Suddenly, no power at all, Ignition Switch Dead? |
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Suddenly, no power at all, Ignition Switch Dead? |
Brian Mifsud |
Sep 26 2006, 10:14 PM
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#1
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Mechanical Engineer Group: Members Posts: 981 Joined: 3-March 03 From: Penngrove, CA Member No.: 384 Region Association: None |
I had just switched off my previously perfectly starting engine to go get some wrenches to adjust fuel pressure regulator. A moment later, I turn the key and get absolutely NOTHING.. no idiot light, no starter, no fuel pump....
If there is a significant blockage to flow for the fuel pump, would that kill some "master" fuse so I have absolutely no power? Pump was only running literally for 10 seconds. The front end is on jack stands so car isn't level. I know somewhere is a switch that kills the fuel pump if you wreck.. is this a mercury bubble type? I've never had any problems with my ignition switch of any sort before. No puffs of smoke..nothing... |
SGB |
Sep 26 2006, 10:30 PM
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#2
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just visiting Group: Members Posts: 4,086 Joined: 8-March 03 From: Huntsville, AL Member No.: 404 Region Association: South East States |
i'll bet it is NOT related to your fuel pressure regulator or pumo. you've been swiching the car on and off messing withit? Is they trans ground good? Fuses?
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Brian Mifsud |
Sep 26 2006, 10:41 PM
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#3
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Mechanical Engineer Group: Members Posts: 981 Joined: 3-March 03 From: Penngrove, CA Member No.: 384 Region Association: None |
i'll bet it is NOT related to your fuel pressure regulator or pumo. you've been swiching the car on and off messing withit? Is they trans ground good? Fuses? I installed the engine about 10 months ago and at that time scuffed up the transmission ground really well on both body and transaxle. Has started reliably and strongly ever since (new battery at that time also). Tonight, the only things I did were: 1) reinstall head temp sensor (engine started fine after that) 2) reinstalled air distribution manifold for smog (in way of head temp access) 3) remount (was never disconnected) the MPS to body (in way of head temp access) 4) Open fuel pump door in front trunk to pull out fuel pump and hoses (in case of kinks)... made wiring connections tighter at spades and left it lying in trunk. engine successfully restarted after all these things I 'touched' tonight. Then killed ignition, when to get wrenches, and the "Dead" situation... |
TravisNeff |
Sep 26 2006, 11:03 PM
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#4
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914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 5,082 Joined: 20-March 03 From: Mesa, AZ Member No.: 447 Region Association: Southwest Region |
Make sure your coil terminals are not grounding out on the tin, that is an unfused link to the starter switch.
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So.Cal.914 |
Sep 27 2006, 12:06 AM
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#5
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"...And it has a front trunk too." Group: Members Posts: 6,588 Joined: 15-February 04 From: Low Desert, CA./ Hills of N.J. Member No.: 1,658 Region Association: None |
Something to check, if your battery cable clamps are loose or dirty a surge of
power can cause carbon & corrosion build up and all of the sudden... Nothing. After that I would check the other grounds. If that is not it next I would borrow someones battery, they can go all of the sudden under a load but in an hour show voltage but die again under a load. Oh and check your pos cable at the starter.(IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) |
McMark |
Sep 27 2006, 12:13 AM
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#6
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914 Freak! Group: Retired Admin Posts: 20,179 Joined: 13-March 03 From: Grand Rapids, MI Member No.: 419 Region Association: None |
Turn the key to start position and hold it there while 'jiggling' the key in all directions. This can sometimes make a bad ignition switch contact. It sounds like a key switch to me.
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Brian Mifsud |
Sep 27 2006, 08:05 AM
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#7
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Mechanical Engineer Group: Members Posts: 981 Joined: 3-March 03 From: Penngrove, CA Member No.: 384 Region Association: None |
Make sure your coil terminals are not grounding out on the tin, that is an unfused link to the starter switch. Oh Oh.... (now reading this the morning after at work). I had pushed the air cleaner "Lid" aside. That might be have provided an opportunity to accidentily touch the coil contacts to ground. If that was the case, my "new" battery has been "dead" now for 8 hours...... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/finger.gif) Damned you physics!!! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/chair.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) |
Brian Mifsud |
Sep 27 2006, 08:07 AM
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#8
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Mechanical Engineer Group: Members Posts: 981 Joined: 3-March 03 From: Penngrove, CA Member No.: 384 Region Association: None |
Turn the key to start position and hold it there while 'jiggling' the key in all directions. This can sometimes make a bad ignition switch contact. It sounds like a key switch to me. Hi Mark, I did quite a bit of jiggling (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) ... (and then I went over and started shaking and twisting the key in the ignition switch!) I was up too late last night so didn't go look at battery terminal voltage... if the battery is good, I'll start the power tracing.. |
cooltimes |
Sep 27 2006, 08:46 AM
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#9
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 2,508 Joined: 18-May 04 Member No.: 2,081 Region Association: None |
MScott gave me a good tip when I had a like problem. Try a shot of grease to the solenoid switch. Could be sticking before and now just plain stuck.
