Exhaust stud removal |
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Exhaust stud removal |
SKL1 |
Aug 1 2014, 05:30 PM
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#1
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,602 Joined: 19-February 11 From: north Scottsdale Member No.: 12,732 Region Association: Upper MidWest |
Putting in the header pipes this afternoon- driver's side goes right in no issues. Discover one of the studs on passenger side is stripped. Of course I didn't realize this when rebuilding the engine.
Any ideas on how to back the stud out of the head? Not a lot of room in there to work... TIA- search function didn't help much... Found a Lisle stud removal tool but don't think there is enough room to fit it in there. Trying to think what would fit that would grip the stud tight enough to twist it out. When removing the nuts a few years ago in the beginning of the restoration (yes, it's taking that long) a couple studs came out with the nut- wish that would have happened here!! |
914Sixer |
Aug 1 2014, 06:06 PM
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#2
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914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 8,897 Joined: 17-January 05 From: San Angelo Texas Member No.: 3,457 Region Association: Southwest Region |
I have a 8mm stud socket. I also have 2 different larger removal tools. When all else fails, try the double nut trick depending on how much tread you have.
Attached image(s) |
stugray |
Aug 1 2014, 06:15 PM
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#3
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 3,825 Joined: 17-September 09 From: Longmont, CO Member No.: 10,819 Region Association: None |
With a shop like that do you have welder?
We used to weld just a tab of scrap steel to fasteners then back them out with a crescent. But have also had the opposite problem ( them not staying in |
Cap'n Krusty |
Aug 1 2014, 06:46 PM
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#4
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Cap'n Krusty Group: Members Posts: 10,794 Joined: 24-June 04 From: Santa Maria, CA Member No.: 2,246 Region Association: Central California |
Weld a nut on it, and be sure you have good penetration! I've never seen an extractor that will work on a T4 head. Once you've done that, apply heat to the base and go for it. Tighten a bit, loosen a bit, go back and forth til' you get it. Heat the head, not the stud, as much as possible.
The Cap'n |
SKL1 |
Aug 1 2014, 08:05 PM
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#5
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,602 Joined: 19-February 11 From: north Scottsdale Member No.: 12,732 Region Association: Upper MidWest |
Tried welding a few years ago when restoring a 356- found out I'll let someone else do welding (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
That socket deal you have sixer looks interesting- where'd you find that? Otherwise I'll have to get someone to bring a welder over as the car isn't exactly easy to transport!! Double nut trick didn't work as threads aren't good enough... tried that first (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) |
914Sixer |
Aug 1 2014, 08:26 PM
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#6
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914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 8,897 Joined: 17-January 05 From: San Angelo Texas Member No.: 3,457 Region Association: Southwest Region |
I do not remember where I got it. Amazon shows to have one for $15.
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larryM |
Aug 1 2014, 10:28 PM
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#7
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emoze Group: Members Posts: 891 Joined: 1-January 03 From: mid- California Member No.: 65 Region Association: Northern California |
Amazon
GearWrench 41760D 8 Piece SAE/Metric Stud Removal Set by GearWrench $86.15 $47.16 I have the whole set - so should you |
Cap'n Krusty |
Aug 2 2014, 09:44 AM
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#8
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Cap'n Krusty Group: Members Posts: 10,794 Joined: 24-June 04 From: Santa Maria, CA Member No.: 2,246 Region Association: Central California |
Amazon GearWrench 41760D 8 Piece SAE/Metric Stud Removal Set by GearWrench $86.15 $47.16 I have the whole set - so should you Measure the OD of the 8mm one. I have a set of those (mine are Stahlwille) and there's not even close to enough room to use one on a 914 exhaust stud. The Cap'n |
mgp4591 |
Aug 2 2014, 09:50 AM
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#9
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914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 5,380 Joined: 1-August 12 From: Salt Lake City Ut Member No.: 14,748 Region Association: Intermountain Region |
If you go welding a nut to the stud then heating the base, I'd recommend then cooling it with water until you can put your lips on it. The metals heat at different rates being aluminum and steel- if it's not cooled you stand the chance of the steel pulling the aluminum threads with it. When they're cooled it also happens at different rates and it usually helps the metals break free of each other. You may even have to do it a couple of times and like Cap'n sez, work it back and forth gently to get some movement and take it easy.
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MrLeeS |
Aug 2 2014, 10:03 AM
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#10
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Member Group: Members Posts: 62 Joined: 25-April 09 From: Albuquerque, NM Member No.: 10,300 Region Association: Southwest Region |
If you go welding a nut to the stud then heating the base, I'd recommend then cooling it with water until you can put your lips on it. The metals heat at different rates being aluminum and steel- if it's not cooled you stand the chance of the steel pulling the aluminum threads with it. When they're cooled it also happens at different rates and it usually helps the metals break free of each other. You may even have to do it a couple of times and like Cap'n sez, work it back and forth gently to get some movement and take it easy. Try explaining that to the wife when she sees you doing it (IMG:style_emoticons/default/av-943.gif) |
Mark Henry |
Aug 2 2014, 10:05 AM
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#11
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that's what I do! Group: Members Posts: 20,065 Joined: 27-December 02 From: Port Hope, Ontario Member No.: 26 Region Association: Canada |
when heating quenching often works, heat it then quench it with cold water, repeat several times. then do the weld nut trick.
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mgp4591 |
Aug 2 2014, 10:11 AM
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#12
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914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 5,380 Joined: 1-August 12 From: Salt Lake City Ut Member No.: 14,748 Region Association: Intermountain Region |
when heating quenching often works, heat it then quench it with cold water, repeat several times. then do the weld nut trick. The weld nut trick also adds heat to the stud, so you want to weld first then let that cool to anneal properly then do the base heating thing... done it many times with success. When it fails, it really sucks cuz it tends to snap the stud at the base. And no, I'm not explaining that to your wife... That's your job (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif) |
stateofidleness |
Aug 2 2014, 11:37 AM
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#13
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 810 Joined: 1-September 07 From: Canyon Lake, Texas! Member No.: 8,065 Region Association: None |
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SKL1 |
Aug 2 2014, 01:02 PM
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#14
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,602 Joined: 19-February 11 From: north Scottsdale Member No.: 12,732 Region Association: Upper MidWest |
I have a pit- no lift. Those columns are support columns for the garage addition... I put the pit in MANY years ago before lifts were as popular as they are now. If I was doing it now, I'd get a nice 2 post lift so I could lift with the wheels off.
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