Home  |  Forums  |  914 Info  |  Blogs
 
914World.com - The fastest growing online 914 community!
 
Porsche, and the Porsche crest are registered trademarks of Dr. Ing. h.c. F. Porsche AG. This site is not affiliated with Porsche in any way.
Its only purpose is to provide an online forum for car enthusiasts. All other trademarks are property of their respective owners.
 

Welcome Guest ( Log In | Register )

> Cannot bleed right rear brake
tornik550
post Jun 5 2012, 08:42 PM
Post #1


Senior Member
***

Group: Members
Posts: 1,248
Joined: 29-January 07
From: Ohio
Member No.: 7,486
Region Association: None
I have tried bleedling my brakes with three different types of bleeders and I have the same issue each time. I can get all the calipers to bleed properly except the passenger rear brake. Using the hand pump type of bleeder, I have pumped the right rear brake for a very long time and I still get bubbles. It never seems to change. I wasn't sure if I had speed bleeders or not so I removed the bleeder and found it was slightly bent (probably from over tightening). I put a new bleeder in and restarted the process- no change. Any ideas? I have not seen any fluid leaks. I have not tried to drive the car yet due to some engine issues. They were rebuilt fairly recently (by me)- is it possibel that I screwed something up? Seems to me that I would see a leak somewhere if I screwed up the rebuild.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
 
 Reply to this topicStart new topic
Replies(1 - 16)
McMark
post Jun 5 2012, 09:45 PM
Post #2


914 Freak!
***************

Group: Retired Admin
Posts: 20,179
Joined: 13-March 03
From: Grand Rapids, MI
Member No.: 419
Region Association: None
I hate bleeding brakes for just this kind of crap. But you may be sucking air in past the threads which shows up in the line, but isn't really air in the caliper.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
jcd914
post Jun 5 2012, 10:00 PM
Post #3


Advanced Member
****

Group: Members
Posts: 2,092
Joined: 7-February 08
From: Sacramento, CA
Member No.: 8,684
Region Association: Northern California
QUOTE(McMark @ Jun 5 2012, 08:45 PM) *

I hate bleeding brakes for just this kind of crap. But you may be sucking air in past the threads which shows up in the line, but isn't really air in the caliper.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) This was my first thought.

Nothing beats the 2 person method where someone pumps up pressure and holds it and then someone quickly opens and closes the bleeder. You get a quick rush of fluid to push along any "stuck" air. And you can tell if any air bubbles come out with the fluid or show up after the bleeder is closed.

Jim
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
Mike Bellis
post Jun 5 2012, 10:09 PM
Post #4


Resident Electrician
*****

Group: Members
Posts: 8,347
Joined: 22-June 09
From: Midlothian TX
Member No.: 10,496
Region Association: None
Since the bleeder seal is at the cone, put teflon tape just on the threads to stop air bubbles. OR Buy speed bleeders.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
ConeDodger
post Jun 5 2012, 10:20 PM
Post #5


Apex killer!
***************

Group: Members
Posts: 24,028
Joined: 31-December 04
From: Tahoe Area
Member No.: 3,380
Region Association: Northern California
I think that two person method with one stomping that pedal is kind of important. Breaks bubbles loose... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
McMark
post Jun 6 2012, 11:35 AM
Post #6


914 Freak!
***************

Group: Retired Admin
Posts: 20,179
Joined: 13-March 03
From: Grand Rapids, MI
Member No.: 419
Region Association: None
QUOTE(kg6dxn @ Jun 5 2012, 09:09 PM) *

put teflon tape just on the threads to stop air bubbles

I haven't found this to be 100% reliable. But it's a cheap option that's worth a shot.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
tornik550
post Jun 6 2012, 08:55 PM
Post #7


Senior Member
***

Group: Members
Posts: 1,248
Joined: 29-January 07
From: Ohio
Member No.: 7,486
Region Association: None
I tried a variation of the ideas above. I put a small amount of Teflon ptfe paste on the bleeder screw threads. Worked like a charm. Thanks to all.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
Dr Evil
post Jun 7 2012, 08:28 AM
Post #8


Send me your transmission!
***************

Group: Members
Posts: 23,038
Joined: 21-November 03
From: Loveland, OH 45140
Member No.: 1,372
Region Association: MidAtlantic Region
Gee, Steve. I could swear that I told you that would happen with the speed bleeders and that I had this same problem (IMG:style_emoticons/default/rolleyes.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif)
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
442nd914s
post Sep 25 2012, 08:24 PM
Post #9


