Home  |  Forums  |  914 Info  |  Blogs
 
914World.com - The fastest growing online 914 community!
 
Porsche, and the Porsche crest are registered trademarks of Dr. Ing. h.c. F. Porsche AG. This site is not affiliated with Porsche in any way.
Its only purpose is to provide an online forum for car enthusiasts. All other trademarks are property of their respective owners.
 

Welcome Guest ( Log In | Register )

> Shif lever too close to my leg, how big of a hassle to move it and inch or two?
bryanf
post May 12 2009, 05:13 PM
Post #1


Member
**

Group: Members
Posts: 105
Joined: 18-January 06
From: Half Moon Bay, CA
Member No.: 5,435



Hey all, I switched back to my stock humongous steering wheel and now things are pretty tight between the wheel and the gear shift...how easy is it to move change the pivot point without screwing up the linkage?

TIA

Bryan
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
 
Reply to this topicStart new topic
Replies(1 - 13)
VaccaRabite
post May 12 2009, 05:16 PM
Post #2


En Garde!
**********

Group: Admin
Posts: 13,465
Joined: 15-December 03
From: Dallastown, PA
Member No.: 1,435
Region Association: MidAtlantic Region



Would be easier to get a rennshift or a weltmiester short throw.

Zach
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
bryanf
post May 12 2009, 05:20 PM
Post #3


Member
**

Group: Members
Posts: 105
Joined: 18-January 06
From: Half Moon Bay, CA
Member No.: 5,435



thought about a short throw--but I'm trying to put it back to stock as much as is reasonable...(don't know why, just cuz I guess)
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
type2man
post May 12 2009, 06:56 PM
Post #4


Member
**

Group: Members
Posts: 353
Joined: 3-March 09
From: Miami, Fl
Member No.: 10,127
Region Association: South East States



You could also remove the shifter and have someone heat it up and bend it a little in the direction you want. Then just have it rechromed and install it once again. You could also pick up a used shifter off a parts car and mess with it instead of goobering up your original shifter.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
Elliot Cannon
post May 12 2009, 07:22 PM
Post #5


914 Guru
*****

Group: Retired Members
Posts: 8,487
Joined: 29-December 06
From: Paso Robles Ca. (Central coast)
Member No.: 7,407
Region Association: None



QUOTE(bryanf @ May 12 2009, 04:20 PM) *

thought about a short throw--but I'm trying to put it back to stock as much as is reasonable...(don't know why, just cuz I guess)


You want to keep it as stock as possible. It might be a WHOLE lot easier to put the smaller steering wheel back on instead of re-locating or bending the shifter. Later if you want to sell it and claim it is a very stock car, you can put the old steering wheel back on.
Cheers, Elliot
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
dbgriffith75
post May 12 2009, 07:24 PM
Post #6


TheGrif
***

Group: Members
Posts: 509
Joined: 25-July 07
From: Iowa, USA
Member No.: 7,945
Region Association: Upper MidWest



QUOTE(Elliot Cannon @ May 12 2009, 08:22 PM) *

QUOTE(bryanf @ May 12 2009, 04:20 PM) *

thought about a short throw--but I'm trying to put it back to stock as much as is reasonable...(don't know why, just cuz I guess)


You want to keep it as stock as possible. It might be a WHOLE lot easier to put the smaller steering wheel back on instead of re-locating or bending the shifter. Later if you want to sell it and claim it is a very stock car, you can put the old steering wheel back on.
Cheers, Elliot



(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)
Excellent point.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
Wilhelm
post May 12 2009, 07:28 PM
Post #7


Member
**

Group: Members
Posts: 408
Joined: 7-September 07
From: Hooterville, OR
Member No.: 8,088
Region Association: None



Are all your bushings fairly fresh? When I replaced mine a lot of the slop in the shift tower disappeared. The problem with adjusting the slip collars on the linkage is that the reverse lockout is spring-loaded into the shift tower. If you adjust it so that 1st and reverse are more in the midline you run the risk of grinding reverse when you are trying to hit second. Therefore if the bushings are good and the lever is to far to the left then bending the shift lever makes some sense.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
charliew
post May 12 2009, 09:55 PM
Post #8


Advanced Member
****

Group: Members
Posts: 2,363
Joined: 31-July 07
From: Crawford, TX.
Member No.: 7,958



I'll bet the bushings are gone that would require a lot more motion in the shifter side to side.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
bryanf
post May 13 2009, 10:44 AM
Post #9


Member
**

Group: Members
Posts: 105
Joined: 18-January 06
From: Half Moon Bay, CA
Member No.: 5,435



Bushings are new and everything is nice and tight...Just too close to my leg. I probably just have weird anatomy. Oh well, I can certainly live with it...

