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> What the heck is this for?, Need a wiring map !
cashiersjm
post Apr 21 2019, 09:11 AM
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Pulled the seats to work on the windshield & found this under the passenger seat.
I have carbs, no FI.
Don't have a center console.
Some wires so corroded they broke off. Others not connected, Some cut.
Any direction to a schematic showing what all these are for would be greatly appreciated.

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76-914
post Apr 21 2019, 09:27 AM
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It's already been jumped. Nothing to do. The old seatbelt interlock system.
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Valy
post Apr 21 2019, 09:37 AM
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At this stage you only care about the big yellow wires that are connected together. That bypasses the seatbelt interlock system.
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ClayPerrine
post Apr 21 2019, 08:50 PM
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QUOTE(Valy @ Apr 21 2019, 10:37 AM) *

At this stage you only care about the big yellow wires that are connected together. That bypasses the seatbelt interlock system.



There is one more wire in there that you care about. It is power from the same circuit that runs the ignition. If it grounds, the car dies. I prefer to disconnect (cut) it at the fuse box.

You also need to do some work on that if you want your interior light to work correctly.

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iankarr
post Apr 21 2019, 09:16 PM
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....And I believe the oil pressure sender wire connects at that block to the wire that goes to the gauge.
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Jonathan Livesay
post Apr 21 2019, 10:18 PM
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QUOTE(cuddy_k @ Apr 21 2019, 08:16 PM) *

....And I believe the oil pressure sender wire connects at that block to the wire that goes to the gauge.

I'm pretty sure that wire comes through the firewall with everything else and just runs straight up the tunnel, along with the alternator warning light wire and the oil temp wire which ends at the plug just behind the shift lever if you don't have a temp gauge.
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cashiersjm
post Apr 22 2019, 04:51 AM
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QUOTE(ClayPerrine @ Apr 21 2019, 10:50 PM) *

QUOTE(Valy @ Apr 21 2019, 10:37 AM) *

At this stage you only care about the big yellow wires that are connected together. That bypasses the seatbelt interlock system.



There is one more wire in there that you care about. It is power from the same circuit that runs the ignition. If it grounds, the car dies. I prefer to disconnect (cut) it at the fuse box.

You also need to do some work on that if you want your interior light to work correctly.


My interior light has never worked. I pulled the back pad & those wires (brown) run down the firewall into the tunnel. Looking at that electrical block, does it require any relay module to be plugged in to engage other functions? My car is a '74, would the wiring connections be the same on a '75? I have a '75 I can pull the seat to compare.
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cashiersjm
post Apr 22 2019, 04:53 AM
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QUOTE(Jonathan Livesay @ Apr 22 2019, 12:18 AM) *

QUOTE(cuddy_k @ Apr 21 2019, 08:16 PM) *

....And I believe the oil pressure sender wire connects at that block to the wire that goes to the gauge.

I'm pretty sure that wire comes through the firewall with everything else and just runs straight up the tunnel, along with the alternator warning light wire and the oil temp wire which ends at the plug just behind the shift lever if you don't have a temp gauge.


My oil pressure light works, on the gauge in the dash. I don't have a temp gauge.
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Chi-town
post Apr 22 2019, 09:16 AM
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That contains the seat belt logic starter cut relay (missing and bypassed in your pic), the warning buzzer, and rear defroster relay (if equipped).

The brown wires that run from that harness are the back pad light (should be 3-4 wires to two connectors on one side and a single brown wire on the other), the parking brake switch, and the ground for the rear defroster. The power for the rear defroster is the big green wire behind the back pad.
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Dave_Darling
post Apr 22 2019, 11:10 AM
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There is no effect to unplugging that relay if the two fat yellow/yellow-red wires have been spliced together.

What everyone else is primarily talking about is things that could go wrong if you cut the rest of the wires going to the socket. Either that, or if something damages a wire and shorts it to ground.

(Ironic that Clay is the one warning of "shorts". (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif) )

--DD
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SirAndy
post Apr 22 2019, 11:40 AM
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Whatever you do, please don't cut any more wires.

Tape up anything that looks like it may be able to short out, there's no need to cut anything.
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif)
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JeffBowlsby
post Apr 22 2019, 12:08 PM
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There is no rear defroster relay at this location, that is on the relay board with the voltage regulator for every model year 914.
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cashiersjm
post Apr 22 2019, 05:03 PM
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I didn't cut any wires, just removed the seat and found this mess and thought they must go to something; obviously not. I'll insulate the ends of all the bare ones, tuck them back in and move on to the next chore. Thanks for all the info.

Jim
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