Home  |  Forums  |  914 Info  |  Blogs
 
914World.com - The fastest growing online 914 community!
 
Porsche, and the Porsche crest are registered trademarks of Dr. Ing. h.c. F. Porsche AG. This site is not affiliated with Porsche in any way.
Its only purpose is to provide an online forum for car enthusiasts. All other trademarks are property of their respective owners.
 

Welcome Guest ( Log In | Register )

> OT: plank flooring plugs
chunger
post Jan 22 2005, 06:32 PM
Post #1


Member
**

Group: Members
Posts: 409
Joined: 11-January 03
From: Albany, CA
Member No.: 133
Hello,

I'm intalling some 4" x .75" plank flooring in purple heart and was wondering if anyone know where I can find counterbore plugs for the screw holes.

I've been scouring the internet and unable to come up with a source.

-Chung
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
 
 Reply to this topicStart new topic
Replies(1 - 12)
Lou W
post Jan 22 2005, 07:16 PM
Post #2


"Here Kitty Kitty" my ass......
****

Group: Members
Posts: 4,109
Joined: 9-May 04
From: Roseburg, OR.
Member No.: 2,039
Region Association: Spain
Wood working right? try these
Plug Kutter
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
r_towle
post Jan 22 2005, 07:29 PM
Post #3


Custom Member
***************

Group: Members
Posts: 24,594
Joined: 9-January 03
From: Taxachusetts
Member No.: 124
Region Association: North East States
The only way to get face grained plugs is to use a plug cutter.

If your floor is nly 4" wide, why are you screwing it through the face???

there are better ways to install the flooring that will hide the fasteners i.e blind nailing, blind screwing.

If you are set upon using screws through the face of the wood, you will need to get a drill press (a cheap one from HD will do) and then get quite a few plug cutters.

Also, anytime you work with Purple heart, cutting, machining, any tool, it will dull very quickly and the blade/cutter will get gummed up.

Clean tools and blades often with Alchohol when working with purple heart.
Get like ten plug cutters, they are cheap, and made with tool steel that purple heart likes to snack on.

Rich
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
TimT
post Jan 22 2005, 07:42 PM
Post #4


retired
****

Group: Members
Posts: 4,033
Joined: 18-February 03
From: Wantagh, NY
Member No.: 313
what they said (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/agree.gif)

get a plug cutter..

I re-teaked the deck of my dads boat once, and we countersunk all the screw heads, and used a plug cutter to make plugs from scrap pieces of teak


purple heart..... some floor (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/wink.gif)
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
chunger
post Jan 23 2005, 01:06 AM
Post #5


Member
**

Group: Members
Posts: 409
Joined: 11-January 03
From: Albany, CA
Member No.: 133
I do have a blind cleat nailer, but I read that for floors 4" wide or over, it is preferrable to also screw the floors down at the edges to make sure they don't move.

Just want to be sure. . . 4" was not my 1st choice. I would have gone narrower, but it was a good deal for the material.


-'Chung
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
IronHillRestorations
post Jan 23 2005, 09:15 AM
Post #6


I. I. R. C.
*****

Group: Members
Posts: 6,732
Joined: 18-March 03
From: West TN
Member No.: 439
Region Association: None
You might try Woodworkers Supply.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
mercdev
post Jan 23 2005, 03:58 PM
Post #7


Read, search, then read some more
**

Group: Members
Posts: 166
Joined: 19-July 04
From: Overland Park, KS
Member No.: 2,374
Using Wood Plugs To Fill Screw Holes
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
scotty b
post Jan 23 2005, 04:24 PM
Post #8


rust free you say ?
***************

Group: Members
Posts: 16,375
Joined: 7-January 05
From: richmond, Va.
Member No.: 3,419
Region Association: None
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/ohmy.gif) I would like to see a pic of that floor, I don't think I have ever seen someone do one in purple heart! Sounds kewl though! (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/clap.gif)
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
Bleyseng
post Jan 23 2005, 05:34 PM
Post #9


Aircooled Baby!
**********

Group: Members
Posts: 13,035
Joined: 27-December 02
From: Seattle, Washington (for now)
Member No.: 24
Region Association: Pacific Northwest
Plug cutter and make em.

