AEM Air Fuel Gauge- Awesome!, Innovate sucks!!!! Options

[tornik550]

For the past year, I have been fighting my innovate lc1 setup. It would work under certain circumstances. I never really trusted the readings. Everything was setup properly and calibrated properly. I just got fed up and got an AEM setup. Installed it, started right up. Turns out that my innovate readings were really inaccurate. I was having a super difficult time tuning my carbs cause I was getting strange readings. Now with the AEM, it turns out that my carbs are pretty close to where they should be (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif)

Very please with the AEM setup.

[Trekkor]

Same one I use.

Nice set-up.


KT

[brant]

I've checked my innovate system with an air injected professional dyno jet system. 3 separate years. It's dead accurate.

[jim_hoyland]

What is AEM ? Have a link ? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[tornik550]

What is AEM ? Have a link ? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

http://www.aemelectronics.com/wideband-air...-fuel-gauge-25/



I got mine on ebay new for $155 shipped.

[Mark Henry]

How did you mount it?
Was the harness long enough?

[iamchappy]

I may have to convert my LC-1 has been acting up..

[tornik550]

How did you mount it?
Was the harness long enough?

I have a plate in the dash with holes cut out for gauges. I took the innovate gauge and replaced with the AEM. The stock harness was long enough. I even had a lot of slack. My headers exit on the passenger side. I ran the wire through the tunnel then over the engine, out the rear tin then to the bung behind th epassenger cv joint.

[worn]

How did you mount it?
Was the harness long enough?

I had extra wire. My gauge is mounted on the floor (very bad spot) because I already have a rubber 3 gauge pod full under the dash. It wired in great and I bundled the left over wire for when I make my triple or quad gauge. Then I will move it up to replace the oil pressure and volt meter. The bung went in without a problem and I routed the wire along the clutch cable jacket.

I am making headway on dialing in the MPS for the 2056 with higher compression. Without the gauge it would be all over.

[Mark Henry]

How did you mount it?
Was the harness long enough?

I have a plate in the dash with holes cut out for gauges. I took the innovate gauge and replaced with the AEM. The stock harness was long enough. I even had a lot of slack. My headers exit on the passenger side. I ran the wire through the tunnel then over the engine, out the rear tin then to the bung behind th epassenger cv joint.

Are you running a console?

I have the same question in at PLX, also asked if it's OK to cut and splice, but no reply so far.

I don't have a console and want to do the ashtray mount trick, just wondering if you had enough slack to run the loop to the front of the foot well and back up into the dash.
I'll be running a /6 so it would have to reach right back to the muffler area.


Just wondering if it has enough harness? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)

[Mark Henry]

Sorry I did get a reply from PLX... just was hard to open (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)

Sun, Jul 7 2013 7:03AM
Hi
I have a Porsche 914 and VW bug, your harness is too short, I see you also have a 10' harness but to hide the cable this is also too short. Do you sell and extension cable or is it OK for me to cut and splice in my own extension cable.
Thanks.

BTW this will also be to short for the 911 guys as well.
Thanks Mark

Mon, Jul 8 2013 4:36PM - staff
We do not offer an extension cable, however you shouldn't have any issues extending the harness. Just make certain that the wires are connected in the same place, and you have a solid solder job. You can purchase an additional harness here: http://plxdevices.com/product_info.php?id=ACCEWBHARNESS

[worn]

How did you mount it?
Was the harness long enough?

I have a plate in the dash with holes cut out for gauges. I took the innovate gauge and replaced with the AEM. The stock harness was long enough. I even had a lot of slack. My headers exit on the passenger side. I ran the wire through the tunnel then over the engine, out the rear tin then to the bung behind th epassenger cv joint.

Are you running a console?

I have the same question in at PLX, also asked if it's OK to cut and splice, but no reply so far.

I don't have a console and want to do the ashtray mount trick, just wondering if you had enough slack to run the loop to the front of the foot well and back up into the dash.
I'll be running a /6 so it would have to reach right back to the muffler area.


Just wondering if it has enough harness? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)

I hope to put one on a 6 someday too. I don't have a console, and I tested the wire to see if it would run the length and back up the underside. Yes, it does. I may do the ashtray too. The O2 sensor is at the extreme rear of the car, so it oughta work. I went with the cute turquoise color because it reminded me of Stewart Warner gauge lights. Why they put all the trouble into this I am not sure. Guess matching is nice.

[tornik550]

I have a plate in the dash where the radio goes. I just mounted the gauge there. I ran the wire down behind the front firewall, through the tunnel, over the engine, out the back of the engine and too the exhaust at the right rear of the car. That was all with the stock harness. I also had some slack left over. I contacted AEM about splicing however I have not heard back.

[iamchappy]

I removed the sensor today, cleaned it up and blew it out before doing a free air calibration. the Lc-1 did work better today but pegs at 18 for a few seconds in between shifts when on boost, before returning to normal operation. It could be because of flames shooting out my tail pipe but dont know for sure if flames are, may need to hook up the Go-Pro to check on that......

[worn]

I removed the sensor today, cleaned it up and blew it out before doing a free air calibration. the Lc-1 did work better today but pegs at 18 for a few seconds in between shifts when on boost, before returning to normal operation. It could be because of flames shooting out my tail pipe but dont know for sure if flames are, may need to hook up the Go-Pro to check on that......

Not all of can boast flames from boost I am afraid. Wish I could...

[Mark Henry]

I removed the sensor today, cleaned it up and blew it out before doing a free air calibration. the Lc-1 did work better today but pegs at 18 for a few seconds in between shifts when on boost, before returning to normal operation. It could be because of flames shooting out my tail pipe but dont know for sure if flames are, may need to hook up the Go-Pro to check on that......

All that matters with any wideband is the reading under load. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif)

[tornik550]

I just received a response from AEM about splicing the wires. They said it is ok to add 2-3 feet however not much more than that. Of coarse, also make sure the wires are well crimped.

[Justinp71]

Its been a couple months, any updates?

I like the AEM unit and all the tuners seem to rave about it. I also really like the colored LED's so you can see your AFR without having to stare at the gauge while your flooring it! I think I'll be ordering one...

[tornik550]

Its been a couple months, any updates?

I like the AEM unit and all the tuners seem to rave about it. I also really like the colored LED's so you can see your AFR without having to stare at the gauge while your flooring it! I think I'll be ordering one...

I have been using it for the past few months. I highly recommend it. The air fuel gauge is no longer something that I think about cause it works perfectly without any problems. BUY ONE!!!

[DBCooper]

I had an Innovate LC1 that crapped out after a month in the car, and I also replaced it with the AEG, which has worked as advertised. A friend has just strongly recommended the new Innovate LC2, which I intend to try. Supposed to cure the problems of the LC1 and add some features beyond the AEG. I'm interested enough to give it a try and will let you know how it works out.