Monster 4 2.6l question., Is this a route I want to take? Options

[SUNAB914]

Hello and good day, please don't beat me up, i'm only asking at this point because of some things I found in my searchings. Here is the back ground as I was told, and I'm wanting you to to tell me if this is feasable or run away.
-Engine was bought complete, had low oil pressure. Race engine
-Engine completely stripped down for rebuild, crank and rods toast, needs new ones.
-106 mm cylinders and rebuilt heads to match. The heads look brand new.
-Fabulous looking duel webers. Unsure how big?
Labor won't be an issue in cost, but can this be a street drivable engine or is it just too big and will not be reliable?
Thanks,

[Mark Henry]

What do you plan to do with it?
What size valves? Any bigger than 44mm intakes is a waste.
That size only nickies would make it reliable.

Really unless you are willing to pay I'd only do a 2056cc or 2276cc.

[SUNAB914]

"Can this be a street drivable engine or is it just too big and will not be reliable?"

I do not know at this time what size valves. Like i said, labor cost isn't an issue, parts cost could become issue, but would I have a reliable street motor or something that just sat in the garage?
Mark- Your signature has a T4 2.6L for your bug, what are you going to do with it? Is that for climbing mountains or something?
I know nothing about a big 4 like this.
Thanks,

[Mark Henry]

"Can this be a street drivable engine or is it just too big and will not be reliable?"

I do not know at this time what size valves. Like i said, labor cost isn't an issue, parts cost could become issue, but would I have a reliable street motor or something that just sat in the garage?
Mark- Your signature has a T4 2.6L for your bug, what are you going to do with it? Is that for climbing mountains or something?
I know nothing about a big 4 like this.
Thanks,

It's going to be a summer daily driver and for the most part I have built it this way. I bought the engine for my 914 but the project got put on hold because of kids, life, etc.
I got the /6 itch and so this has moved over to my '67 bug. The bug should be done for this spring, hopefully my 914 will be done mid summer, I have a push on to complete my projects.
I'm leaving some HP on the table, it will be sightly detuned for reliability, but it still has a aftermarket FI version of the WEB 163 carb cam (from Jake). It will still be 160-180hp range. Heads are 42mmX 48mm with a bit of port work on the exhaust ports, SS valves and dual springs. I've built this combo before for a customer and it's very powerful but street drivable . Nickies (102mm with custom JE's) is the only thing that will keep it reliable at that cylinder size, not cheap.
I'm also going to be using SDS fuel injection, I have several years experience with this system.

[DBCooper]

Always depends on the price, but if that's really a "race" engine then not many of the parts will live comfortably on the street. And if you need to replace the cam, 106mm P/C's, heads, crank, pistons, detune the carbs, etc to make it streetable, what exactly are you buying anyway? Not even the case, with spigots already machined for those big cylinders. I'd suggest that unless you're a racer and can use that engine that instead you build a street motor. Unless that "race" motor is dirt cheap You'll be time and money ahead.

[ConeDodger]

My 2432 is very streetable. Reach in turn the key and hear it idle streetable. I'd bet many stock 1.7, 1.8, 2.0 914's can't do that.

A couple of questions and a comment, first what kind of race engine? An autocross engine can make bunches of heat and that would be irrelevant because the 'race' is only 1 minute long. Second, what kind of cylinders? At 106mm I would want them to be Nickies. Lastly, "rods were toast" lights a caution light for me. Rods are not something that usually go in a TypeIV. Especially newly built TypeIV's. Pistons blow up due to detonation, cams self-destruct because of wrong oil... Something's wrong with this picture. I'd guess the rods were toast going in to the engine. Pretty sure if it's 'a bargain' it's because you're going to have to put $10,000 into it to make it run...

[Mark Henry]

Just an FYI the 106mm cylinders (if they are that) would have a 103mm register.
I agree with Rob a bunch of things in this "deal" raises red flags.

[SUNAB914]

Sorry i used the word of "race engine", I guess I can't verify that was the case. The deal is is that I'm looking at a clean case in half, all the parts except crank and rods. hell i didn't see pistons, but i did see cylinders. Heads looked brand new, but they were probably rebuilt. Sizes and all that don't know at this time except 106mm was thrown out there. If I end up with it, do i even try to rebuild it or just put it in the corner till someone comes along that wants it? last thing i need is another headache.
thanks for all your suggestions, I'm listening and learning here.

[McMark]

Big engine means big money. No way around it. At least if you plan on having it last any reasonable amount of time and put out what it should. What's the point of building an inefficient 2.6 if it only puts out 150hp? You can build a nice strong 2270 that does that.

The bigger you go, the more careful/knowledgable you have be to actually have that increased size worth the money.

Anyone can build a 2056 to its potential.
The 2270 at its peak has a few tricks, but isn't hard.
A 2.4 at its peak takes some real know-how and experience to build correctly.
A 2.6 at its peak is very challenging.

[SUNAB914]

Thanks.

[DBCooper]

last thing i need is another headache.

Headache. No, migraine.

[scotty b]

Cam, valves and stroke will all matter as to whether or not it is streetable.

IMHO Stick with your engine and get a good straight body (IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif)

[ConeDodger]

Cam, valves and stroke will all matter as to whether or not it is streetable.

IMHO Stick with your engine and get a good straight body (IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif)

There you go... Body man hears a few coins rattling around in your can and all of a sudden your car needs paint! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/av-943.gif)

[mepstein]

Cam, valves and stroke will all matter as to whether or not it is streetable.

IMHO Stick with your engine and get a good straight body (IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif)

There you go... Body man hears a few coins rattling around in your can and all of a sudden your car needs paint! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/av-943.gif)

Rob - I think Scotty is referring to this -

[SUNAB914]

Oh I found another gem, still haven't gotten a settlement from Uncle Sam yet, but i found a fine roller that has been sitting in a garage for the last eight years. Very rust free car brought in years ago from Idaho. Interior is mint! Laguna Blue which I don't care for, so hopefully Scotty can make it Venice Mett. Blue for me , if things proceed as planned. The motor I have been asking about comes with it, my engine and trans from the car above can go right in for time being. Pics to follow soon. I found one problem on the cowling on drivers side, that I have a small concern about, but everything else checked out.

[SUNAB914]

The Replacement 914.

[billh1963]

You sure you don't want to sell that to me and move on to one that has the color you like?

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

[SUNAB914]

We share a sickness don't we Bill, and the wife was not happy when i told her either. Scotty, need estimate for a complete paint. Inside and out.
Do i really want to restore another one? How do i find these things?
Pulled front hood seal and the rain channels were good, slight surface rust in rear trunk in a small area. Solid everywhere else, rockers, hell holes, jack points. We will see.

[scotty b]

Got your text. I'll come take a look at it once it is in your posession (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[SUNAB914]

interior pics of 75 2.0