Member
**

Group: Members
Posts: 139
Joined: 25-July 12
From: KC Suburb
Member No.: 14,718
Region Association: None
To piggy back on this tread......
What is the proper sequence in bleeding? I have read in some technical articles to start with the rear right, rear left, front right left right AND on '73 Clymer publication it start with the outboard left rear inboard left rear, outboard right rear inboard right rear, right front (no dual bleeders), left front. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/screwy.gif)

I haven't checked my rears to see if they're dual bleeders, but I know for sure that the fronts are dual. What should I do? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif)
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
sixnotfour
post Sep 25 2012, 09:17 PM
Post #10


914 Wizard
**********

Group: Members
Posts: 10,822
Joined: 12-September 04
From: Life Elevated..planet UT.
Member No.: 2,744
Region Association: Rocky Mountains
Sometimes the front piston in the master cylinder gets hung up in the crud in the master cyl. and does not retract, Not allowing rear brakes to pump up.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
mittelmotor
post Sep 25 2012, 09:19 PM
Post #11


Member
**

Group: Members
Posts: 334
Joined: 21-May 12
From: SoCal
Member No.: 14,464
Region Association: None
Another recommendation for Speed Bleeders. Cheap and simple. Bled my brakes just once after the whole system was drained for the renovation, and the pedal is firm.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
76-914
post Sep 25 2012, 09:25 PM
Post #12


Repeat Offender & Resident Subaru Antagonist
**********

Group: Members
Posts: 13,700
Joined: 23-January 09
From: Temecula, CA
Member No.: 9,964
Region Association: Southern California
No mention of you know who's long tube method?
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
ClayPerrine
post Sep 25 2012, 09:28 PM
Post #13


Life's been good to me so far.....
***************

Group: Admin
Posts: 16,314
Joined: 11-September 03
From: Hurst, TX.
Member No.: 1,143
Region Association: NineFourteenerVille
I would also make sure you don't have a flex line that is bad and collapsed internally.

User is online!Profile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
Eric_Shea
post Sep 26 2012, 07:00 AM
Post #14


PMB Performance
***************

Group: Admin
Posts: 19,304
Joined: 3-September 03
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Member No.: 1,110
Region Association: Rocky Mountains
Not a fan of vacuum bleeders over pressure bleeders. Those 7x1 bleeder holes on the caliper won't seal until the valve seat is fully seated on many of these old calipers. Meaning, once it's loose, all sorts of air can leak past the threads causing the vacuum bleeder to look like its constantly pulling air out of the system.

Pressure bleeding is much more betterer...
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
Elliot Cannon
post Sep 26 2012, 10:32 AM
Post #15


914 Guru
*****

Group: Retired Members
Posts: 8,487
Joined: 29-December 06
From: Paso Robles Ca. (Central coast)
Member No.: 7,407
Region Association: None
Speed Bleeders. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/first.gif)
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
r_towle
post Sep 26 2012, 11:12 AM
Post #16


Custom Member
***************

Group: Members
Posts: 24,705
Joined: 9-January 03
From: Taxachusetts
Member No.: 124
Region Association: North East States
I have always used the two person method.
With the 914 rears, I have always used the bleed, drive and brake hard, bleed again method.

rich
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
toolguy
post Sep 26 2012, 06:33 PM
Post #17


Senior Member
***

Group: Members
Posts: 1,275
Joined: 2-April 11
From: San Diego / El Cajon
Member No.: 12,889
Region Association: Southern California
Trust an old guy on this one. . there is no substitute on the 2 person method. . it always works. . {Unless your GF is helping and she doesn't quite know what 'hold the pedal' means }. .
I go around 3 times after a firm pedal and no air just to be sure it's all new fluid. .

I tried vacuum bleeding mine and kept getting getting a small amount of airbubbles on one wheel. . . it was sucking past the threads no matter what I tried. .
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
« Next Oldest · 914World Garage · Next Newest »
 

Reply to this topicStart new topic
1 User(s) are reading this topic (1 Guests and 0 Anonymous Users)
0 Members:

 

Display Mode: Switch to: Standard · Linear+ · Switch to: Outline

Track this topic · Email this topic · Print this topic · Subscribe to this forum

- Lo-Fi Version Time is now: 9th May 2025 - 01:54 PM
Invision Power Board v9.1.4 © 2025  IPS, Inc.
All rights reserved 914World.com © since 2002
914World.com is the fastest growing online 914 community!
We have it all, classifieds, events, forums, vendors, parts, autocross, racing, technical articles, events calendar, newsletter, restoration, gallery, archives, history and more for your Porsche 914 ...