A little MORE OT - update, Shop Talk, what to build? Options

[Gunn1]

Figuring out a floor plan for a new Shop Building. Don't have a unlimited budget so trying to pre plan carefully to get the most value, while not making to many mistakes.

If you were going to build your "dream" shop, or already have one, what do you think should be mandatory, or a feature(s) of yours you wouldn't want to do without.

[mepstein]

Don't make anything permanent at first and make the air hose really long. Your going to make changes.

[snakemain]

Make sure your ceiling and doors are high enough to accommodate lifts and different vehicles. And you can't have too many power outlets.

[URY914]

Put a big sink in. See if you can find an old stainless steel sink from somewhere. Restaurant supply places have them.

[URY914]

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/forumdi...&order=desc

[Gunn1]

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/forumdi...&order=desc

Thanks for the link URY

[jtprettyman]

URY914 beat me to it, but this place will be your friend:

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=3

[URY914]

There is almost too much info there. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)

[JoeDees]

Make sure your ceiling and doors are high enough to accommodate lifts and different vehicles. And you can't have too many power outlets.

This is a big one, my garage in KY is kinda low which requires us to do virtually all work on the VW Bus outside.

I also think climate control and a good ventilation system are good to have. If I were building one I would also put in a mounted air system with a separate, sound insulated room for a big-ass compressor. A good sound system and TV/internet.

[stugray]

You didnt say how much space you have, so here's the dream shop:

three"cars" length for ~45 feet Total inside dimension
so a Box 45'X45'X2 Stories

Side one is divided into an upper 2 room office space with full bathroom and a lower open shop space with built in kitchen and another full bath
2nd half is full height with roll up doors on both ends and an overhead bridge hoist.

So you have a regular size ~20 X 45 (900 sq feet) shop with built in kitchen cabinets etc but also another 900 sq feet of "high bay" just big enough to pull in a 45' RV into or move three 914 carcasses around without impinging on the lower shop space

But you also have the upstairs which can be office, bedroom, or even small shop space.
You could even wall off the lower shop from the hibay shop and make half the shop a 1800 sq ft apartment.

3-phase power would be nice

[Tom_T]

In MN - go with fully insulated + vapor barriers @ all walls & roof/ceiling, & full HVAC so you can work in the all 4 seasons. You'll want natural gas on the heat side (unless you go with a heat pump), so also have an NG outlet or two in the shop area too.

You'll want 12'-14' clear ceiling height for a lift with a car top & under - I like 4 post, but others prefer 2.

Get a good vapor barrier under the slap & seal the top with a good epoxy so you won't have moisture issues.

If you can get the height in your neighborhood & city, then try to work in a full attic with the floor rated for 100-200# psf (rather than just ceiling joists) for parts & supplies storage (hopefully stand-up or semi-stand-up ht. under the peak & 4-5' to each side if possible, so you don't have to crawl around. You should also get your air handling HVAC & even the air compressor up there, to save more usable floor space.

In addition to the typical 110/115/120/125 V 3-prong outlets, you'll also want at least 2 or more 220/230/240 V 30-50A outlets for a welder, air compressor, etc. which take a heavier draw, & you'll want some upstairs in the attic too for whatever goes up there.

If you can work it into your budget, a residential level automatic fire sprinkler system for both levels would be a good idea, since you'll have a lot of flammables & valuable parts & tools in there. The high end would be a new halon type system (I'm blanking on the newer human friendly version's name) to avoid the water damage, but they're pricey.

Also make sure that they do a thick enough & properly reinforced slab, with a good soil prep under it, so that it will support the extra loads of the cars on lifts, etc., as well as at the outside driveway & apron out front. Depending upon your site, you may even be able to work in a drive thru situation with front & rear doors.

Check on the Motorsports Classics & Classic Motorsports sister magazines' websites for their recent dream garage articles, which will have a lot of good ideas.

Good Luck! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
Tom
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[Jon H.]

My shop is 33'x40' with 14' ceilings. Like my shop, i recommend putting the windows in at 8'ft from the floor this way you will have plenty of wall space. The windows are big and are for letting in light, not looking out of.

I also have three 8' double fluorescent lights on the side walls below the windows and the same in the centre of the shop. The lights along the wall are great for when your under the car or doing body work.

GLWB

Jon h.

[mepstein]

4 post lifts are for storage. 2 posts are for working on cars.

[billh1963]

4 post lifts are for storage. 2 posts are for working on cars.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

[billh1963]

If you have the acreage you should build bigger. 1,000 sq. ft. garages seem small to me.

If things go as planned I'll be building a shop next spring. I'm looking at building one at least 3000 sq. ft.

No matter what size you build you will probably fill it up.

[JOEPROPER]

I agree with a lot of the responses. I think a climate controlled building with a very efficient heating and air condition system would be at the top of the list. Make sure you give yourself plenty of room between lifts. Air hose connections and outlets everywhere and an isolated area for clean and/or precision work. Also don't overlook the outside, cameras and plenty light and parking along with ease of moving cars into the shop that are disabled. Good luck. I'd love to see the end result.

[flyer86d]

The garage that was the business that I sold this past December was 65ft by 70ft of clear floor space and a 14ft ceiling. It was originally built as a potato storage barn with 1ft thick framed, insulated walls and 16 inches of insulation in the ceiling. The concrete floor was 1ft thick which was a great flywheel for heating and cooling. Air conditioning was not an issue here in Vermont but heating sure is. I agree with plenty of electrical outlets. You will need 220 V for the compressor and welding machine. Get a two stage compressor. I had a two post lift which was great and a snap on scissors lift. Make sure that you do not have any floor drains. If you have a spill on the floor, you can clean it up. If it goes down the drain, you have an environmental disaster.

Charlie

[mbseto]

[mlindner]

Heat and A/C, yes sink, stainless steel work service, 110 and 220 outlets and I have a scissors lift in the floor works great and does not get in the way. Best, Mark

[rhodyguy]

Kraft faced insulation is last century. Look at a product named Roxul. Easy to work with and no loose fibers that get everywhere. No staples, Pressure fit, no sag, no air leakage, does not promote mold growth or attract pests and you can cut it with a bread knife from the dollar store. I bit of a premium at the checkout counter but well worth it.