Axle adaptor came loose. Damage pics, Grrrrr |
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Axle adaptor came loose. Damage pics, Grrrrr |
Dr. Roger |
Sep 28 2006, 07:58 PM
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#1
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A bat out of hell. Group: Members Posts: 3,944 Joined: 31-January 05 From: Hercules, California Member No.: 3,533 Region Association: Northern California |
No I didn't clean the threads before using blue loc-tite.
When they go on again they are getting safety wire. Period. You can see the broken starter mount tab, broken CV bolt, and broken rear shift bar guide. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/barf.gif) The other CV adaptor was on it's way off as you can see. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer3.gif) Do yourself a favor and check yours regularly. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif) Roger Attached image(s) |
Dr Evil |
Sep 28 2006, 08:03 PM
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#2
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Send me your transmission! Group: Members Posts: 23,002 Joined: 21-November 03 From: Loveland, OH 45140 Member No.: 1,372 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
Ouch (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)
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John |
Sep 28 2006, 08:14 PM
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#3
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member? what's a member? Group: Members Posts: 3,393 Joined: 30-January 04 From: Evansville, IN (SIRPCA) Member No.: 1,615 Region Association: None |
I have had this thought more than once:
Drive shaft loops are a good thing! just one of my thoughts...... |
Series9 |
Sep 28 2006, 08:15 PM
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#4
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Lesbians taste like chicken. Group: Members Posts: 5,444 Joined: 22-August 04 From: DeLand, FL Member No.: 2,602 Region Association: South East States |
Mike Wills was just there with 'ya.
Safty wire for me from now on. It's cheap insurance. Mike, I'll take five sets for stock. |
Cap'n Krusty |
Sep 28 2006, 08:25 PM
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#5
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Cap'n Krusty Group: Members Posts: 10,794 Joined: 24-June 04 From: Santa Maria, CA Member No.: 2,246 Region Association: Central California |
So there's a plate between the CV joint and the output flange, right? And the bolts appear to be countersunk, right?The CV joint bolts themselves appear to be tight, right? Howya gonna safety wire the countersunk bolts? Am I missing something? While you can easily safety the CV joint bolts, they're not the ones that came loose, so what's the purpose of wiring them? It would seem to me that you could engineer the adapter so the bolts tightened flush with the surface to which the CV joint seats. If they're flush when torqued, then they CAN'T back out. End of problem. The Cap'n
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Dr Evil |
Sep 28 2006, 08:28 PM
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#6
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Send me your transmission! Group: Members Posts: 23,002 Joined: 21-November 03 From: Loveland, OH 45140 Member No.: 1,372 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
Mike Wills was just there with 'ya. Safty wire for me from now on. It's cheap insurance. Mike, I'll take five sets for stock. Hey Joe, PM me and I can hook you up (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif) I need to make them up as I donated my last few to the FFC (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif) |
GWN7 |
Sep 28 2006, 08:35 PM
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#7
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King of Road Trips Group: Members Posts: 6,280 Joined: 31-December 02 From: Winnipeg, MB, Canada Member No.: 56 Region Association: Northstar Region |
Mike....how do you wire the inside bolts? (CV to sub axel).....When mine came loose it was them.
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Dr Evil |
Sep 28 2006, 08:48 PM
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#8
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Send me your transmission! Group: Members Posts: 23,002 Joined: 21-November 03 From: Loveland, OH 45140 Member No.: 1,372 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
Mike....how do you wire the inside bolts? (CV to sub axel).....When mine came loose it was them. Hey Bruce, I actually do not as it requires that you remove the stub axle (almost always destroying the bearing) and those hardly ever come loose in my experience. So basically you need to remove the stub axle, bolt it to the CV and wire the bolts, reinstall the stub axle assembly. If you can wire it with the CV still instaleld in the arm on the stub, then you ARE a 914 stud! |
brant |
Sep 28 2006, 08:48 PM
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#9
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914 Wizard Group: Members Posts: 11,637 Joined: 30-December 02 From: Colorado Member No.: 47 Region Association: Rocky Mountains |
its not a loc-tite issue.
I interestingly heard about a new tip last friday that cures this problem the story goes that the 300hp race cars were having these come loose more than 1x per a day. the problem is the gasket. and new gaskets that are typically used. the gasket compresses and then the bolts come loose. my race shop told me that they are using high temp silicone (sorry capt'n) with NO gaskets and have solved the problem now. brant |
John |
Sep 28 2006, 08:53 PM
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#10
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member? what's a member? Group: Members Posts: 3,393 Joined: 30-January 04 From: Evansville, IN (SIRPCA) Member No.: 1,615 Region Association: None |
Removing the inner stub axle doesn't destroy the rear wheel bearing, removing the outer hub does.
My dad had some of the outer (in the trailing arm) come loose on his first drive after re-assembling his car for the first time back in 84'. Since then, I have always simply cleaned all the threads or replaced the bolts and torqued them to specs. I prefer using new bolts. |
Dr Evil |
Sep 28 2006, 08:56 PM
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#11
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Send me your transmission! Group: Members Posts: 23,002 Joined: 21-November 03 From: Loveland, OH 45140 Member No.: 1,372 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
Oh ya, thats right. Its been 3-4 years since I had mine apart (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)
So, ya gotta remove the stub axle (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif) |
JeffBowlsby |
Sep 28 2006, 09:09 PM
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#12
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914 Wiring Harnesses Group: Members Posts: 8,533 Joined: 7-January 03 From: San Ramon CA Member No.: 104 Region Association: None |
Whats the issue? I drive my 94 12K miles a year and have for years, never had a CV bolt come loose. I torque em to spec and use the serrated washers, why do others have issues? Yep I use the stock gaskets and lube too...
