Electronic Ignition - which is best? Options

[Alfieg23]

I just purchased a 1972 with a replacement 1.8L engine with L-Jetronic Fuel Injection. I want to change the OEM distributor to electronic ignition but don't know which would be best. I've been reading a lot on this site as well as Google and have come up with three (Mallory Unilite, Petronix SVDA and Hot Spark SVDA. Is there a consensus as to which is best? Thanks in advance for your help.

[Mark Henry]

I just purchased a 1972 with a replacement 1.8L engine with L-Jetronic Fuel Injection. I want to change the OEM distributor to electronic ignition but don't know which would be best. I've been reading a lot on this site as well as Google and have come up with three (Mallory Unilite, Petronix SVDA and Hot Spark SVDA. Is there a consensus as to which is best? Thanks in advance for your help.

Keeping the L-jet then keep the L-jet dizzy, it's one of the best.
Just stick a pertronix in it, or keep the points and get an MSD.
Points will never burn out with a MSD.

[Alfieg23]

I just purchased a 1972 with a replacement 1.8L engine with L-Jetronic Fuel Injection. I want to change the OEM distributor to electronic ignition but don't know which would be best. I've been reading a lot on this site as well as Google and have come up with three (Mallory Unilite, Petronix SVDA and Hot Spark SVDA. Is there a consensus as to which is best? Thanks in advance for your help.

Keeping the L-jet then keep the L-jet dizzy, it's one of the best.
Just stick a pertronix in it, or keep the points and get an MSD.
Points will never burn out with a MSD.

Thanks, Mark Henry.

[Cap'n Krusty]

They may not ever burn out, but the notoriously weak rubbing block will fail and the points will close up, altering both the dwell and the timing. Besides points, my next favorite is a Compufire. A Pertronix drop in unit, despite it's abysmal failure rate, is FAR better than the Hot Spark setup. No way would I abandon the stock distributor, especially because the L-jet in your car requires a vacuum retard function to properly set the timing and to provide the correct idle speed and tip-in response.

The Cap'n

[Alfieg23]

They may not ever burn out, but the notoriously weak rubbing block will fail and the points will close up, altering both the dwell and the timing. Besides points, my next favorite is a Compufire. A Pertronix drop in unit, despite it's abysmal failure rate, is FAR better than the Hot Spark setup. No way would I abandon the stock distributor, especially because the L-jet in your car requires a vacuum retard function to properly set the timing and to provide the correct idle speed and tip-in response.

The Cap'n

Thanks, Cap'n Krusty. What about spark plugs and wires? I was thinking of using Bosch plugs and the 8.5mm Magnecor wires. The car currently has the plug wires that connect to the plastic tube that fits onto the plugs and has the round rubber gasket to seal the opening in the engine tin. Thanks for your help.

[SKL1]

What about Permatune? Had one on '71 for MANY years with no issues.

[Black22]

No way would I abandon the stock distributor, especially because the L-jet in your car requires a vacuum retard function to properly set the timing and to provide the correct idle speed and tip-in response.

The Cap'n

Sorry, slight hijack, but Cap'n aren't we supposed to disconnect vacuum lines to set timing? Why would we need the retard function to set timing? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

[Starlack]

No way would I abandon the stock distributor, especially because the L-jet in your car requires a vacuum retard function to properly set the timing and to provide the correct idle speed and tip-in response.

The Cap'n

Sorry, slight hijack, but Cap'n aren't we supposed to disconnect vacuum lines to set timing? Why would we need the retard function to set timing? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

Hello
how about the 123 Ignition Ignition System.?
I have Installed three years ago and works great.
These are available for cars with or without injection.

[ClayPerrine]

Years ago, I modded the pickup coil and ignitor from a Toyota 22R motor so that it would fit in the stock 914 distributor. All I had to do was bend the mounting bracket to fit it in the smaller distributor, and take 1/4 inch off the bottom of the stock 914 rotor to clear the pickup coil. . It triggered right off the point cam with no mods. It was an incredibly reliable ignition system, and the parts were available from FLAPS. Plus I got the stuff for free off replacement engines I put in for customers.

I just salvaged the ignition coil with the ignitor, and stripped the pickup coil out of the distributor.


This is the ignition coil with the ignitor.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/thumbs4.ebaystatic.com-1143-1391105945.1.jpg)

They also make a square coil and ignitor.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i70.photobucket.com-1143-1391105946.2.jpg)

Both work exactly the same.



Pickup coil:
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/thumbs3.ebaystatic.com-1143-1391105946.3.jpg)

Use the Toyota spec for the pickup coil clearance at the top of one of the point cam lobes. The rest is easy.