 Original battery ground bolt location?, Current affairs |
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| mikesmith |
 Nov 23 2013, 12:35 PM
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#1
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Member  Group: Members Posts: 202 Joined: 5-September 13 From: SF Member No.: 16,354 Region Association: Northern California  |
Sorting out the PO & Renegade's ... interesting wiring and I'm looking at the ground path.
Starting at the battery negative terminal, there's a cable runs to the back of the alternator pivot bolt (not to the chassis), then there's the transaxle ground cable away back at the back end of things. I'm fairly sure that this is part of why I am only seeing 10V at the dash with fans and headlights on (lots of ground path resistance). Where was the battery ground originally connected? Worst case I can just run another 2ga cable down to the transaxle ground, but that seems a bit silly. If I can, I'd like to find a well-grounded bolt nearer the battery... Thanks for any suggestions. I think a 105A alternator is also in my near future. |
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Replies(1 - 8)
| TheCabinetmaker |
Nov 23 2013, 01:07 PM
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#2
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I drive my car everyday Group: Members Posts: 8,304 Joined: 8-May 03 From: Tulsa, Ok. Member No.: 666 |
Original ground point is on the body just above the battery. Cable is about 18" long
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| ThePaintedMan |
Nov 23 2013, 02:22 PM
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#3
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 3,886 Joined: 6-September 11 From: St. Petersburg, FL Member No.: 13,527 Region Association: South East States 
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Mine is grounded with a negative cable that goes to the top trans/motor bolt. It seems to work, but at some point I need to replace the lug that goes through the body which serves as a ground, as Curt mentioned.
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| 914itis |
Nov 23 2013, 02:39 PM
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#4
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 2,892 Joined: 9-October 10 From: New York City Member No.: 12,256 Region Association: North East States |
QUOTE(ThePaintedMan @ Nov 23 2013, 03:22 PM)  Mine is grounded with a negative cable that goes to the top trans/motor bolt. It seems to work, but at some point I need to replace the lug that goes through the body which serves as a ground, as Curt mentioned. And no electrical issues? You need both. |
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| ThePaintedMan |
Nov 23 2013, 04:35 PM
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#5
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 3,886 Joined: 6-September 11 From: St. Petersburg, FL Member No.: 13,527 Region Association: South East States
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QUOTE(914itis @ Nov 23 2013, 03:39 PM) QUOTE(ThePaintedMan @ Nov 23 2013, 03:22 PM) Mine is grounded with a negative cable that goes to the top trans/motor bolt. It seems to work, but at some point I need to replace the lug that goes through the body which serves as a ground, as Curt mentioned. And no electrical issues? You need both. Sorry, my fault Paul, should have been more clear. I don't have a picture, but the negative battery cable runs to the long engine-to-transmission bolt behind the #3 cylinder, exactly opposite of the one holding the top of the starter on. I still also have the transmission ground strap as well. No electrical issues....for the most part. The ones I do have are my own damn fault (need a fog light relay). Eventually I'll find something that will work to replace the broken-off original negative ground above the battery. But for now, this works. |
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| r_towle |
Nov 23 2013, 04:39 PM
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#6
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Custom Member Group: Members Posts: 24,591 Joined: 9-January 03 From: Taxachusetts Member No.: 124 Region Association: North East States
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The majority of the electrical system uses the body as ground.
This is why the battery is attached to the body and not the motor. If you are having starter issues, fix the starter or get a new tranny ground strap. If your alternator is not charging properly, fix that. I ran an extra ground wire to the starter bolt, that worked for me, but I left the ground attached to the body. Everything aside from the starter and the fuel injectors is grounded to the body. The lug is right next to the negative terminal, on the inner fender, can't see it unless you look up under the sheet metal deck lid shaped piece. |
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| 914itis |
Nov 23 2013, 06:58 PM
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#7
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 2,892 Joined: 9-October 10 From: New York City Member No.: 12,256 Region Association: North East States |
I was under the impression that the car would have issues without the short ground to the body.
The engine is isolated from the chassis with the mounts . As the car moves, vibration would weaken the ground. I don't think the ground is adequAte coming from the engine / transmission. Direct ground to body is the secures way My 2 cents |
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| mikesmith |
Nov 24 2013, 10:09 PM
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#8
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Member Group: Members Posts: 202 Joined: 5-September 13 From: SF Member No.: 16,354 Region Association: Northern California |
Thanks for the pointer - once I knew where to look, it was just a matter of cleaning off the paint that some PO splattered all over it...
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| Mike Bellis |
Nov 24 2013, 10:32 PM
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#9
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Resident Electrician Group: Members Posts: 8,345 Joined: 22-June 09 From: Midlothian TX Member No.: 10,496 Region Association: None 
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QUOTE(mikesmith @ Nov 23 2013, 10:35 AM) Sorting out the PO & Renegade's ... interesting wiring and I'm looking at the ground path. Starting at the battery negative terminal, there's a cable runs to the back of the alternator pivot bolt (not to the chassis), then there's the transaxle ground cable away back at the back end of things. I'm fairly sure that this is part of why I am only seeing 10V at the dash with fans and headlights on (lots of ground path resistance). Where was the battery ground originally connected? Worst case I can just run another 2ga cable down to the transaxle ground, but that seems a bit silly. If I can, I'd like to find a well-grounded bolt nearer the battery... Thanks for any suggestions. I think a 105A alternator is also in my near future. I have a 180 Amp Powermaster Alternator that fits GM for sale. Only about 2000 miles on it before I swapped out my engine... |
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