating then it is a 1.8, and an HR rating would be for the 2.0 engine.

Out of personal interest, what is the data on the Karmann badge on the drivers door hinge post? The Lxxx is the paint code and the xxx9xxx is the chassis number.

DaveP
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
Levi
post Jul 27 2004, 08:24 AM
Post #10


Lick my nuts
***

Group: Benefactors
Posts: 623
Joined: 11-March 04
Member No.: 1,783



QUOTE(eg914 @ Jul 26 2004, 10:49 PM)
By the way, my VIN is 4742912108, manufactured 01/74, with and engine number EA065956. Thanks again for the help,
Bill

Bill,
Yup its offical, you have a 74 914 with a 72 - 73 1.7L engine,
Your right, someone did really want to change it.... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
eg914
post Jul 31 2004, 01:06 PM
Post #11


Member
**

Group: Members
Posts: 319
Joined: 17-June 04
From: Elk Grove, CA
Member No.: 2,223
Region Association: None



DaveP,
The badge on the door post shows:
chassis # 219582 (what does this mean to you?)
paint # L99A (I think, hard to read in the garage)

Just a couple more questions on this mess:
Is there any way to tell the displacement of a rebuilt engine?
The box of parts I have are definately 1.8L FI parts. Will they work on what appears to be 1.7L? Am I sol? It appears I have all but the fuel pump.
Will any of this work with the megasquirt I keep reading about?

I may just roll over and go with carbs.

Thanks for all the help and information.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post

Reply to this topicStart new topic
1 User(s) are reading this topic (1 Guests and 0 Anonymous Users)
0 Members:

 



- Lo-Fi Version Time is now: 9th May 2025 - 01:37 PM