How to properly wet sand clearcoat? Options

[Steve Thacker]

Does anyone know of a link and or could explain how to "properly" wet sand clearcoat? I'm wanting to do my own, to save some cash.

Thanks!

[vortrex]

go to the forum at www.autobodystore.com and ask or search, awesome forum there.

[Chris H.]

autopia.com is good too.

[Steve Thacker]

Thanks! I tried the autopia.com, but it points to some sort of dental software site? I always thought doing autobody and paint was like pulling teeth LOL. I just didn't know to what extent it was LOL

I'll try the autobody store and see what pans out. This can't be that difficult of a task, just having the correct supplies and technique. I'm sure someone has a how to wet sand clearcoat for dummys somewhere.

[tdgray]

Steve,

I might be able to help if you tell me what your trying to accomplish (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)

Is it faded? or chipped or what.

Will try to point you in the right direction.

Todd

[Steve Thacker]

Found a awesome site!
http://www.repairnation.com/paint_n_bodywo...nd&buffing2.htm

looks pretty easy......"Real famous last words of Custer"

[Steve Thacker]

Todd,
I just had my car freshly painted last month. After seeing what some of the places charge for cutting and buffing out a clearcoat, I said screw that I can do that. So I'm on a quest to get maybe a "kit" less buffer, to do it myself. How darn hard could it be? The site I posted above has all the details, i.e how to hold the buffer, edge line buffing DO's and DONT's, items needed etc. I just figured I'm not going to pay 200-400 clams to do this, plus I want to learn something new. Plus I need the extra cash to buy things from the guys on here LOL

[TheCabinetmaker]

Steve, The learning process of color sanding and buffing can be painful and expensive. $400.00 for a professional cut and polish is not unreasonable. It's labor intensive and takes a certain amont of skill.
"how hard can it be"? very hard! It's a skill mastered by few.

Have another peice of metal painted and try it before you f*^K up your brand new paint job. Having it repainted will cost a lot more than the $400.00. Go grab a faded hood from a junk yard and try to "bring it back to life" before you attempt your own new paint job.

[p914]

Here's another link from a DIYer
http://www.audiworld.com/tech/ext45.shtml
I'll see if I can find others.

[p914]

Check out a votech school that does bodywork to get some advice also. Talk to the instructor. Also check out a good classic car body specialist that does hot rods and collectibles.

[Steve Thacker]

Thanks for the wake-up call VSG. I'll get a old hood I have a around and throw some paint and clear coat on it and do a test run. I have to agree a little practice is in order. I know 400.00 is a reasonable cost, but I'm really tired of throwing money at this car. I have done everything else, I figured that I could do this task as well. I will do some practicing first rest assured. Thanks all for the links,..they are very insightful! Maybe I can get someone in town to show me how they do it?

[tracks914]

Steve,

I might be able to help if you tell me what your trying to accomplish (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)

Is it faded? or chipped or what.

Will try to point you in the right direction.

Todd

What is it you are trying to do?
Polish a good paint job?
Sand out runs on a bad paint job?
Smooth out dips and holes in a bad body job?
Every one of these requires a different technique to do it right. The wrong one will ruin your current paint.
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)
Doug

[TheCabinetmaker]

Check out a votech school that does bodywork to get some advice also. Talk to the instructor. Also check out a good classic car body specialist that does hot rods and collectibles.

P914, Excellent advice.

I am on the advisory commitee for the advanced adult cabinetmaking class for the Tulsa Technology Center(Vo-Tech). The instructors love their jobs, and love talking about what they know how to do.

[RD Evans]

Take a look at Autobody Store. Very active BBS with excellent technical info.

[Slowpoke]

I read the link at repair nation. That was all good info. But, a couple of things I do. Get a spray bottle and spray water on the car with it as you sand. Less wringing our of sponges and it still flushes away the clear that is sanded loose, and I don't get as wet as when I use a hose.

I find it easier to control the sand paper at an edge than a 8 inch buffer, so I sand near an edge carefully with only 2000grit. Then I use a 4 inch buffing pad on a die grinder on low pressure. It removes less material and if you press too hard it just stops. So I don't burn the paint. Heat is what buffs the car, and it will also burn the paint so I check the tempt of the panel with my hand as I buff, it slows me down and takes more time but, I never burn through yet. I also use the spray bottle again to cool it down or wet the compound.
Buy a good buffer. The more you sand with 2000 grit the less wool buffing you have to do. Get at least 4 of foam pads for the finish. Everyone buffs a little different and I surely don't think mine is the best, but it works for me.

[Chris H.]

Thanks! I tried the autopia.com, but it points to some sort of dental software site? I always thought doing autobody and paint was like pulling teeth LOL. I just didn't know to what extent it was LOL

Oops sorry Steve! autopia.org

Big difference.

[tdgray]

Steve,

Sorry I did not follow this post yesterday, yes I actually have a job and I had to do it yesterday instead of reading the BBS all day (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif) , but here is my advise.

If you really want to learn this yourself take a class at a vocational school or if you know a body shop or guys that work in a body shop have one of them teach you. This is an art. You must know exactly how to do it or you just scrapped your paint job. Also you have to have the right tools and materials. A good Makita buffer, variable speed, will set you back at least $250.00. Sand paper, sanding block and all will run you around $25.00 to $50.00.

This technique of wet sanding is useful to take out scratches and renew the clearcoat but is most often used to clear up imperfections in the paint such as orange peel and fisheyes( to a small extent).

Basically the run down on the procedure is this. You wet sand the clear coat depending on the condition of the clearcoat you may start with 2000 unigrit sandpaper or you may start as high as 4000. You must have a micron graded quality sandpaper, purchase this from your local PBE supplier. Then you sucessively work your way to higher grits. Basically just looking to smooth the surface NOT remove and material. You use a soft foam sanding block and change your water regularly. Then you start buffing with a polishing compound, depending on how well you did on your sanding ( how smooth you got the finish) you may need to move through two different grades of polishing compounds. After several passes you should have a good finish. Then apply wax to protect.

I really cannot stress enough to have someone teach this to you or at least have them on hand to guide you along the first time. I have only done it a few times and I get very nervous every time I think about doing it.

Good Luck,

Todd

[redshift]

If a pro paints it, you practice on a hood you painted, and then you start sanding out your car, you are going to find out something quick..

Pros shoot thin even coats.

Don't burn a hole.


M

[Steve Thacker]

Thanks guys for all the fantastic pointers. I'm now sweating bullets about doing this myself. I just don't have the time to go somewhere and learn this right now and that is a bummer on its own. Damn I hate turning loose anymore cash "unless for pieces parts". I guess I'll have to swallow hard and cough up the money for a pro to do it. If I could do it all by hand and not use a buffer "this is the spooky part", then I would attempt it. This really sux LOL.........

[mharrison]

My first experience with a buffer involved a fading paint job. It looked bad when I started and worse when I finished. I had light and dark spots, lines, swirls, and everything else you can imagine. It was ALOT harder than I thought it would be. I've painted cars, rebuilt engines, done body work, and lot's of other stuff. Buffing is an art that you have to learn the feel of it is much harder than doing body work with filler which is something else you have to get the feel of. Body work by a novice is better than a buff job by a novice in my opinion.
I'd spend the $400 dollars. If you do want to get into buffing. Practice on something else....alot.

I'm a much better buffer today than I was then and the only paint job I would buff is one that is almost shot anyway.

Now, that said, everybody who buff's professionally learned how to do it sometime. And there is only one way to learn how to do it.

Weigh the options and make your decision from that.