relocating fuel pump to front on 73, can i grab the fuel pump hot wire up front? |
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relocating fuel pump to front on 73, can i grab the fuel pump hot wire up front? |
orange914 |
Apr 3 2007, 10:43 PM
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#1
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http://5starmediaworks.com/index.html Group: Members Posts: 3,371 Joined: 26-March 05 From: Ceres, California Member No.: 3,818 Region Association: Northern California |
relocating fuel pump to front on my 73, (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) can i grab the fuel pump hot wire from harness in front area? if so what color, where and would it be easier than runnig hot from rear location (up the tunnel, as its open anyway 'cause im doing fuel lines).
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SirAndy |
Apr 3 2007, 11:19 PM
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#2
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Resident German Group: Admin Posts: 41,669 Joined: 21-January 03 From: Oakland, Kalifornia Member No.: 179 Region Association: Northern California |
can i grab the fuel pump hot wire from harness in front area? that all depends on what induction you're running ... enlighten us ... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) Andy |
Hammy |
Apr 4 2007, 01:18 AM
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#3
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mr. Wonderful Group: Members Posts: 1,826 Joined: 20-October 04 From: Columbia, California Member No.: 2,978 Region Association: Northern California |
It's a stock 73.
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Bartlett 914 |
Apr 4 2007, 07:23 AM
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#4
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 2,216 Joined: 30-August 05 From: South Elgin IL Member No.: 4,707 Region Association: Upper MidWest |
There is no fuel pump wire in the front for a 73. Best is to run the wire from the rear. It is a little tricky. The wire runs from the relay board to the large connector in the middle of the front engine shelf. It then loops back and goes to the fuel pump cable to the pump location under the Hell hole. You could probably get away with running only the supply wire and using a ground near the pump for the return. It also may be easier to run a completely new wire from the relay board to the front instead of pulling the original wire. Be sure to either cut off the original wire or tape it off at the old pump location.
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IronHillRestorations |
Apr 4 2007, 07:28 AM
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#5
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I. I. R. C. Group: Members Posts: 6,724 Joined: 18-March 03 From: West TN Member No.: 439 Region Association: None |
You could tap onto any fuse above #6, and it would be switched. I would confirm this by hooking up a test light as well as checking the amperage of the fuse. Sorry it's early and I don't have my notes here. I have done this myself without any problems. I have also incorporated a switch and on one installation an inertia cutoff switch.
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SLITS |
Apr 4 2007, 07:46 AM
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#6
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"This Utah shit is HARSH!" Group: Benefactors Posts: 13,602 Joined: 22-February 04 From: SoCal Mountains ... Member No.: 1,696 Region Association: None |
I pulled both the hot lead and ground lead out of the harness and ran them thru the center tunnel to the front for the fuel pump. Just a little work, but .......... This way I kept the fuel pump circuit intact from the relay board.
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ClayPerrine |
Apr 4 2007, 08:42 AM
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#7
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Life's been good to me so far..... Group: Admin Posts: 15,503 Joined: 11-September 03 From: Hurst, TX. Member No.: 1,143 Region Association: NineFourteenerVille |
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)
I pull the hot lead for the pump back to the point where it can be turned up the harness heading forward. Then I extend it, following the harness until I get under the tank. I add a ground wire that is hooked to the ground connection next to the fuse box. Works just like the factory intended. And that is how the factory did it on the 75/76 cars. |
dr914@autoatlanta.com |
Apr 4 2007, 08:49 AM
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#8
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914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 7,887 Joined: 3-January 07 From: atlanta georgia Member No.: 7,418 Region Association: None |
sounds like it is time for the factory authorized fuel pump relocation kit!!!!!
Please do not hot wire the fuel injection fuel pump!!! |
r_towle |
Apr 4 2007, 10:01 AM
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#9
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Custom Member Group: Members Posts: 24,585 Joined: 9-January 03 From: Taxachusetts Member No.: 124 Region Association: North East States |
go to HD in the wiring department.
They have a two wire, bl/red wire that is covered in a gray sheath. I just plug that into the existing circuit, and because of the sheath, you can slid it into the tunnel, grab it at the rear access panel inside the car, and keep pulling. Simple, correct circuit, and a no brainer for me. Rich |
toon1 |
Apr 4 2007, 10:36 AM
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#10
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,849 Joined: 29-October 05 From: tracy,ca Member No.: 5,022 |
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) I pull the hot lead for the pump back to the point where it can be turned up the harness heading forward. Then I extend it, following the harness until I get under the tank. I add a ground wire that is hooked to the ground connection next to the fuse box. Works just like the factory intended. And that is how the factory did it on the 75/76 cars. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) run both wires + and - fron the engine bay wire harness i.e. tap into what's there and run it forward. If you are running one it's easy enough to run the other. the fuel pump relay is timmed to run for 2 seconds to prime the system and then stut off. if you do it any other way it will run continuous and will not be tied into the FI circut. Keith |
buck toenges |
Apr 4 2007, 11:38 AM
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#11
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 553 Joined: 25-November 03 From: Fort wayne In Member No.: 1,388 Region Association: None |
What color are the wires from the relay board? and which pins # are they from? I assume it is a red wire and a brn wire but where on the relay connector are they hooked onto? I have that grey sheath with the red and black wires but I need to know which wires to hook them to. Should I spice them into the wire or should I solder the pins to the wires and hook them up in the harness to the relay board?
