Now, to tune the weber 40 IDF Options

[purple]

I know it's been rehashed over and over again....

I have some questions on how to do it after futzing around in the garage trying to make SOMETHING happen.

I followed the carb clinic instructions to the T and I think something is adjusted wrong... Maybe you guys can help.

I have the idle speed screws to 1/2 turn past first contact with the arms

linkage disconnected

air bypass screws all the way shut.

all mixture screws out 1.5 turns

it'll start and run (slowly) and it'll get to what i think is around 450 rpm or something. really slow..

the only way I can get it to idle at 450 or so is by having the mixture screws in pretty far. two cylinders dont even react past a certain point! i can have them all the way in (lightly) and the engine doesnt change its note at all!

Please ask me questions so I can give the right info. I've never done this before but i'd like to believe these arent fiddly carbs.

When they say the engine should 'speed up' is it a really noticeable change? because mine's so subtle as to be not affected.

please help guys!

these are brand new carbs from jake's store. I have the box that says what the jetting is. i'll post that soon.

what are 'jets' and what do they do?

[IronHillRestorations]

You may have to turn the idle stop screws in more to raise the idle, the 1/2 turn is just a rough adjustment.

Here's my carb tuning proceedure from a March 03 post:

Assumptions: the carbs have the optimum jet and venturi package (good luck on this one), the float level in the carbs is correct, the cams are correctly timed, the valves are properly adjusted, the ignition timing is dead on, you have the proper spark plugs for your engine, the linkage is good, the fuel is good, the engine is good.

Remember that the mixture and air bypass adjustment screws are precision needle valves, not head gaskets. Use your fingers to tighten them, not your fist.
Start and warm up the engine.
Make sure the two drop links for the throttle linkage are exactly the same length, and disconnected. You can use a 8mm thin igntion wrench to snap them off.
Turn the mixture screws all the way in and then 5 half turns out.
Turn the air bypass screws all the way in.
Turn the idle speed screws out til it just touches, and then in 5 half turns.
Put on your hearing protection and start the car.
Use your STE and find the barrel that pulls the most. We'll call this one baseline.
Balance the barrel in the other carb that pulls the most with the idle speed screw. (if you have a Uni-syn, give it to someone you don't like and purchase a STE airflow meter)
Go back to the other carb, with the baseline barrel. You will have one all the way in, then use the air bypass screws and balance the other two barrels.
Go to the other carb and do the same thing.
Snug the jamb nuts on the air bypass screws.
All six barrels should pull the same amount of air at this point, if not repeat air adjustment proceedure.
Snap the throttle linkage drop links back on the carbs. If the idle changes then you need to barely adjust the linkage mounts so snapping the drop links on, doesn't change the side to side idle balance.
Use the hand throttle or a vice grip and rag to lock the linkage between 1400 and 1800 rpm.
Start back at the baseline barrel and adjust the mixture screw in or out, to get the smoothest running and highest idle, then turn it in 1/4 turn.
Do the same with the five other mixture screws.
If you have to turn the mixture screws more than two turns either way, you've got the wrong jets.
Recheck side to side and individual air balance, adjust as needed.
Road test the car.
If you get snapping and poping out the intake, it's generally a lean condition.
If you get heavy exhaust fumes, or pboofing out the exhaust it's probably too rich.
If you get a flat spot or popping out the intake at between 2800 and 3200 rpm, you probably need larger idle jets.

That's a rough, five minute draft of my carb tuning proceedure, hope it helps!

If it goes good it should take about 45 minutes, if not about three years.

PK