I agree lets see some pics!


Geoff (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/biggrin.gif) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/agree.gif)
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
r_towle
post Jan 23 2005, 06:22 PM
Post #10


Custom Member
***************

Group: Members
Posts: 24,594
Joined: 9-January 03
From: Taxachusetts
Member No.: 124
Region Association: North East States
If the flooring is tongue and groove and if the moisture content is low enough, and if the wood has been in the house where it is going for about three days to aclimate to the house, you can blind nail it like any other strip flooring.

Lots of ifs, they are really important.

In the northeast, we use either tar paper or resin paper to prevent moisture from coming up from below the flor and to assist in stopping any drafts from coming through the floor.

It is highly reccomended, though not always done that you lay the flooring perpendicular to the floor framing, or floor joists.

If you do not need to use paper under the floors (heated space below) then you could also use construction adhesive to assist in making sure the floor will stay down.

Up to you how you put it down, just watch the moisture content of the wood prior to use. Lots of the imported wood has gotten to much moisture from the boat trip and needs to be brought back to normal...can be done with patience, could also explain why it was cheap.

This is a form of mahoghany and therefore will expand and contract quite a bit with moisture..

Did I mention the moisture content??? Its the key.

Get a good quality meter from your local woodworking store and take random checks of the entire load.

Rich
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
TJB/914
post Jan 23 2005, 06:43 PM
Post #11


Mid-Engn.
****

Group: Members
Posts: 4,337
Joined: 24-February 03
From: Plymouth & Petoskey, MI
Member No.: 346
Region Association: Upper MidWest
Rich & Chunger

You are so correct moisture content is important. Just got my remodeling project started with 5"x3/4" walnut flooring. We started after the moisture content was under 10%. Also used full trowel adhesive & had to keep the wood inside the room for (2-3) weeks to adjust to room conditions (very very important). The next step is (4) coats of Tong Oil with buffing btwn coats.

Again, moisture is critical.

Tom
Pic of floor in process before Tong Oil


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
scruz914
post Jan 23 2005, 07:22 PM
Post #12


Senior Member
***

Group: Members
Posts: 815
Joined: 26-February 04
From: Santa Cruz, CA
Member No.: 1,724
Tom,

Nice job on that floor. It will be a shame to put rugs and furniture over it.

Rich or Tom,

If the flooring is tongue and groove would you recommend gluing the joint? Or is that something that is only done with a floating floor? Seems to me gluing the joint when blind nailing would help keep them together.

I too would like to see some pictures of the floor.

-Jeff
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
TJB/914
post Jan 23 2005, 07:37 PM
Post #13


Mid-Engn.
****

Group: Members
Posts: 4,337
Joined: 24-February 03
From: Plymouth & Petoskey, MI
Member No.: 346
Region Association: Upper MidWest
Jeff,

What I (my contr) did was screw down 1/2" plwood over the existing 3/4"? or 7/8"? sub-floor then used a sander to knock off & level the joints. After that they used a grout to fill in a few low spots. The trowel adhesive was trowled over the plywood as the floor (wood) was being installed. As the tongue & groove flooring was installed they had a big F-hammer type thingie that pushed the boards together. Nailing was done about every 8" into the tongue/goove joint. Forgot to say, after the first rough sanding they again trowled filler (walnut color) into any open cracks/grooves then finished sanding. Big guys with arms & shoulders like apes. It took them (3) days to lay down about 1200 sq ft. of flooring.

Tom
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
« Next Oldest · 914World Garage · Next Newest »
 

Reply to this topicStart new topic
1 User(s) are reading this topic (1 Guests and 0 Anonymous Users)
0 Members:

 

Display Mode: Switch to: Standard · Linear+ · Switch to: Outline

Track this topic · Email this topic · Print this topic · Subscribe to this forum

- Lo-Fi Version Time is now: 17th June 2024 - 12:13 AM
Invision Power Board v9.1.4 © 2024  IPS, Inc.
All rights reserved 914World.com © since 2002
914World.com is the fastest growing online 914 community!
We have it all, classifieds, events, forums, vendors, parts, autocross, racing, technical articles, events calendar, newsletter, restoration, gallery, archives, history and more for your Porsche 914 ...