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> Plan of Action?, Bondo Floor?
stoneman30hotmail
post Sep 10 2022, 05:07 PM
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Hello all, I'm a bit new to this. I had one of these in my 20's and and did a little stick welding fixing the hell hole.
I'm not sure how to approach this. Do I need to strip all this and go on rotisserie? Or is it feasible to cut and patch this from the top

The driver side floor is bondo (or something). I'm not sure what is holding the seat mounts. The passenger side seat mount right is about broken loose. There's also holes past the transverse strut into the battery area.

The longs seem ok from what I can see. Can I get the sill covers off without taking the fenders off? I was worried I drill out all the rivets to figure one hidden under the fender.

Any good tool recommendations for rust removal?

I was thinking maybe I can get away with with https://www.restoration-design.com/store/product/PP345BR and a https://www.restoration-design.com/store/PR...duct_Code=PP325 and the seat brakets and patch the holes.


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Superhawk996
post Sep 10 2022, 05:21 PM
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Read these before you do anything. You have more project on your hands than you think.

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=76791

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=307290

I say this with some authority since I started with a situation like yours.
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SirAndy
post Sep 10 2022, 05:57 PM
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QUOTE(Superhawk996 @ Sep 10 2022, 04:21 PM) *
You have more project on your hands than you think.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

The passenger side long is gone. Remove the rocker covers and start poking.
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/icon8.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sawzall-smiley.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif)


PS: Another good thread to read:
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=16748

PPS:
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/welcome.png)
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Mikey914
post Sep 10 2022, 06:10 PM
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If you choose to do this sure you have a brace in the door area, and your opening are equal. You are looking at a significant project. Not unsurmaountable, but the links provided will help you understand what you are looking at.
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930cabman
post Sep 10 2022, 06:32 PM
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Welcome aboard and it looks as though you are jumping all in. I have heard our 914's were outfitted with rust from the factory. What are your plans for this new ride? street or track, either way it appears you may have some structural issues to tend to
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mepstein
post Sep 10 2022, 07:53 PM
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(IMG:style_emoticons/default/welcome.png)
The rust you see is always the tip of the iceberg. Good luck.
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bkrantz
post Sep 10 2022, 08:28 PM
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Jump (gently) up and down on the right side and watch the door gap (with the roof off).
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rjames
post Sep 10 2022, 10:29 PM
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QUOTE
Any good tool recommendations for rust removal?


Sawzall, dremel, plasma cutter...

sorry, being cheeky, but post more pics of the car. Like the others that posted before me, from the pics I'm betting there's a lot more rust that will also need attention. May or may not be worth doing depending on your budget / goal.
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bbrock
post Sep 10 2022, 10:30 PM
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QUOTE(SirAndy @ Sep 10 2022, 05:57 PM) *

QUOTE(Superhawk996 @ Sep 10 2022, 04:21 PM) *
You have more project on your hands than you think.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

The passenger side long is gone. Remove the rocker covers and start poking.
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/icon8.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sawzall-smiley.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif)


PS: Another good thread to read:
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=16748

PPS:
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/welcome.png)

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) Strip everything down so you have a good idea how much metal needs to be replaced. Take care of long repairs with the car supported straight and level and door openings braced. Once you have the longs sound, you can decide how to attack the floor and firewall. People have replaced full floors without a rotisserie but it sure makes the job easier. If you do wind up only needing that rear quarter floor, it probably makes more sense to replace from above and below rather than a rotisserie, but as has been said, there is more rust than you can see at this point.
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emerygt350
post Sep 11 2022, 04:37 AM
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Just sayin guys, that barn find I took pictures of last week would be far less work...
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Cairo94507
post Sep 11 2022, 06:42 AM
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(IMG:style_emoticons/default/welcome.png) Don't rush. Take the time to read a lot of the full build threads on our site and come up with a plan. By tackling the structure/rust first you are already doing the right thing. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
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brant
post Sep 11 2022, 06:59 AM
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10 years ago that was a parts car
Nothing a few thousand hours and many thousands of dollars can’t fix

As I say
Never buy a 914 without pulling the rockers
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930cabman
post Sep 11 2022, 08:03 AM
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QUOTE(brant @ Sep 11 2022, 06:59 AM) *

10 years ago that was a parts car
Nothing a few thousand hours and many thousands of dollars can’t fix

As I say
Never buy a 914 without pulling the rockers


(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) the most recent 914 purchase several hundred miles away (#4). When I was able to unscrew the rocker slotted screws from the underside, I knew this might be a good one. She needs a floor, but the longs and most other areas look decent. When they get ugly the rocker covers hide much nastyness
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stoneman30hotmail
post Sep 11 2022, 08:24 AM
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QUOTE(emerygt350 @ Sep 11 2022, 06:37 AM) *

Just sayin guys, that barn find I took pictures of last week would be far less work...


