engine overhaul or swap?, engine choice on a rebuild Options

[timofly]

We have a 1974 914 2.0 in need of an engine. The car has been sitting for 30+ years. It will run, sort of, but leaks oil like a cardboard tanker. The F.I. checks out electrically, but the engine won't accelerate. So, if we have to fool around with it, we should consider the following choices:

1. overhaul the existng engine
2. replace the engine with a rebuild from ?
3. try to resurrect the F.I.
4. just carburate it.

Who has experience with overhaulers they'd share? How about "new" engine providers? I gather from some postings here that "Import World" doesn't enjoy lots of support from this group? Who else? We are looking for a stock engine or maybe a mild warming for street use.

What say you, O Mighty Tribe?

[rick 918-S]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/welcome.png) Someone from the east will come along eventually for a shop suggestion near you. Keep the typeIV. Fix the injection.

[McMark]

Check compression and leak down before tearing into it. It might need only something simple in order to get it running.

[dbgriffith75]

Check compression and leak down before tearing into it. It might need only something simple in order to get it running.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

If it's been sitting for 30+ years, a compression/leakdown test will basically give you the answer you're looking for. I don't know exact numbers, but at a minimum you should have at least 90 on each cylinder. My money is on, at the very least, the rings being stuck.

But, I DO have to ask- you did make sure to put some fresh oil in it before firing it up, didn't you? Although it's generally not considered a 914 unless it's leaking oil from somewhere (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) it's probably leaking because you have some seals that are dried out. Who knows, maybe if you get the engine going and run it nice and hot, some of them will expand and soften up again.

Let us know what you find out, and....

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/welcome.png)

[timofly]

Check compression and leak down before tearing into it. It might need only something simple in order to get it running.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

If it's been sitting for 30+ years, a compression/leakdown test will basically give you the answer you're looking for. I don't know exact numbers, but at a minimum you should have at least 90 on each cylinder. My money is on, at the very least, the rings being stuck.

But, I DO have to ask- you did make sure to put some fresh oil in it before firing it up, didn't you? Although it's generally not considered a 914 unless it's leaking oil from somewhere (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) it's probably leaking because you have some seals that are dried out. Who knows, maybe if you get the engine going and run it nice and hot, some of them will expand and soften up again.

Let us know what you find out, and....

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/welcome.png)

Thanks for the response.

Yup. We soaked it with Marvel Mystery oil for about a week, just rocking the car back and forth in gear before even trying to start it. Drained all that, filled with new oil and filter, installed new plugs and wires and cleaned the injectors. It starts ok, but will only idle. I think it's gotta be vaccuum leaks because the sensors all seem to check out OK. It will either idle very fast or very slow, depending on whether I plug the vaccuum line from the intake manifold to the air cleaner or not.

The seals around the pushrods are the main leaks. Good point about running it to see if they will seal better with some use.

I'll do the comp test and let you know.

[McMark]

the vaccuum line from the intake manifold to the air cleaner

This doesn't sound right. There shouldn't be any hoses that go directly from the plenum to the air filter box. There are some good hose diagrams on the site here.

[timofly]

the vaccuum line from the intake manifold to the air cleaner

This doesn't sound right. There shouldn't be any hoses that go directly from the plenum to the air filter box. There are some good hose diagrams on the site here.

You are right. I sit here typing and the car is in the barn, so I incorrectly routed the hose in my email. The hose I was referring to runs from the aux air regulator to the air filter box. We tested the valve on the bench and it would close when heated with a hair dryer.

Will try replacing vacuum hoses next. Just did the fuel lines since it was spraying fuel all over the place from multiple places. Pretty exciting and my kids were taking bets on how long it would be before Dad blew himself up.

Still looking for some advice about engine rebuilders...Anybody out there?

[dbgriffith75]

Still looking for some advice about engine rebuilders...Anybody out there?

You're looking for someone to rebuild it for you or someone to advise you on how to do it?

And what did you find with the compression check, anyway?

Let us know.

[McMark]

Still looking for some advice about engine rebuilders...Anybody out there?

What 'cho wanna know? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/cool.gif)

[r_towle]

When I find these old motors, I typically pull the motor and replace all the seals.
Front and rear main seals.
Push rod tube seals.
Oil pressure sensor
Oil cooler seals
Fuel Injector seals
Valve cover gaskets.
Oil sump gaskets
Oil temp gaskets (if so equipped)


I also remove the head tin and clean all the flamable mouse nests that are in there before they catch fire.

I would suggest that you do a leak down test to see how well it holds a seal...then go from there.

If you want a turn key motor, McMark will do one for you...PM him.
Jake Raby also does turn key motors, but those are bigger.

For local shops, you need to track down Ray Mital..he is around here somewhere and he knows alot of the shops in NJ and NY

Rich

[timofly]

Rich, thanks a lot.

The worst of the leaks seem to be coming from the push rod seals. What makes that bad is that it drips right on to the heat exchangers and I'm afraid I'll set the whole thing on fire. Lots of smoke from the exhaust too. But it did run well and accellerate normally. I think that a rebuild is in order as this engine may only have 60K miles on it.

Looked at Jake Raby's site and was pretty impressed. I'll look for Mital. Have you got any feedaback for Import World in CA? They have a bunch of engines, suspiciously cheap.

The closest shop to me is Powertech in Boonton, NJ (Mike Daino) They seem like good guys. Ever dealt with them?

Our biggest problem is time. We have brought this car about as far as we can with the time available, but time is hard to come by. On the time vs money scale, we are shorter of time at the present, and we'd like to get this car done!

Thanks for any suggestions.

When I find these old motors, I typically pull the motor and replace all the seals.
Front and rear main seals.
Push rod tube seals.
Oil pressure sensor
Oil cooler seals
Fuel Injector seals
Valve cover gaskets.
Oil sump gaskets
Oil temp gaskets (if so equipped)


I also remove the head tin and clean all the flamable mouse nests that are in there before they catch fire.

I would suggest that you do a leak down test to see how well it holds a seal...then go from there.

If you want a turn key motor, McMark will do one for you...PM him.
Jake Raby also does turn key motors, but those are bigger.

For local shops, you need to track down Ray Mital..he is around here somewhere and he knows alot of the shops in NJ and NY

Rich

[r_towle]

contact McMark and buy his 5k motor rebuild...done.

RIch