Changing oil pump seals;, Do I need to split/loosen case bolts? |
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Changing oil pump seals;, Do I need to split/loosen case bolts? |
914Eric |
May 6 2013, 12:48 PM
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#1
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Member Group: Members Posts: 316 Joined: 7-November 12 From: Northern Idaho Member No.: 15,125 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
I bought a new gasket and o-ring for the oil pump cover and then had trouble getting the cover off. I removed the 4 bolts and tapped it and tried to pry gently on the 2 ears of the oil cover with no luck. I didn't pry too hard as I wanted to be carful. Someone said I needed to loosen the case bolts because the oil pump cover is behind the case.
Checked the factory manual and it shows a "Tuning fork" shaped pry bar to use to get the cover off and doesn't mention splitting/loosening the case bolts. So my question is do I just need the proper pry bar and more muscle, or do I need to loosen case bolts to get the oil pump cover off?? Thanks, Eric |
nathansnathan |
May 6 2013, 01:39 PM
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#2
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,052 Joined: 31-May 10 From: Laguna Beach, CA Member No.: 11,782 Region Association: None |
edit, I should weigh in again on this. - It shouldn't introduce any leaking, loosening the bolts. The case parting sealer is like aviation gasket and made to never fully dry. When you do loosen the ones around the pump, it will come out a lot easier. You may break something if you don't.
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif) |
dangrouche |
May 6 2013, 02:01 PM
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#3
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dangrouche Group: Members Posts: 550 Joined: 1-May 04 From: San Francisco Bay Area Member No.: 2,012 Region Association: None |
yes you should loosen case bolts to take the binding pressure off the oil pump
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Cap'n Krusty |
May 6 2013, 02:01 PM
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#4
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Cap'n Krusty Group: Members Posts: 10,794 Joined: 24-June 04 From: Santa Maria, CA Member No.: 2,246 Region Association: Central California |
I bought a new gasket and o-ring for the oil pump cover and then had trouble getting the cover off. I removed the 4 bolts and tapped it and tried to pry gently on the 2 ears of the oil cover with no luck. I didn't pry too hard as I wanted to be carful. Someone said I needed to loosen the case bolts because the oil pump cover is behind the case. Checked the factory manual and it shows a "Tuning fork" shaped pry bar to use to get the cover off and doesn't mention splitting/loosening the case bolts. So my question is do I just need the proper pry bar and more muscle, or do I need to loosen case bolts to get the oil pump cover off?? Thanks, Eric On a stock pump, you're not pulling the cover, you're pulling the whole oil pump. You don't want to loosen or remove any case through bolts as you'll end up with leaks along the seam. There are a pair of tabs that are used to pry the pump out, and you need to go from side to side, a little at a time, until the pump is out. BTW, we did a ton of these on 73s and 74s under warranty, and we did the front crank seal and o-ring at the same time. We did 'em in the car. The seal and o-ring are more apt to be the source of the leak. Cast iron pumps leak between the pump and the case, and the cover comes right off as it's not integral with the pump body like the OE pump. The Cap'n |
r_towle |
May 6 2013, 02:16 PM
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#5
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Custom Member Group: Members Posts: 24,588 Joined: 9-January 03 From: Taxachusetts Member No.: 124 Region Association: North East States |
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914Eric |
May 6 2013, 03:46 PM
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#6
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Member Group: Members Posts: 316 Joined: 7-November 12 From: Northern Idaho Member No.: 15,125 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
On a stock pump, you're not pulling the cover, you're pulling the whole oil pump. You don't want to loosen or remove any case through bolts as you'll end up with leaks along the seam. There are a pair of tabs that are used to pry the pump out, and you need to go from side to side, a little at a time, until the pump is out. BTW, we did a ton of these on 73s and 74s under warranty, and we did the front crank seal and o-ring at the same time. We did 'em in the car. The seal and o-ring are more apt to be the source of the leak. Cast iron pumps leak between the pump and the case, and the cover comes right off as it's not integral with the pump body like the OE pump. The Cap'n So if I read this correctly Cap'n...I just need to carefully apply more muscle to my prying and don't need to worry about loosening any other bolts other than the 4 that hold on the cover. Eric |
914Eric |
May 7 2013, 04:02 PM
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#7
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Member Group: Members Posts: 316 Joined: 7-November 12 From: Northern Idaho Member No.: 15,125 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
Anybody want to give Cap'n an (IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) so I can get out to the shop and pry that sucker off? |
76-914 |
May 7 2013, 06:15 PM
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#8
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Repeat Offender & Resident Subaru Antagonist Group: Members Posts: 13,508 Joined: 23-January 09 From: Temecula, CA Member No.: 9,964 Region Association: Southern California |
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) He's forgotten more than most of us will ever know. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif) Grouchy and informed. Hell, with those attributes John, you'd make someone a fine wife. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif)
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rudedude |
May 7 2013, 07:21 PM
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#9
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 511 Joined: 1-January 05 From: minneapolis, mn Member No.: 3,387 Region Association: Upper MidWest |
It's not that bad. I did my sons in the car last sunday in under three hours.
Its tough on old shoulders working over your head that long. |
Valy |
May 7 2013, 07:59 PM
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#10
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,677 Joined: 6-April 10 From: Sunnyvale, CA Member No.: 11,573 Region Association: Northern California |
The pump should come out without loosening the case bolts.
If it doesn't, you didn't have enough breakfast. |
914Eric |
May 7 2013, 08:38 PM
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#11
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Member Group: Members Posts: 316 Joined: 7-November 12 From: Northern Idaho Member No.: 15,125 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
Awesome guys...thanks.
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif) I trust John, AKA Cap'n, but I just feel better when I have a couple of people to verify...Trust but verify. lol |
nathansnathan |
May 7 2013, 09:19 PM
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#12
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,052 Joined: 31-May 10 From: Laguna Beach, CA Member No.: 11,782 Region Association: None |
Awesome guys...thanks. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif) I trust John, AKA Cap'n, but I just feel better when I have a couple of people to verify...Trust but verify. lol Well just be careful then. Don't say you weren't warned. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/images.thesamba.com-11782-1367983144.1.jpg) http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic...asc&start=0 |
914Eric |
May 8 2013, 09:39 AM
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#13
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Member Group: Members Posts: 316 Joined: 7-November 12 From: Northern Idaho Member No.: 15,125 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
Well just be careful then. Don't say you weren't warned. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/images.thesamba.com-11782-1367983144.1.jpg) http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic...asc&start=0 The Samba thread you linked in was very interesting. Now I'm wavering again. I may just chicken out and forget about the oil pump gasket until some point in the future if I ever need to rebuild the engine. Seems cowardice is better than valor. I don't want to ruin a perfectly good original 2.0 engine. The thread mentioned that it was a GEX rebuilt engine and not original. I'm wondering if that might be the cause of the difficulties on that particular engine. |
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