WOT - Any Ford 5.0 gurus on this site?, Need some "while I'm in there' advice Options

[anderssj]

Sorry, absolutely no 914 content . . . but thought this might be a good place to turn for honest advice if there are any knowledgeable Ford 5.0 folks out there.

Last weekend I finally started to the install parts I've been gathering for our Ford-engined Volvo ("Fjord") wagon. These include GT40 heads, Cobra intake manifold, 65mm throttle body (with a 70mm MAF and a set of 24# injectors still on the shelf). While the work isn't going as smoothly as I'd hoped, the delays give me an opportunity to look at what else I should do "while I'm in there."

One of the recommendations I'm getting from the local shop is to install "roller rockers" (1.7:1 ratio, same as on the 94-95 Mustang Cobras). I can understand some of the benefits (greater valve lift, less friction, lower oil temps), but I'm not hearing any disadvantages (other than "some clearancing of the valve covers may be required").

So, what are goods, bads, and uglies associated 1.7:1 RR's? Will I be giving up bottom-end compared to the stock rockers (1.6:1 pressed steel)?

Any advice--especially BTDT's--would be great.

Thanks in advance!

Steve A-

[byndbad914]

I managed and built all the engines at Ford Performance Solutions for a few years in the late 90s... just for background info.

The higher ratio on a rocker arm simply increases overall valve lift. So you want to use the ratio to maximize higher flow rates, assuming they exist at the lift you end up with. So that brings me to the GT40 heads - they aren't really that great, but they're good for what I think you want to do. You should consider porting them. Additionally, you REALLY need to dump the stock cam and go with a little hotter cam to take advantage of the parts you bought. There is a lot of advertising lingo with cams and guys talk level 2 or stage 2 etc... those cams are typically in the 220 dur @ 050 int range and 228-ish @ 050 exh, which 8 deg additional exh works well with a GT40 head as its exh doesn't flow as well as some other aftermarket heads.

If you port the heads, they will flow better at higher lifts, and then with a good cam, you can determine what the valve lift is with 1.6 or 1.7 and determine what are the right rockers for that combo. Stock cam is a waste of time.

So go with a 218-220 int/224-228 exh @ 050 hyd roller cam, which will have a mild bump to the idle but work well with the parts you have. Do NOT buy a cam with the same int and exh duration with those heads, like a B cam.

Actually, just call Troy at FPS and get his Level 2 cam - awesome street cam with those heads (714) 773-4177 or -4178. He is always on the phone so hang in there.

Getting a cam like that and a decent port job on the heads, with the TB, MAF and 24# inj you will have a pretty nice combo for a streeter. I would also port the intakes to match the heads.

That is what I would do if it were me... maximize what you just bought.

FYI, my buddy had an early 80s Volvo with a 305 Chevy in it back in high school with nitrous and a huge flowmaster on the rear with a single 3" dump. Car was a riot, and did the one-wheel-peel for blocks (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) Probably find some pix at his website www.denverspeed.com and you can see his 16V big turbo wagon he has right now.

[anderssj]

I managed and built all the engines at Ford Performance Solutions for a few years in the late 90s... just for background info.

The higher ratio on a rocker arm simply increases overall valve lift. So you want to use the ratio to maximize higher flow rates, assuming they exist at the lift you end up with. So that brings me to the GT40 heads - they aren't really that great, but they're good for what I think you want to do. You should consider porting them. Additionally, you REALLY need to dump the stock cam and go with a little hotter cam to take advantage of the parts you bought. There is a lot of advertising lingo with cams and guys talk level 2 or stage 2 etc... those cams are typically in the 220 dur @ 050 int range and 228-ish @ 050 exh, which 8 deg additional exh works well with a GT40 head as its exh doesn't flow as well as some other aftermarket heads.

If you port the heads, they will flow better at higher lifts, and then with a good cam, you can determine what the valve lift is with 1.6 or 1.7 and determine what are the right rockers for that combo. Stock cam is a waste of time.

So go with a 218-220 int/224-228 exh @ 050 hyd roller cam, which will have a mild bump to the idle but work well with the parts you have. Do NOT buy a cam with the same int and exh duration with those heads, like a B cam.

Actually, just call Troy at FPS and get his Level 2 cam - awesome street cam with those heads (714) 773-4177 or -4178. He is always on the phone so hang in there.

Getting a cam like that and a decent port job on the heads, with the TB, MAF and 24# inj you will have a pretty nice combo for a streeter. I would also port the intakes to match the heads.

That is what I would do if it were me... maximize what you just bought.

FYI, my buddy had an early 80s Volvo with a 305 Chevy in it back in high school with nitrous and a huge flowmaster on the rear with a single 3" dump. Car was a riot, and did the one-wheel-peel for blocks (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) Probably find some pix at his website www.denverspeed.com and you can see his 16V big turbo wagon he has right now.

Thanks for the advice--I've copied it all and pasted it into my folder for what I should do next. Interesting too, as Troy's name came up in another recommendation! I'll definitely have to give him a call as this project goes forward.

BTW, I checked out your blog--really impressive work on the MBT-8 (IMG:style_emoticons/default/w00t.gif)

Thanks again for the inputs!