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John |
Sep 28 2006, 09:30 PM
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#13
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member? what's a member? Group: Members Posts: 3,393 Joined: 30-January 04 From: Evansville, IN (SIRPCA) Member No.: 1,615 Region Association: None |
Whats the issue? I drive my 94 12K miles a year and have for years, never had a CV bolt come loose. I torque em to spec and use the serrated washers, why do others have issues? Yep I use the stock gaskets and lube too... You may have answered your own question. Typically, with a bunch more HP, these loosening bolts can become an issue. I always check mine when on the lift and do replace the schorr washers each time I have the bolts out. |
brant |
Sep 28 2006, 09:32 PM
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#14
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914 Wizard Group: Members Posts: 11,637 Joined: 30-December 02 From: Colorado Member No.: 47 Region Association: Rocky Mountains |
Whats the issue? I drive my 94 12K miles a year and have for years, never had a CV bolt come loose. I torque em to spec and use the serrated washers, why do others have issues? Yep I use the stock gaskets and lube too... no offense Jeff, but my guess is that the reason you don't have an issue is due to less HP.... at 200hp it becomes a big issue. At 300hp it is a mandatory type situation. but on a street car down to about 120hp new washers are good. I did new washers at 150hp and still had them start to loosen. |
GWN7 |
Sep 28 2006, 09:43 PM
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#15
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King of Road Trips Group: Members Posts: 6,280 Joined: 31-December 02 From: Winnipeg, MB, Canada Member No.: 56 Region Association: Northstar Region |
When mine came loose it was just one side. The same side that had a wheel bearing replaced before I picked up the car. There were missing washers (i'm guessing who ever worked on it dropped some and went "don't need those little things anyway" and they never retorqued the inner ones or they weren't torqued properly. So 2500 miles later it became a nova ( no go) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
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Matt Romanowski |
Sep 29 2006, 09:06 AM
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#16
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 878 Joined: 4-January 04 From: Manchester, NH Member No.: 1,507 |
Whats the issue? I drive my 94 12K miles a year and have for years, never had a CV bolt come loose. I torque em to spec and use the serrated washers, why do others have issues? Yep I use the stock gaskets and lube too... I'm with Jeff. I'm at ~175 hp and never have trouble. The worry of clean threads is incorrect. Anyone torque rod bolts dry? Case bolts? Head Bolts? A lubricated thread inceases the actual torque applied. I've never had any come loose - street cars, track cars, 911s, 944s. |
GS Guy |
Sep 29 2006, 09:37 AM
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#17
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Member Group: Members Posts: 243 Joined: 8-July 04 From: Columbia, MD Member No.: 2,325 Region Association: North East States |
Need a set of these "we don need no stink'n adapters" output stubs. 100mm CV straight bolt-on. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
Hey Mike, I need some sets of the bolts too - I'll PM you. Jeff Attached image(s) |
Cap'n Krusty |
Sep 29 2006, 10:14 AM
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#18
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Cap'n Krusty Group: Members Posts: 10,794 Joined: 24-June 04 From: Santa Maria, CA Member No.: 2,246 Region Association: Central California |
Mike....how do you wire the inside bolts? (CV to sub axel).....When mine came loose it was them. Hey Bruce, I actually do not as it requires that you remove the stub axle (almost always destroying the bearing) and those hardly ever come loose in my experience. So basically you need to remove the stub axle, bolt it to the CV and wire the bolts, reinstall the stub axle assembly. If you can wire it with the CV still instaleld in the arm on the stub, then you ARE a 914 stud! And how does removing the stub axle damage the bearing? The hub remains in the bearing, the stub axle slides out of the hub. I fail to see the connection. The Cap'n |
Cap'n Krusty |
Sep 29 2006, 10:17 AM
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#19
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Cap'n Krusty Group: Members Posts: 10,794 Joined: 24-June 04 From: Santa Maria, CA Member No.: 2,246 Region Association: Central California |
its not a loc-tite issue. I interestingly heard about a new tip last friday that cures this problem the story goes that the 300hp race cars were having these come loose more than 1x per a day. the problem is the gasket. and new gaskets that are typically used. the gasket compresses and then the bolts come loose. my race shop told me that they are using high temp silicone (sorry capt'n) with NO gaskets and have solved the problem now. brant "Sorry"? Don't be. I've used RTV for that purpose for decades. As long as it has time to dry, it's perfect for the application. It's just in the engine, tranny, and body apps like windows, etc., that I wouldn't use it. The Cap'n |
jsteele22 |
Sep 29 2006, 10:50 AM
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#20
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 727 Joined: 24-August 05 From: Colorado Springs, CO Member No.: 4,653 |
Whats the issue? I drive my 94 12K miles a year and have for years, never had a CV bolt come loose. I torque em to spec and use the serrated washers, why do others have issues? Yep I use the stock gaskets and lube too... no offense Jeff, but my guess is that the reason you don't have an issue is due to less HP.... at 200hp it becomes a big issue. At 300hp it is a mandatory type situation. but on a street car down to about 120hp new washers are good. I did new washers at 150hp and still had them start to loosen. Brant, I'm a little confused. Are you saying that on higher-HP cars new washers are not the way to go ? Or just that even using new washers is not enough ? Jeff B, When you say "serrated" washers, is that the same as the stock ones ? I seem to recall that they were smooth but wavy. Are you using something different ? The more I hear about bolts coming loose (this seems to be the season) the more I'm leaning to welded-on adapter plates.... |
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