I have tried bleedling my brakes with three different types of bleeders and I have the same issue each time. I can get all the calipers to bleed properly except the passenger rear brake. Using the hand pump type of bleeder, I have pumped the right rear brake for a very long time and I still get bubbles. It never seems to change. I wasn't sure if I had speed bleeders or not so I removed the bleeder and found it was slightly bent (probably from over tightening). I put a new bleeder in and restarted the process- no change. Any ideas? I have not seen any fluid leaks. I have not tried to drive the car yet due to some engine issues. They were rebuilt fairly recently (by me)- is it possibel that I screwed something up? Seems to me that I would see a leak somewhere if I screwed up the rebuild.

I hate bleeding brakes for just this kind of crap. But you may be sucking air in past the threads which shows up in the line, but isn't really air in the caliper.

This was my first thought.

Nothing beats the 2 person method where someone pumps up pressure and holds it and then someone quickly opens and closes the bleeder. You get a quick rush of fluid to push along any "stuck" air. And you can tell if any air bubbles come out with the fluid or show up after the bleeder is closed.

Jim

Since the bleeder seal is at the cone, put teflon tape just on the threads to stop air bubbles. OR Buy speed bleeders.

I think that two person method with one stomping that pedal is kind of important. Breaks bubbles loose...

I haven't found this to be 100% reliable. But it's a cheap option that's worth a shot.

I tried a variation of the ideas above. I put a small amount of Teflon ptfe paste on the bleeder screw threads. Worked like a charm. Thanks to all.

Gee, Steve. I could swear that I told you that would happen with the speed bleeders and that I had this same problem

To piggy back on this tread......
What is the proper sequence in bleeding? I have read in some technical articles to start with the rear right, rear left, front right left right AND on '73 Clymer publication it start with the outboard left rear inboard left rear, outboard right rear inboard right rear, right front (no dual bleeders), left front.

I haven't checked my rears to see if they're dual bleeders, but I know for sure that the fronts are dual. What should I do?

Sometimes the front piston in the master cylinder gets hung up in the crud in the master cyl. and does not retract, Not allowing rear brakes to pump up.

Another recommendation for Speed Bleeders. Cheap and simple. Bled my brakes just once after the whole system was drained for the renovation, and the pedal is firm.

No mention of you know who's long tube method?

I would also make sure you don't have a flex line that is bad and collapsed internally.

Not a fan of vacuum bleeders over pressure bleeders. Those 7x1 bleeder holes on the caliper won't seal until the valve seat is fully seated on many of these old calipers. Meaning, once it's loose, all sorts of air can leak past the threads causing the vacuum bleeder to look like its constantly pulling air out of the system.

Pressure bleeding is much more betterer...

Speed Bleeders.

I have always used the two person method.
With the 914 rears, I have always used the bleed, drive and brake hard, bleed again method.

rich

Trust an old guy on this one. . there is no substitute on the 2 person method. . it always works. . {Unless your GF is helping and she doesn't quite know what 'hold the pedal' means }. .
I go around 3 times after a firm pedal and no air just to be sure it's all new fluid. .

I tried vacuum bleeding mine and kept getting getting a small amount of airbubbles on one wheel. . . it was sucking past the threads no matter what I tried. .