So I draind a bit of oil out of the engine so I could run my engine with out it being an oil cannon. I get it started, get it to idle, goof wiht the dizzy and put it where it sounds best for now, and start revving it.................just about the time my fan sucks in and shreds one of my blue paper shop towels I am really starting to think that I should have stayed /4.

So I recover the majority of it from infont of the fan, but there is the concern of any pieces that I missed.

Should I take the fan out, CIS off, and the cooling shroud off to look for it or should I just burn it off?


Also, it appears that the rear of the drivers lower valve cover is leaking still, and oil misteriously is ending up on the top of the engine on the drivers side even thought the vent tube is no longer puking. Getting close to fed up.

you must outsmart the six


the fans do infact suck a lot...


as much as it sucks... you prolly need to go retrieve the pieces, as they will block cooling to heads/cylinder fins/ and worse case oil cooler!!

can you stick a shopvac extension between the fan blades???? etc.....

Pulling the CIS and the shroud should be enough. No need to pull the fan off, too. Removing the CIS is pretty quick. Removing the shroud actually takes longer. You could also try just pulling one of the panels on the front, next to the fan (the heater blower and/or block off plates, depending on what you're running), and you might be able to see enough of it in there to fish it all out.

Thanks for the encouragement, James. I can laugh about it now...its been 30 min. True, that those items are not as hard to remove.


I just wish the damn valve cover would stop leaking! I am letting it and me cool for now so I can work on it with out burning my self.

Here is another funny one for you: I hooked the ground for my tach to my turn signal ground. I found this out by using my turn signals and watching my tach pulse with them.....at least I am not board

Keep at it man!!

Hopefully you will be done by the ened of the month.

I know you want to drive it.

Thanks, dudes. I really needed some cheerleading.

you and skline are competing for longest non driving car build LOL

What kind of valve covers do you have? I have read that the Turbo type valve covers are the best factory type... I also read that if you sand the sealing surface surface on a flat surface (a thick piece of glass works best) so the sealing surface is as flat as you can make it, that helps to stop leaks. I think there are silicone gaskets that seal pretty well, too.

turbo lower valve covers interfere with the suspension ear....

so you have to grind off some webbing///

You need a nurse to count the sponges before you suture Doc. Are you sure there are pieces in there? Do a little jigsaw puzzle work with what you recovered and see how much might be in there.

Maybe you need to install them up-side down.

Dumb ass meet smart ass

Pull the CIS and fiberglass shroud and clean it out properly, you will rest much easier knowing its not blocking cooling passages.

The Oil thermostat and sender on top of the engine driver's side are known to leak easily, check them while the cooling cover is off - a new O ring is cheap!

Just my $0.02 from personal experience. I bought a used engine once and found mouse nests on top of cooling fins under the fiberglass shroud!

Can you vacuum from the top and blow compressed air from the bottom? May only have to remove the alt/fan.

Na, it will be easier and more of a piece of mind if I just pull the CIS and shroud. I just rebuilt this damn engine last year (have been too busy with school to get it started) so I hope there is no leaking O-rings. All seals are new.

I just installed the silicon green valve cover gasket on the lower leaky one. I am not 100% that is is not just some residual oiol from when I over filled the tank and it puked it up, but it seems above the area of the puking as the car is on jacks.

To get my mind of of it I tried to program my MJLJ......now I am frustrated at something else

A bit of a hijack, but you brought it up...

Where/how did you buy/make the EDIS trigger wheel on the crank? I'm very strongly leaning in the same direction, and I hear there are places that just make replacement pulleys with the EDIS wheel there, and sensor mounts. Did you make yours or buy it? Pics?

It's not so much that I hate distributors, but I hate the fact that you can't even see the distributor on a 914/6 with the engine in the car.

how does clewitt mount their trigger wheel?