Buck |
SirAndy |
Apr 4 2007, 11:54 AM
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#12
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Resident German Group: Admin Posts: 41,669 Joined: 21-January 03 From: Oakland, Kalifornia Member No.: 179 Region Association: Northern California |
on a stock FI car, you don't want to hotwire the fuel pump because it's controlled by the FI brain!
the best thing to do, IMHO, is to leave the original harness intact. don't cut anywhere. simply run two wires from the old pump location to the new pump location. plug the new wires into the existing fuel pump connectors at the harness in the stock location, simply extending the existing circuit. that way, you keep the stock relay AND the brain still controls the pump ... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/bye1.gif) Andy |
sean_v8_914 |
Apr 4 2007, 12:03 PM
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#13
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Chingon 601 Group: Members Posts: 4,011 Joined: 1-February 05 From: San Diego Member No.: 3,541 |
I agree w Andy. that is how I did mine
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buck toenges |
Apr 4 2007, 12:10 PM
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#14
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 553 Joined: 25-November 03 From: Fort wayne In Member No.: 1,388 Region Association: None |
How do you plug the new wires into the fuel pump connector? Do you need some sort of connector? Do you just shove the wires in the connector and then electrical tape the crap out of it?
Buck |
ClayPerrine |
Apr 4 2007, 12:13 PM
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#15
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Life's been good to me so far..... Group: Admin Posts: 15,503 Joined: 11-September 03 From: Hurst, TX. Member No.: 1,143 Region Association: NineFourteenerVille |
How do you plug the new wires into the fuel pump connector? Do you need some sort of connector? Do you just shove the wires in the connector and then electrical tape the crap out of it? Buck I think leaving the connector there is a way to invite a future failure. I would at least remove the connector and reuse it on the other end to hook up the fuel pump. And a ground is a ground is a ground. It is an excersize in extra work to run the ground wire all the way to the front, when there is already a ground point a lot closer. |
toon1 |
Apr 4 2007, 12:25 PM
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#16
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,849 Joined: 29-October 05 From: tracy,ca Member No.: 5,022 |
i cut the FP connector off, spliced the new wires to the old by soldering them and putting heat shrink over the splice.
I reattached the connector the same way in the new location. worked gud for me (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) |
toon1 |
Apr 4 2007, 12:34 PM
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#17
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,849 Joined: 29-October 05 From: tracy,ca Member No.: 5,022 |
BTW.... if you relocate the pump you also need to relocate the filter. when I did mine I cut the filter holder off in the engine bay and re welded in the fuel tank bay, under the fuel tank .
worked great, I can get the filter out through the access hole under the car to change it. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) Keith |
SirAndy |
Apr 4 2007, 12:42 PM
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#18
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Resident German Group: Admin Posts: 41,669 Joined: 21-January 03 From: Oakland, Kalifornia Member No.: 179 Region Association: Northern California |
three things:
- clay is correct about the ground. you can leave the ground wire and just hook up ground in the front. - i agree it would be best to reuse the round plastic connector to plug into your pump. all you need to do is to bend the little pins to get the existing wires out of it. - they are simple spade connectors, so by crimping a male end on a wire, you can plug into the stock female end and get a good connection without ANY cutting of stock wires. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/bye1.gif) Andy |
IronHillRestorations |
Apr 4 2007, 01:01 PM
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#19
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I. I. R. C. Group: Members Posts: 6,724 Joined: 18-March 03 From: West TN Member No.: 439 Region Association: None |
Clay and Andy are right about the FI thing, the cars I've done this on are carb'd.
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orange914 |
Apr 4 2007, 04:04 PM
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#20
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http://5starmediaworks.com/index.html Group: Members Posts: 3,371 Joined: 26-March 05 From: Ceres, California Member No.: 3,818 Region Association: Northern California |
i cut the FP connector off, spliced the new wires to the old by soldering them and putting heat shrink over the splice. I reattached the connector the same way in the new location. worked gud for me (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) thats my plan along with running thru the tunnel thanks all |
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