Help/advice for replacing body panels, front wall |
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Help/advice for replacing body panels, front wall |
sixaddict |
Dec 24 2011, 10:39 AM
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#1
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 804 Joined: 22-January 09 From: Panama City Beach, FL Member No.: 9,961 Region Association: South East States |
Had crazy incident occur while buying rust free car. Replacing front wall and one headlight bucket as result(its a story for "another " time) with NOS parts.....yes Porsche porn.
So I will be removing front wall and drivers side headlight bucket by drilling out spot welds to prepare the scene Got really special drill bit that will endure all the drilling....but surely there are some tricks to finding all the factory spot welds and dealing with removing seam sealer. Anyone with experience in this area could be of great help as I am sure patience with knowledge will really make this a much easier project......HAve body guy to do reinstall so it is not "hacked" . Any words of wisdom from the World? Thanks and Merry Christmas (IMG:style_emoticons/default/pray.gif) Terry P.S. Had to switch to laptop from Ipad to get this posted...per other post |
914werke |
Dec 24 2011, 01:58 PM
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#2
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"I got blisters on me fingers" Group: Members Posts: 10,116 Joined: 22-March 03 From: USofA Member No.: 453 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
its not that tough, once all the seam sealer is removed from the areas in question hit the weld points with a sander, the spot welds tend to be low points and show up easily.
Center punch each then drill till you break the top steel. If youve done an effective job on the spots an air chisel does short work removing the bad section, but go lightly as there usually is a place or two (or three) that you haven't cut thoroughly and you can tear the underlying steel. |
sixaddict |
Dec 24 2011, 03:10 PM
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#3
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 804 Joined: 22-January 09 From: Panama City Beach, FL Member No.: 9,961 Region Association: South East States |
what kills seam sealer best
its not that tough, once all the seam sealer is removed form the areas in question hit the weld points with a sander, the spot welds tend to be low points and show up easily. Center punch each then drill till you break the top steel. If you done an effective job on the spots an air chisel does short work removing the bad section, but go lightly as there usually is a place or two (or three) that you haven't cut thoroughly and you can tear the underlying steel. |
wingnut86 |
Dec 24 2011, 03:25 PM
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#4
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...boola la boo boola boo... Group: Members Posts: 1,053 Joined: 22-April 10 From: South Carolina Member No.: 11,645 Region Association: South East States |
Cat of 9-Tails?
Seriously, HF heat guns are great at $10-$15 a piece, then a good hooked paint scraper. You can use one of the metal flay wheels on a drill to ease the process but you still need to work some heat in 1st. Merry Xmas. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/santa_smiley.gif) |
rick 918-S |
Dec 24 2011, 05:11 PM
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#5
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Hey nice rack! -Celette Group: Members Posts: 20,471 Joined: 30-December 02 From: Now in Superior WI Member No.: 43 Region Association: Northstar Region |
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...=104128&hl=
http://www.914world.com/specs/bodydims.php Here's a couple links for ya. I changed the front panel on Sandy's Ravenna car but I used a salvage nose section. I don't drill spotwelds if I'm not saving the part I'm removing. I use a cutoff tool with a 3" disc and grind them thin. Then I use a sharpened screwdriver and split them. Once the damaged part is removed I use a grinder and clean up the leftover bump of spot weld.This leaves the original metal 99.9% intact for joining the new pieces. Lots of ways to do it. But that's my way. |
sixaddict |
Dec 25 2011, 10:06 AM
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#6
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 804 Joined: 22-January 09 From: Panama City Beach, FL Member No.: 9,961 Region Association: South East States |
Thanks just want I needed. This weeks project once I can get back home
uote name='rick 918-S' date='Dec 24 2011, 03:11 PM' post='1594621'] http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...=104128&hl= http://www.914world.com/specs/bodydims.php Here's a couple links for ya. I changed the front panel on Sandy's Ravenna car but I used a salvage nose section. I don't drill spotwelds if I'm not saving the part I'm removing. I use a cutoff tool with a 3" disc and grind them thin. Then I use a sharpened screwdriver and split them. Once the damaged part is removed I use a grinder and clean up the leftover bump of spot weld.This leaves the original metal 99.9% intact for joining the new pieces. Lots of ways to do it. But that's my way. [/quote] |
scotty b |
Dec 25 2011, 10:24 AM
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#7
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rust free you say ? Group: Members Posts: 16,375 Joined: 7-January 05 From: richmond, Va. Member No.: 3,419 Region Association: None |
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...=104128&hl= http://www.914world.com/specs/bodydims.php Here's a couple links for ya. I changed the front panel on Sandy's Ravenna car but I used a salvage nose section. I don't drill spotwelds if I'm not saving the part I'm removing. I use a cutoff tool with a 3" disc and grind them thin. Then I use a sharpened screwdriver and split them. Once the damaged part is removed I use a grinder and clean up the leftover bump of spot weld.This leaves the original metal 99.9% intact for joining the new pieces. Lots of ways to do it. But that's my way. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) No matter how carefull you are with a spot weld bit, you will cut through on most of them. Ricks method leaves the underlying panel intact without any cut marks that weaken the panel |
sww914 |
Dec 25 2011, 01:16 PM
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#8
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 2,439 Joined: 4-June 06 Member No.: 6,146 Region Association: None |
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...=104128&hl= http://www.914world.com/specs/bodydims.php Here's a couple links for ya. I changed the front panel on Sandy's Ravenna car but I used a salvage nose section. I don't drill spotwelds if I'm not saving the part I'm removing. I use a cutoff tool with a 3" disc and grind them thin. Then I use a sharpened screwdriver and split them. Once the damaged part is removed I use a grinder and clean up the leftover bump of spot weld.This leaves the original metal 99.9% intact for joining the new pieces. Lots of ways to do it. But that's my way. Another pro here, that's the right way to do it. I prefer the 3M 1991 discs. |
cary |
Jan 3 2016, 10:49 AM
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#9
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 3,900 Joined: 26-January 04 From: Sherwood Oregon Member No.: 1,608 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
Thanks for the insight............... I'm taking on a replacement project next week.
Any need to brace the trunk/fenders before removal begins ? Haven't seen the car or the replacement panel. |
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