I don't think so. Check this out. https://www.tiktok.com/t/ZTR5PpCQW/

Less than 1/8" flex at top of window when I jump on it. Though I'm only 155 lbs.
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mepstein
post Sep 11 2022, 09:47 AM
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Both cars need a lot of work. A lot of the Porsche chassis rust from the inside out so when you see “surface rust”, it’s just a sign that there’s much more inside the panel. You would be surprised how often a 1/4” bubble in the paint is a 6” rusty area in the metal. Much of the longs and rear suspension areas have 2-4 layers of metal so often you will need to peal of layers to get to the heart of the problem. Until it’s stripped down, it’s impossible to know what you have.
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Superhawk996
post Sep 11 2022, 10:08 AM
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QUOTE(mepstein @ Sep 11 2022, 11:47 AM) *

Both cars need a lot of work. A lot of the Porsche chassis rust from the inside out so when you see “surface rust”, it’s just a sign that there’s much more inside the panel. You would be surprised how often a 1/4” bubble in the paint is a 6” rusty area in the metal. Much of the longs and rear suspension areas have 2-4 layers of metal so often you will need to peal of layers to get to the heart of the problem. Until it’s stripped down, it’s impossible to know what you have.


(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

There’s just something to be said for the eternal optimism of east coast rust deniers (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
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mepstein
post Sep 11 2022, 10:21 AM
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QUOTE(Superhawk996 @ Sep 11 2022, 12:08 PM) *

QUOTE(mepstein @ Sep 11 2022, 11:47 AM) *

Both cars need a lot of work. A lot of the Porsche chassis rust from the inside out so when you see “surface rust”, it’s just a sign that there’s much more inside the panel. You would be surprised how often a 1/4” bubble in the paint is a 6” rusty area in the metal. Much of the longs and rear suspension areas have 2-4 layers of metal so often you will need to peal of layers to get to the heart of the problem. Until it’s stripped down, it’s impossible to know what you have.


(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

There’s just something to be said for the eternal optimism of east coast rust deniers (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

You really learn how bad it can be when you cut up a car. Blasting reveals a lot but until you cut open all the enclosed metal pockets in the chassis, it’s hard to appreciate how far the corrosion extends. One good example that many restorers do see is removing the engine bar mounts. Oftentimes there is a big hole behind the mount that is invisible until the mount is removed. The other concern of mine is always the right rear suspension consoles. Rain water mixes with battery acid to accelerate the corrosion to this area. The bare or primer treated inner metal is no match for the acid mixture. Needs alignment is just a code word for a failing console. My first 914 that I purchased in the early 80’s had a failing console. 40 years more hasn’t made the problem any better.
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Wadesbrain
post Sep 11 2022, 05:17 PM
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Ok so I think this sounds basic but it needs to be asked since a whole restoration/build is based on it. Where do I need to measure to get the car level? Is it the door sills? Suspension points? Or some other 0 point? If im going to build a jig/rotisserie etc i would like to know what my goal is for keeping it straight and square. I am aware of the pages with the measurement points but I haven't seen what my zero plane should be. Any help?

Wade
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930cabman
post Sep 11 2022, 05:30 PM
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QUOTE(Wadesbrain @ Sep 11 2022, 05:17 PM) *

Ok so I think this sounds basic but it needs to be asked since a whole restoration/build is based on it. Where do I need to measure to get the car level? Is it the door sills? Suspension points? Or some other 0 point? If im going to build a jig/rotisserie etc i would like to know what my goal is for keeping it straight and square. I am aware of the pages with the measurement points but I haven't seen what my zero plane should be. Any help?

Wade


Might want to contact: http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=361512

It looks very tempting to me, but have at it. Also check the "914 Info" at the top of the page for chassis dimensions
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SirAndy
post Sep 11 2022, 06:00 PM
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QUOTE(930cabman @ Sep 11 2022, 04:30 PM) *

Also check the "914 Info" at the top of the page for chassis dimensions

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

http://www.914world.com/specs/bodydims.php

http://www.914world.com/specs/underdims.php

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