Home  |  Forums  |  914 Info  |  Blogs
 
914World.com - The fastest growing online 914 community!
 
Porsche, and the Porsche crest are registered trademarks of Dr. Ing. h.c. F. Porsche AG. This site is not affiliated with Porsche in any way.
Its only purpose is to provide an online forum for car enthusiasts. All other trademarks are property of their respective owners.
 

Welcome Guest ( Log In | Register )

> Drivetrain drop in folding car...
Tbone425
post May 31 2016, 07:54 PM
Post #1


Newbie
*

Group: Members
Posts: 43
Joined: 15-August 15
From: AZ/WA
Member No.: 19,065
Region Association: Southwest Region



Looking for some advise on dropping eng/trans in a car that is soft in the middle. For obvious reasons I don't like the thought of having any part of me under it. Here is what I was thinking, I might lift the back, Jack stand and wood block every hard point. This would give me some safety...at least to some degree while I made all of the enderside disconnects.

Then I thought I would remove the rear wheels, slide a pallet under and then drop the car down over the pallet and remove the entire package including suspension and trailing arms. I figured that I could also cut it out from the top if needed, as the body is gone.

Any thoughts or suggestions? Thanks folks!
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
 
Reply to this topicStart new topic
Replies(1 - 17)
r_towle
post May 31 2016, 08:22 PM
Post #2


Custom Member
***************

Group: Members
Posts: 24,591
Joined: 9-January 03
From: Taxachusetts
Member No.: 124
Region Association: North East States



If the body is junk, cut both rear tranny bolts from behind with car on ground.
Cut front engine mounts and inner suspension mounts from above
Cut out suspension mount from beside the car
Remove upper shock bolt
Lift car off motor
Cut shifter rod of required
Lift car, drag motor out from behind

Been there done that
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
Tbone425
post May 31 2016, 10:45 PM
Post #3


Newbie
*

Group: Members
Posts: 43
Joined: 15-August 15
From: AZ/WA
Member No.: 19,065
Region Association: Southwest Region



QUOTE(r_towle @ May 31 2016, 07:22 PM) *

If the body is junk, cut both rear tranny bolts from behind with car on ground.
Cut front engine mounts and inner suspension mounts from above
Cut out suspension mount from beside the car
Remove upper shock bolt
Lift car off motor
Cut shifter rod of required
Lift car, drag motor out from behind

Been there done that


Sounds like that might be the best route. Don't trust being in this rig...let alone under it.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
injunmort
post Jun 1 2016, 07:24 AM
Post #4


Senior Member
***

Group: Members
Posts: 1,024
Joined: 12-April 10
From: sugarloaf ny
Member No.: 11,604
Region Association: North East States



having just done this. the car i cut up, folded over as soon as i lifted it. i set it back down, removed the rear glass. i jacked up the back of the car under the bump to get more or less level. i used two tie down straps from the targa bar to rear bumper to stabilize it then removed the engine, trans etc as normal. just as precautions, when i worked under the car there were jack stands under suspension and rear bumper.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
EdwardBlume
post Jun 1 2016, 07:34 AM
Post #5


914 Wizard
**********

Group: Members
Posts: 12,338
Joined: 2-January 03
From: SLO
Member No.: 81
Region Association: Central California



I use 10x10 wood blocks under the wheels. Lots of room for floor jacks and lowering the motor.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
r_towle
post Jun 1 2016, 07:47 AM
Post #6


Custom Member
***************

Group: Members
Posts: 24,591
Joined: 9-January 03
From: Taxachusetts
Member No.: 124
Region Association: North East States



I cut the car in half first....right in front of the firewall.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
rgalla9146
post Jun 1 2016, 10:18 AM
Post #7


Advanced Member
****

Group: Members
Posts: 4,569
Joined: 23-November 05
From: Paramus NJ
Member No.: 5,176
Region Association: None



If it breaks at the jack point area I'd use four jackstands.
Two under the body at the front engine bar mounts and one at each rear corner.
If the front remains on the ground that's just fine.
Remove the drivetrain in the conventional way safely.
Sawsall work is often unsafe and unpredictable.
My .02 cents
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
Gunn1
post Jun 1 2016, 01:32 PM
Post #8


Senior Member
***

Group: Members
Posts: 1,021
Joined: 14-February 16
From: Minnesota
Member No.: 19,670
Region Association: None



Just did this on one of my 72's

Jacked the vehicle up with 8x8x 6 foot long box stock running long wise, one end
Cribbed with 2x4 under crankcase the other end engaging central part of the floor board (directly under tunnel where fuel line runs) set jack stands at rear jack points or wherever you can find some meat in those areas.Then after car is high enough place 10x10x 30" cribs, lower car until the tires are sitting firmly on the cribs, adjusting jack stands accordingly as you lower the car. The idea here is to support the area that is folding.
All of this also takes place with the front wheels on the ground and chocked. The rear tires up on the cribs should also be restrained from rolling as well.

Once you have this completed take the Jack and long box section out and remove engine / tranny as normal.

