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> New Rear Calipers and Mounts, Installed the Wilwoods
Matt Romanowski
post Jul 28 2006, 12:55 PM
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I put the Wilwoods on and ran them last weekend. Holy Cow! The car definatly stops now. I need to get used to modulating the brakes differently, but there was no indication of fade and good balance. I think the pictures explain things pretty well.....

The first is the caliper mount welded up. I am going to post this in the resources section. We can do any caliper offset for 3.5 bolt spaced calipers people want. Set up for solid or vented rotors.

Attached Image



This photo is everything mounted up

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This is a comparison of the new brake pad to the original rear caliper


Attached Image

Finally, a picture of the stock size front pads in comparison to the new pad size all the way around.

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And another photo of the fronts for good measure

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Evill Ed
post Jul 28 2006, 12:58 PM
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Looks good Matt, Nice work.

Ed
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Mike T
post Jul 28 2006, 01:08 PM
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QUOTE(Evill Ed @ Jul 28 2006, 10:58 AM) *

Looks good Matt, Nice work.

Ed



What is the weight difference old to new?

Mike T
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Brad Roberts
post Jul 28 2006, 01:11 PM
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Interesting

The Willwood Superlight II looks identical to a Bremtek caliper.


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lapuwali
post Jul 28 2006, 01:13 PM
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How much do the vented rotors weigh? How much do the calipers weigh?

I'm curious if the lighter calipers make up for the added weight of the rotors.
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Matt Romanowski
post Jul 28 2006, 01:16 PM
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I didn't weight the old calipers or the Wilwoods.

I just looked and Wilwood doesn't list the weight for these calipers, but it list similar ones at 3.2 pounds. The pads are probably .5-.75 pounds each. I can pads tonight if people are interested.

The calipers are pretty light for their size. They are forged billet aluminum.

Matt
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Matt Romanowski
post Jul 28 2006, 01:19 PM
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Hey Brad,

They seem to be the same as the old Superlite II calipers. As far as I know, Bremtek has been out of business for a while. I'm not even sure if you can get parts (seals and pistons) for Bremtek stuff anymore. I haven't taken one apart yet, but I would get the Wilwood parts are the same.

The calipers on the front are old Superlight II and the rears are brand new. You can tell they have been doing some analysis work....

Matt
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John
post Jul 28 2006, 02:12 PM
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Nice brakes. Looks like a track only car.

I think you need to get some heavier duty jackstands for that car.
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TimT
post Jul 28 2006, 02:21 PM
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(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads/post-1507-1154112662.jpg)

thats alot of overhang on the pads! is that caliper in the final position?
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Brad Roberts
post Jul 28 2006, 04:05 PM
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Matt,

you didnt put that nasty grimy control arm back on the car did you?

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/alfred.gif)

Pad overhang is a little much!


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Matt Romanowski
post Jul 28 2006, 05:33 PM
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I cleaned everything before final mounting. It's all clean and happy now.

The overhang looks worse in the photos than it really is. They are actually mounted exactly as the Wilwood drawings call for.

As for weights:

The stock non-vented rotor is 8.5 #s

A drilled vented rotor is 12.5 #s

The stock rear caliper is 7 #s

So, it is probably slightly heavier due to the heavier pads. It's more than made up for in increased braking ability.

Matt


QUOTE(Brad Roberts @ Jul 28 2006, 02:05 PM) *

Matt,

you didnt put that nasty grimy control arm back on the car did you?

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/alfred.gif)

Pad overhang is a little much!


B
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turboman808
post Jul 28 2006, 05:59 PM
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I was wondering if this was cheaper or better to do these over porsche brakes?
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Mueller
post Jul 28 2006, 07:28 PM
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QUOTE(turboman808 @ Jul 28 2006, 04:59 PM) *

I was wondering if this was cheaper or better to do these over porsche brakes?


considering that you can get these 4 piston calipers that start @ $140 (book price, you can find them cheaper on-line), I'd say the Wilwoods are cheaper....are the Porsche calipers better?? I doubt it, but some people have a "problem" with non-Porsche badged items on thier cars (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

Matt, looks good.......plasma cut brackets??
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Matt Romanowski
post Jul 30 2006, 08:55 AM
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I consider them to be as good. Pad area wise, they are a little bigger than a 930. It's certainly more than enough for 914 or a 911 for that matter. I think they are more heat resistant because of the piston design. You can get different pistons sizes to set proportioning correctly. They are race calipers, so they don't have dust seals, but you can rebuild them for something like $8.00.

Mike - They are actually flame cut. I know someone that can flame cut things good enought to do press fits with parts!!
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JPB
post Jul 30 2006, 11:53 AM
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Sorry for the questions but what about the master cylinder, how many millimeters and from what? Do you have a booster on it? How much for the whole convesion and where can we get all the parts for it? Proportioning valve; what make and #? Looks to good not to pry a little!!! I just converted to BMW 320 brakes and will probably vomit once you tell us all the details.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer.gif) With all that teasin, I needs some pleasin bru!
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Matt Romanowski
post Jul 30 2006, 08:22 PM
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The MC is the 23mm, no booster. I don't have a part number - I got it from Smart Racing and there is nothing on it. I would love the number or at least an application.......

It's a regular Wilwood valve. I used a metric fitting on one end of the line that goes to it and an inverted flare on the other. After the valve, I did inverted flare to save a couple of fittings. If you used a metric valve (at double the cost) you could run bubble flair everywhere.

Not sure on the total price, but it was probably around $600ish. I can add everything up if you want. I bought new lines and AN fitting for the new brakes and everything. It's definatly the way to go IMHO. The calipers, valve, adapters, and fittings are available at any circle track supplier (Summit, JEGS, Behrent's, etc.). I got nice coated lines from Autozone. We made up the brackets for the valve and caliper mouting.

Matt
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Joe Bob
post Jul 30 2006, 08:27 PM
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How do they mount? Standard 3.5 inch Porsche ear? Any machining or mods needed?

Direct bolt on to SC style front ends and calipers?
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Brett W
post Jul 31 2006, 04:57 AM
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I don't know about the sixes but the regular 914 is 3in bolt spacing.

How about a shot of the clearance between the caliper and outer edge of the rotor.

Watch EBAY and you can score the calipers cheaper. I picked up a set of Superlights for 100 or so and a set of ProLite 6Rs for 450. They are the ones pictured in my avatar. Pads are relatively cheap as well.
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Jeroen
post Jul 31 2006, 06:55 AM
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QUOTE
The MC is the 23mm, no booster. I don't have a part number - I got it from Smart Racing and there is nothing on it. I would love the number or at least an application.......

IIRC the 23mm mastercilinder is from a smal. Mercedes truck or van
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Matt Romanowski
post Jul 31 2006, 07:05 AM
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They are 3.5" spacing. On the front, you have to add a washer between the caliper and ear. On the back, we have to cut off the stock mount and weld on the new one.

I'll work on some photos of the edge of the rotor to caliper. Spacing is not a problem there.

Matt
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