 any tips on re-welding a trunk hinge?, how do remove the grill above the battery? |
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| parked 15 years |
 Jan 29 2009, 03:52 AM
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Newbie  Group: Members Posts: 25 Joined: 28-December 08 From: ouray co. Member No.: 9,874 Region Association: None  |
im trying to fix the rear trunk [hinge mount to body] on the pass.side & dont know how to remove the grill above the battery.
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Replies(1 - 7)
| southernmost914 |
Jan 29 2009, 06:32 AM
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#2
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KEY WEST/HAVANA Tunnel Authority Group: Members Posts: 338 Joined: 16-October 07 From: Key West/ St. Augie, Fl USA Member No.: 8,234 Region Association: South East States 
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There are 3 rubber covered slide on clips that slide on pins on the grill. The front pin(1) faces towards the front of the car and is horizonal. Two (2)pin on the rear of the grill are vertical. These are the same type clips that hold the PORSCHE letters on the grill. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
Steve |
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| ArtechnikA |
Jan 29 2009, 06:32 AM
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#3
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rich herzog Group: Members Posts: 7,390 Joined: 4-April 03 From: Salted Roads, PA Member No.: 513 Region Association: None |
QUOTE(parked 15 years @ Jan 29 2009, 04:52 AM)  im trying to fix the rear trunk [hinge mount to body] on the pass.side & dont know how to remove the grill above the battery. it's fastened like the other grille bits - little rubber speed nuts on the back of pins that fit through the mating parts. Picture an earring back... They're hard to get to - diagonal cutters can be used (IIRC - been a while) to wedge in behind them and gently pull them off. |
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| SLITS |
Jan 29 2009, 07:59 AM
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#4
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"This Utah shit is HARSH!" Group: Benefactors Posts: 13,602 Joined: 22-February 04 From: SoCal Mountains ... Member No.: 1,696 Region Association: None  |
I didn't bother removing the grill. Located proper postion of the mount. Pop riveted it to hold it (one rivet each side) .... stuck my head in the engine compartment and welded it in place.
I also cut the torsion bars out and went to gas shock kit to avoid it happening again. |
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| McMark |
Jan 29 2009, 11:39 AM
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#5
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914 Freak! Group: Retired Admin Posts: 20,179 Joined: 13-March 03 From: Grand Rapids, MI Member No.: 419 Region Association: None |
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) I don't have to remove the grill. Remove the old one completely (nice flat metal), bolt the hinge bracket to the hinge arm, bolt the hinge arm to the rear lid, install everything and have someone hold the rear lid in the correct location then tack-weld the bracket. Carefully remove all the bolts, and finish welding.
Also, make sure to add extra welds to the bracket. They tend to break. If you weld them like I have pictured here, then you need to make sure they don't protrude above the level of the bolt plate. You can also weld the backside, but make sure not to weld into the threads. Best to make sure the threads are clear with an 8mm x 1.25 tap before you weld it in. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads/post-419-1221810844.jpg) |
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| parked 15 years |
Jan 29 2009, 11:41 AM
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#6
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Newbie Group: Members Posts: 25 Joined: 28-December 08 From: ouray co. Member No.: 9,874 Region Association: None |
QUOTE(SLITS @ Jan 29 2009, 05:59 AM) I didn't bother removing the grill. Located proper postion of the mount. Pop riveted it to hold it (one rivet each side) .... stuck my head in the engine compartment and welded it in place. I also cut the torsion bars out and went to gas shock kit to avoid it happening again. thanks, back to the garage! i didnt want to break the thing & good advice really helps ! |
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| IronHillRestorations |
Jan 29 2009, 12:40 PM
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#7
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I. I. R. C. Group: Members Posts: 6,732 Joined: 18-March 03 From: West TN Member No.: 439 Region Association: None
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(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) with Mark. Welding the threaded insert is a must. I go a little further and add more material to the bottom of the hinge bracket. I fold a piece of 16 gauge, sort of like a small piece of angle iron, and weld that to the bottom half. I cut a weep hole so it can't fill up with water. Wish I had a pic, sorry.
I find it easiest to bolt the hinge bracket to the deck lid (in the middle of the slots) with a washer between the lid and the bracket, and then bolt the bracket to the hinge cup with the shoulder bolt, and put the deck lid in the absolute correct postion, and then fasten the cup to the inner wall. I've got Clecos, which are much easier to use than pop rivets or sheet metal screws, but whatever it takes. I punch holes in the flange of the hinge cup, and make my welds in the holes. After you make each weld, you've got to have someone hold a dolly behind the wall (in the wheel house) and tap the flange tight against the wall. Every time you make a weld the hinge cup will pull away from the wall a little, so you've got to make sure to get it flush prior to every weld. Sorry, I wish I had taken pics the last time I did this. |
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| PanelBilly |
Jan 29 2009, 02:18 PM
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#8
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914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 5,819 Joined: 23-July 06 From: Kent, Wa Member No.: 6,488 Region Association: Pacific Northwest
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These answered are way too simplified. OK, first your going to need to drop the engine and pull the interior out. Stripping off every item that isn't welded on comes next, followed by a full walnut blasting or a chemical dip if your thinking of cutting open the longs for inspection and new heater ducting.
You just can't fix the part that's broken, you have to go full bore. This is a 914 after all. |
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