After completing the drop... individually lift one side enough to pull the jack stand out and put a car ramp under the tire on that side. Then do the same thing on the other side.
Unchock the front tires and with a little push the car will roll right down the ramps.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
Tbone425
post Jun 1 2016, 02:24 PM
Post #9


Newbie
*

Group: Members
Posts: 43
Joined: 15-August 15
From: AZ/WA
Member No.: 19,065
Region Association: Southwest Region



QUOTE(OU812 @ Jun 1 2016, 12:32 PM) *

Just did this on one of my 72's

Jacked the vehicle up with 8x8x 6 foot long box stock running long wise, one end
Cribbed with 2x4 under crankcase the other end engaging central part of the floor board (directly under tunnel where fuel line runs) set jack stands at rear jack points or wherever you can find some meat in those areas.Then after car is high enough place 10x10x 30" cribs, lower car until the tires are sitting firmly on the cribs, adjusting jack stands accordingly as you lower the car. The idea here is to support the area that is folding.
All of this also takes place with the front wheels on the ground and chocked. The rear tires up on the cribs should also be restrained from rolling as well.

Once you have this completed take the Jack and long box section out and remove engine / tranny as normal.

After completing the drop... individually lift one side enough to pull the jack stand out and put a car ramp under the tire on that side. Then do the same thing on the other side.
Unchock the front tires and with a little push the car will roll right down the ramps.

This sounds like a good plan. Still thinking I might just set it down and cut it out. Most of the rear quarters are gone already. I'll post some pics after I get the car in my garage.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
GaroldShaffer
post Jun 1 2016, 02:36 PM
Post #10


You bought another 914?
*****

Group: Benefactors
Posts: 7,624
Joined: 27-June 03
From: Portage, IN
Member No.: 865
Region Association: None



keep the doors closed. I run a HEAVY DUTY strap (or two) from the a arms up over the front trunk, to the targa bar and ratchet tight. Once in the air Just follow the usual procedure for dropping a enegine.

I had a 73 on my midrise lift like this for well over two months (maybe longer) before I dropped the engine.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
MartyYeoman
post Jun 1 2016, 06:14 PM
Post #11


Senior Member
***

Group: Members
Posts: 1,520
Joined: 19-June 03
From: San Ramon, CA
Member No.: 839
Region Association: Northern California



I like Garold's approach. Simple and effective.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
Tbone425
post Jun 1 2016, 06:43 PM
Post #12


Newbie
*

Group: Members
Posts: 43
Joined: 15-August 15
From: AZ/WA
Member No.: 19,065
Region Association: Southwest Region



QUOTE(Marty Yeoman @ Jun 1 2016, 05:14 PM) *

I like Garold's approach. Simple and effective.

I like this approach too but...Ready?.....wait for it...the doors won't close.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
Mike Bellis
post Jun 1 2016, 06:56 PM
Post #13


Resident Electrician
*****

Group: Members
Posts: 8,345
Joined: 22-June 09
From: Midlothian TX
Member No.: 10,496
Region Association: None



(IMG:style_emoticons/default/thisthreadisworthlesswithoutpics.gif)

Attached Image
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
r_towle
post Jun 1 2016, 06:57 PM
Post #14


Custom Member
***************

Group: Members
Posts: 24,591
Joined: 9-January 03
From: Taxachusetts
Member No.: 124
Region Association: North East States



Take saws all with long metal blade and cut car at firewall all the way across.
Trust me, you will enjoy it.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
dlee6204
post Jun 1 2016, 06:57 PM
Post #15


Howdy
****

Group: Members
Posts: 2,162
Joined: 30-April 06
From: Burnsville, NC
Member No.: 5,956



QUOTE(Tbone425 @ Jun 1 2016, 08:43 PM) *

QUOTE(Marty Yeoman @ Jun 1 2016, 05:14 PM) *

I like Garold's approach. Simple and effective.

I like this approach too but...Ready?.....wait for it...the doors won't close.



Okay... Use another strap to hold the doors tight. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif)
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
GaroldShaffer
post Jun 1 2016, 09:23 PM
Post #16


You bought another 914?
*****

Group: Benefactors
Posts: 7,624
Joined: 27-June 03
From: Portage, IN
Member No.: 865
Region Association: None



QUOTE(Tbone425 @ Jun 1 2016, 07:43 PM) *

QUOTE(Marty Yeoman @ Jun 1 2016, 05:14 PM) *

I like Garold's approach. Simple and effective.

I like this approach too but...Ready?.....wait for it...the doors won't close.


find some place solid on each side (if there is any metal left) jack up the side and when the car "bends" open close /slam the door so it will catch. Go to the other side of the car and repeat.

While cutting the car in half is fun and all, I find trying to remove the engine & trans easier if the car is whole (what is left of it). I have had parts cars in the past that the doors would not close or catch, here again a nice heavy duty strap to help pull them closed always seemed to work for me.

YMMV - good luck
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
Tbone425
post Jun 1 2016, 09:30 PM
Post #17


Newbie
*

Group: Members
Posts: 43
Joined: 15-August 15
From: AZ/WA
Member No.: 19,065
Region Association: Southwest Region



QUOTE(r_towle @ Jun 1 2016, 05:57 PM) *

Take saws all with long metal blade and cut car at firewall all the way across.
Trust me, you will enjoy it.

I bet I wil,,..
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
Tbone425
post Jun 3 2016, 10:42 PM
Post #18


Newbie
*

Group: Members
Posts: 43
Joined: 15-August 15
From: AZ/WA
Member No.: 19,065
Region Association: Southwest Region



I think you'll be able to dance on the roll bar when I'm done with my safety precautions... Just don't trip over the shop lift arm with a chain looped through the rear window hole :-)
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post

Reply to this topicStart new topic
1 User(s) are reading this topic (1 Guests and 0 Anonymous Users)
0 Members:

 



- Lo-Fi Version Time is now: 10th June 2024 - 12:50 AM