Thanks for the suggestions...
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
GeorgeRud
post May 13 2009, 04:52 PM
Post #10


Advanced Member
****

Group: Members
Posts: 3,725
Joined: 27-July 05
From: Chicagoland
Member No.: 4,482
Region Association: Upper MidWest



I've got the same problem with mine, and I think that the idea of getting another shift lever and having it bent to the passenger side is the most reasonable option. You should be able to get one from someone that has converted to the Rennshift system, and it shouldn't be that much of a hassle to have it bent. I tried to adjust it to sit further to the right, but you do run into problems trying to get all the gears.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
Krieger
post May 13 2009, 08:15 PM
Post #11


Advanced Member
****

Group: Members
Posts: 4,727
Joined: 24-May 04
From: Santa Rosa CA
Member No.: 2,104
Region Association: None



I had the same problem. I took the lever assembly out of the car and clamped the lower portion of it(that connects to the shift rod) I put some vise grips on that lovely crome (near the base) and rotated the shift rod about 20* counterclock wise. Don't know if it was broke or if I broke itbut its been that way for 9 years or so.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
aircooledtechguy
post May 14 2009, 09:26 AM
Post #12


The Aircooledtech Guy
***

Group: Members
Posts: 1,966
Joined: 8-November 08
From: Anacortes, WA
Member No.: 9,730
Region Association: Pacific Northwest



This was the first modification I did to my 914. It's real easy.

1. Remove the shifter and remove the shaft from the shift assembly.
2. Then chuck it into a vice with the end that attaches to the linkage in the jaws.
3. Use a torch and heat the epoxy that bonds the chrome shaft to the forged base by the ball end. Yes, it's just epoxied in place(!) This will break the bond and the shaft will move free.
4. Clean all the epoxy off the end of the shaft with a wire brush or wheel
5. Position the shaft as you want it to be and tack weld it in place with a MIG or TIG welder. I found that the shift rod was originally pointed about 15 degrees toward the driver. If I repositioned it so that it was in a straight back configuration, I was comfortable to drive with the stock wheel.
6. Verify the position in the car and if O.K., finish weld the part.

Mine is very comfortable to drive now with the stock wheel installed. Hope this helps. . .


Attached image(s)
Attached Image
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
rascobo
post May 15 2009, 09:20 AM
Post #13


Member
**

Group: Members
Posts: 203
Joined: 26-July 07
From: Portland,OR.
Member No.: 7,948
Region Association: Pacific Northwest



QUOTE(aircooledtechguy @ May 14 2009, 08:26 AM) *

This was the first modification I did to my 914. It's real easy.

1. Remove the shifter and remove the shaft from the shift assembly.
2. Then chuck it into a vice with the end that attaches to the linkage in the jaws.
3. Use a torch and heat the epoxy that bonds the chrome shaft to the forged base by the ball end. Yes, it's just epoxied in place(!) This will break the bond and the shaft will move free.
4. Clean all the epoxy off the end of the shaft with a wire brush or wheel
5. Position the shaft as you want it to be and tack weld it in place with a MIG or TIG welder. I found that the shift rod was originally pointed about 15 degrees toward the driver. If I repositioned it so that it was in a straight back configuration, I was comfortable to drive with the stock wheel.
6. Verify the position in the car and if O.K., finish weld the part.

Mine is very comfortable to drive now with the stock wheel installed. Hope this helps. . .


Sounds good,but can't tell what it looks like finished from the one photo......
More Pics!
Oh, yeah..... 'Please' (IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif)
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
aircooledtechguy
post May 15 2009, 12:29 PM
Post #14


The Aircooledtech Guy
***

Group: Members
Posts: 1,966
Joined: 8-November 08
From: Anacortes, WA
Member No.: 9,730
Region Association: Pacific Northwest



QUOTE(rascobo @ May 15 2009, 08:20 AM) *

Sounds good,but can't tell what it looks like finished from the one photo......
More Pics!
Oh, yeah..... 'Please' (IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif)


The above photo was a shot of the epoxy from the factory; sorry I forgot to specify that. This is a shot of the installed shifter with about 5 tack welds at the shift rod base. The shift knob is now directly aft of the shifter base rather than being toward the driver's leg (and in the way). Hope this helps. . .


Attached image(s)
Attached Image
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post

Reply to this topicStart new topic
1 User(s) are reading this topic (1 Guests and 0 Anonymous Users)
0 Members:

 



- Lo-Fi Version Time is now: 9th June 2024 - 07:21 PM