Doesn't cost anything to try and probably needs lube anyhow. MikeCool Turn the key to start position and hold it there while 'jiggling' the key in all directions. This can sometimes make a bad ignition switch contact. It sounds like a key switch to me. Hi Mark, I did quite a bit of jiggling (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) ... (and then I went over and started shaking and twisting the key in the ignition switch!) I was up too late last night so didn't go look at battery terminal voltage... if the battery is good, I'll start the power tracing.. |
Brian Mifsud |
Sep 27 2006, 09:17 AM
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#10
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Mechanical Engineer Group: Members Posts: 981 Joined: 3-March 03 From: Penngrove, CA Member No.: 384 Region Association: None |
MScott gave me a good tip when I had a like problem. Try a shot of grease to the solenoid switch. Could be sticking before and now just plain stuck. Doesn't cost anything to try and probably needs lube anyhow. Are you decribing the starter solenoid? Even if it is stuck you still get power to the idiot lights and ignition.. I don't understand what you mean.. |
jsteele22 |
Sep 27 2006, 09:46 AM
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#11
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 727 Joined: 24-August 05 From: Colorado Springs, CO Member No.: 4,653 |
Sorry if this is too obvious, but... My guess is that in doing the work, you accidentally bumped/tugged on a wire somewhere. I've had problems with AAR valve wire (insulation was dry/cracked, when it touched ground it would blow a fuse) and MPS connector (one of the contacts in the white plastic connector housing is loose; even the gentlest tug on that would cause the contact to slip out of the housing, just enough to disable the engine.) If none of the specific recommendations other folks have made pan out, I'd just go though the engine bay wiggling, tugging gently (on the the wires, I mean) and looking for anything suspicious. A no-start is a frustrating thing to work out; sometimes you think of the cause, sometimes you just stumble upon it. Good luck |
Toast |
Sep 27 2006, 11:06 AM
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#12
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Not bad for carrying sway bars. Group: Members Posts: 3,377 Joined: 20-January 04 From: Las Vegas Member No.: 1,580 Region Association: Southwest Region |
Do you have an electronic ignition? If so, throw in a set of points and see if that works.
Dont ask me the saga behind why I suggest this. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif) |
cooltimes |
Sep 27 2006, 01:39 PM
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#13
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 2,508 Joined: 18-May 04 Member No.: 2,081 Region Association: None |
Oops. This idiot (me, myself & I) missed seeing that the idiot light was NOT working. I make an F for trying to help. Sorry bout that. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)
MikeCool [/quote] Are you decribing the starter solenoid? Even if it is stuck you still get power to the idiot lights and ignition.. I don't understand what you mean.. [/quote] |
Brian Mifsud |
Sep 27 2006, 05:05 PM
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#14
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Mechanical Engineer Group: Members Posts: 981 Joined: 3-March 03 From: Penngrove, CA Member No.: 384 Region Association: None |
Oops. This idiot (me, myself & I) missed seeing that the idiot light was NOT working. I make an F for trying to help. Sorry bout that. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) MikeCool No apologees needed.. I appreciate the help |
Brian Mifsud |
Sep 27 2006, 05:10 PM
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#15
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Mechanical Engineer Group: Members Posts: 981 Joined: 3-March 03 From: Penngrove, CA Member No.: 384 Region Association: None |
Sorry if this is too obvious, but... My guess is that in doing the work, you accidentally bumped/tugged on a wire somewhere. I've had problems with AAR valve wire (insulation was dry/cracked, when it touched ground it would blow a fuse) and MPS connector (one of the contacts in the white plastic connector housing is loose; even the gentlest tug on that would cause the contact to slip out of the housing, just enough to disable the engine.) If none of the specific recommendations other folks have made pan out, I'd just go though the engine bay wiggling, tugging gently (on the the wires, I mean) and looking for anything suspicious. A no-start is a frustrating thing to work out; sometimes you think of the cause, sometimes you just stumble upon it. Good luck Thanks for the luck.... my luck reservoir got seriously drained several months ago when I had a run-in with 460 VAC and walked away with minor burns.... I definitely have cracked insulation all over the place (hope battery isn't nuked)... I'll start the troubleshooting from the battery... will chime in when I'm clueless (expect much chiming) |
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