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> And today with the /6, Working towards the dumb-ass award
Dr Evil
post Jun 2 2006, 12:59 PM
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So I draind a bit of oil out of the engine so I could run my engine with out it being an oil cannon. I get it started, get it to idle, goof wiht the dizzy and put it where it sounds best for now, and start revving it.................just about the time my fan sucks in and shreds one of my blue paper shop towels (IMG:style_emoticons/default/mad.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) I am really starting to think that I should have stayed /4.

So I recover the majority of it from infont of the fan, but there is the concern of any pieces that I missed.

Should I take the fan out, CIS off, and the cooling shroud off to look for it or should I just burn it off? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)


Also, it appears that the rear of the drivers lower valve cover is leaking still, and oil misteriously is ending up on the top of the engine on the drivers side even thought the vent tube is no longer puking. Getting close to fed up.
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Aaron Cox
post Jun 2 2006, 01:03 PM
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you must outsmart the six (IMG:style_emoticons/default/tongue.gif)


the fans do infact suck a lot...


as much as it sucks... you prolly need to go retrieve the pieces, as they will block cooling to heads/cylinder fins/ and worse case oil cooler!!

can you stick a shopvac extension between the fan blades???? etc.....
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lapuwali
post Jun 2 2006, 01:05 PM
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Pulling the CIS and the shroud should be enough. No need to pull the fan off, too. Removing the CIS is pretty quick. Removing the shroud actually takes longer. You could also try just pulling one of the panels on the front, next to the fan (the heater blower and/or block off plates, depending on what you're running), and you might be able to see enough of it in there to fish it all out.
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Dr Evil
post Jun 2 2006, 01:09 PM
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Thanks for the encouragement, James. I can laugh about it now...its been 30 min. True, that those items are not as hard to remove.


I just wish the damn valve cover would stop leaking! I am letting it and me cool for now so I can work on it with out burning my self.

Here is another funny one for you: I hooked the ground for my tach to my turn signal ground. I found this out by using my turn signals and watching my tach pulse with them.....at least I am not board (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
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fitsbain
post Jun 2 2006, 01:14 PM
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Keep at it man!!

Hopefully you will be done by the ened of the month.

I know you want to drive it.
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Dr Evil
post Jun 2 2006, 01:24 PM
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Thanks, dudes. I really needed some cheerleading.
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Aaron Cox
post Jun 2 2006, 01:27 PM
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you and skline are competing for longest non driving car build LOL
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zymurgist
post Jun 2 2006, 01:36 PM
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What kind of valve covers do you have? I have read that the Turbo type valve covers are the best factory type... I also read that if you sand the sealing surface surface on a flat surface (a thick piece of glass works best) so the sealing surface is as flat as you can make it, that helps to stop leaks. I think there are silicone gaskets that seal pretty well, too.
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Aaron Cox
post Jun 2 2006, 01:36 PM
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turbo lower valve covers interfere with the suspension ear....

so you have to grind off some webbing///
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balljoint
post Jun 2 2006, 02:02 PM
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You need a nurse to count the sponges before you suture Doc. Are you sure there are pieces in there? Do a little jigsaw puzzle work with what you recovered and see how much might be in there. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/stan.gif)
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Mark Henry
post Jun 2 2006, 02:07 PM
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QUOTE(Aaron Cox @ Jun 2 2006, 03:36 PM) *

turbo lower valve covers interfere with the suspension ear....

so you have to grind off some webbing///


Maybe you need to install them up-side down. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

Dumb ass meet smart ass
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GeorgeRud
post Jun 2 2006, 02:12 PM
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Pull the CIS and fiberglass shroud and clean it out properly, you will rest much easier knowing its not blocking cooling passages.

The Oil thermostat and sender on top of the engine driver's side are known to leak easily, check them while the cooling cover is off - a new O ring is cheap!

Just my $0.02 from personal experience. I bought a used engine once and found mouse nests on top of cooling fins under the fiberglass shroud!
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BK911
post Jun 2 2006, 02:24 PM
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Can you vacuum from the top and blow compressed air from the bottom? May only have to remove the alt/fan.
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Dr Evil
post Jun 2 2006, 02:36 PM
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Na, it will be easier and more of a piece of mind if I just pull the CIS and shroud. I just rebuilt this damn engine last year (have been too busy with school to get it started) so I hope there is no leaking O-rings. All seals are new.

I just installed the silicon green valve cover gasket on the lower leaky one. I am not 100% that is is not just some residual oiol from when I over filled the tank and it puked it up, but it seems above the area of the puking as the car is on jacks.

To get my mind of of it I tried to program my MJLJ......now I am frustrated at something else (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
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lapuwali
post Jun 2 2006, 03:14 PM
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A bit of a hijack, but you brought it up...

Where/how did you buy/make the EDIS trigger wheel on the crank? I'm very strongly leaning in the same direction, and I hear there are places that just make replacement pulleys with the EDIS wheel there, and sensor mounts. Did you make yours or buy it? Pics?

It's not so much that I hate distributors, but I hate the fact that you can't even see the distributor on a 914/6 with the engine in the car.
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Aaron Cox
post Jun 2 2006, 03:23 PM
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how does clewitt mount their trigger wheel?
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lapuwali
post Jun 2 2006, 03:39 PM
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QUOTE(Aaron Cox @ Jun 2 2006, 02:23 PM) *

how does clewitt mount their trigger wheel?


I think they bolt it to the back of the pulley. Nice stuff, but Clewett only makes 60-2 wheels, and only seems interested in selling complete kits, not just the wheel and the sensor mount. Some people on the Bird board mentioned they found a vendor to sell pre-made EDIS wheel setups, but didn't say who that vendor was. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif) (years old posts, found by search)
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Dr Evil
post Jun 2 2006, 03:39 PM
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Thomas hooked me up with the mount and the moded wheel.


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Dr Evil
post Jun 2 2006, 03:40 PM
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Here is Clewett's awsome set up.


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lapuwali
post Jun 2 2006, 04:07 PM
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Did more digging and answered my own question. Found this place: EDIS wheel

They have a lightweight wheel (60-2 or 36-1 for Electromotive or EDIS), pulley, sensor mount, and distributor plug. $300 for a complete kit with sensor.
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