I think they bolt it to the back of the pulley. Nice stuff, but Clewett only makes 60-2 wheels, and only seems interested in selling complete kits, not just the wheel and the sensor mount. Some people on the Bird board mentioned they found a vendor to sell pre-made EDIS wheel setups, but didn't say who that vendor was. (years old posts, found by search)

Thomas hooked me up with the mount and the moded wheel.

Here is Clewett's awsome set up.

Did more digging and answered my own question. Found this place: EDIS wheel

They have a lightweight wheel (60-2 or 36-1 for Electromotive or EDIS), pulley, sensor mount, and distributor plug. $300 for a complete kit with sensor.

Kinda not correct. For the /6 the notch needs to be at 60 degrees IIRC, not TDC. Also, $40 for a plug seems retarded when you can get a radiator plug for less than $5 that fits perfect. You can also get the toothed ring for $10 from Napa or one of those places. Ask Mike Mueller as he gave me the on ehe bought. Sensors are free/cheap at the junk yard.

Actually, for a 6, the missing tooth should be 180 degrees away from the VR sensor, when the engine is at TDC/cylinder 1, and the VR sensor should be 60 degrees BTDC of TDC. If the sensor is moved, the missing tooth has to move with it. Their sensor mount looks to position the sensor pretty close to 60 degrees BTDC, but it's hard to tell where the missing tooth is on the EDIS wheel in relation to TDC. I think the comment on the site is just a typo.

There are a couple of people on the Bird board using these, so one presumes they actually work.

And you're officially cheaper even than I am.

True that. I am sure they work, I am just cheap

Dude! You can't win even one can ya?

Keep at it; you're almost htere!

if mike = doctor, and car = patient, i would be scared LOL

kidding. get on it mike and make it happen

stick one of those long ass fireplace matches down there and light it on fire

Hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm, na. Probably burn my garage down.

Well, back on topic. I never want to have to do this again! I was picking little blue fragments out of everywhere.

Now I will be waiting for parts again as the gaskets from the intakes to the heads all came apart....I am getting really sick of waiting for parts. I did consider using high temp gasket sealant on them, but I am pretty sure that is wrong.

soon, you will learn....

buy 2x the parts at once... so you have em on ahnd for when you ***k up

life is less stressful that way

Need more rags sent your way?

Hey Mike,

You know I am just south of you. If you want another set of hands, let me know and I will swing up after work one day (prolly get to the harrisburg area ~6 if I gym first, or 4:45 if I go striaght from the office.

You offered to come and help me, and AFAIC the offer goes both ways.

Also I have time off for my B-Day either the 9th or the 12th. If you are still having issues, let me know and I can come up early and make a day trip of it.

Zach

Mike My lower covers were very warped -i had them milled flat (haven't tried them yet but hopefully no leaks)

I just ordered 12 intake manifold gaskets (and I hope to never have to use the others)....and the wait continues.

Zach, you are welcome to come by, but there realy is not anything here for a second person to do. This is a one man torture machine. You could play audience to my colorful disertation of profanities when the next thing(s) happens. I should have my parts no later than Wed.....then I will be chasing the leaking cover.


For the cover, I am using the new silicon gaskets and may have kleft it a little looser than I shold have. I tightened the nuts a bit more and will see if it solves the problem. If not I will have to get cfreative as it is not the cover, but the mating surface of the cam housings that is dicked up a little. Maybe I can fill all of the nicks with some JB weld and sand smooth....oh the shade tree calleth.

Cool beans. Offer stands, if you want a spare set of hands, you have my digits, or at the very least my email (email is actually best...).

Good luck.
Zach

Using my crystal ball, I don't think the oil leak is from a valve cover.
I'm thinking a rocker arm, one of the usual culrpits on top of the engine, or maybe even from betweern the cam tower and head.
Hopefully my hunch is wrong.

Man, that would piss me off sooo much. I did everything on this engine except the top end as I had no more time left to learn how to do it right before the move. I may just check those things while I have the whoel CIS and shroud off.