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> She ran! and a gasket question
Hammy
post May 17 2006, 11:04 PM
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mr. Wonderful
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I'm thrilled.
Started it up for the first time tonight, and I put it in and hooked it all up myself.
Finally gave up with my solenoid trouble and went out and bought a new starter yesterday. (60 bucks with lifetime warranty) Now she turns right over
Hooked up the carbs and linkage and at first couldn't get it to fire and that was a downer. After some looking around found out I had the fuel pump wired backwards (IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/slap.gif)
Turn the key.. heard it fire a couple of times and then she comes to life... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) Freakin' loud without the muffler on (IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif)

Anyways, I need to get some new gaskets for inbetween the heads and the carb manifolds. Is there anything specific I need to buy (size) ??
TIA.
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bd1308
post May 17 2006, 11:07 PM
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Sir Post-a-lot
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contgrats!! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/clap56.gif)

nope..Look for intake gaskets. Get the fiber ones not the dumb metal ones.

1.7 is four bolt so you'll obviously need the 1.7/1.8 type gasket. Thats about it.

b
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rhodyguy
post May 17 2006, 11:12 PM
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Chimp Sanctuary NW. Check it out.
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i think mentioned that during the rambling discussions. i was positive when i heard gurgling at the gas tank when the key was turned on. i used the stock phelonic f.i. blocks under the intakes, hoping to prevent some of the heat soak.

k
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bondo
post May 17 2006, 11:42 PM
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Practicing my perpendicular parking
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Those gaskets are near new, and the phenolic part of them is still good. I say just clean off the paper gasket material, smear some RTV on them, and install them. You could go to the trouble of cutting new paper gaskets, but I don't think it's necessary. I'm pretty sure the paper gaskets are not available separately, and the assemblies are kinda pricey, for gaskets.
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Hammy
post May 17 2006, 11:49 PM
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QUOTE(bondo @ May 17 2006, 10:42 PM) *

Those gaskets are near new, and the phenolic part of them is still good. I say just clean off the paper gasket material, smear some RTV on them, and install them. You could go to the trouble of cutting new paper gaskets, but I don't think it's necessary. I'm pretty sure the paper gaskets are not available separately, and the assemblies are kinda pricey, for gaskets.

Alright, thats what I did, just took off the paper part.
What is RTV?
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bondo
post May 18 2006, 12:38 AM
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QUOTE(Hammy @ May 17 2006, 10:49 PM) *

QUOTE(bondo @ May 17 2006, 10:42 PM) *

Those gaskets are near new, and the phenolic part of them is still good. I say just clean off the paper gasket material, smear some RTV on them, and install them. You could go to the trouble of cutting new paper gaskets, but I don't think it's necessary. I'm pretty sure the paper gaskets are not available separately, and the assemblies are kinda pricey, for gaskets.

Alright, thats what I did, just took off the paper part.
What is RTV?


Room temperature vulcanizing sealant.. Fancy name for silicone. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
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rhodyguy
post May 18 2006, 07:45 AM
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Chimp Sanctuary NW. Check it out.
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(IMG:style_emoticons/default/rolleyes.gif) the blocks are only $8.75 for the 1.7/1.8 and $12.75 for the 2.0 (from the bird). using rtv is a poor product application imho. if you should EVER have to pull the intakes, it's going to be a pita cleaning everything up just to reseal with the goop, and if for some chance they don't seal completely, repeat, repeat....using the blocks will push the intakes out/sideways a bit, but you can make up for this with a simple linkage adjustment. you don't need no stinkin rtv.

k
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Cap'n Krusty
post May 18 2006, 07:58 AM
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At 60 bucks for a "rebuilt" starter, you're gonna need that "lifetime" warranty. Good part about it is you'll become really good at starter R&R! The Cap'n
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bondo
post May 18 2006, 09:54 AM
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QUOTE(rhodyguy @ May 18 2006, 06:45 AM) *

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/rolleyes.gif) the blocks are only $8.75 for the 1.7/1.8 and $12.75 for the 2.0 (from the bird). using rtv is a poor product application imho. if you should EVER have to pull the intakes, it's going to be a pita cleaning everything up just to reseal with the goop, and if for some chance they don't seal completely, repeat, repeat....using the blocks will push the intakes out/sideways a bit, but you can make up for this with a simple linkage adjustment. you don't need no stinkin rtv.

k


I disagree.. The old ones had no RTV. The paper gasket part had been sucked into the intake in several places, and left nice gaps which I could see the backfires (caused by the massive vacuum leaks) through. With paper gaskets or not, I use RTV now. Each side has 4 places for possible leaks, and that's too many to rely on the clamping pressure of 4 bolts.
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