Wiring harness options, Don't want to fork over 2k for a new one!! Options

[stephenaki]

OK, so I posted in an older thread about the rats nest harness and how the new fuse block didn't help much. I was thinking that the 914 was similar to my MG with a front, dash and rear harness. Well, after some research, I found that this assumption was quite wrong.

Unlike my MG where I can pay about $400 to get a all the harness, the 914 is a bit expensive and I am guessing that this is due to the rarity of the car and the way it is made. I really don't want to pay 2k for a new harness. I did find a guy on Rennlist that rebuilds them for about $500 however, I think the wiring to the lights and rest of the car are good, the only problem is the wiring into the fuse block and dash.

So, what options are available? I wouldn't mind replacing the entire harness with a rebuilt one but the problem lays in the fact that a rebuit harness is setup for an FI system which this car no longer has.

There are also 3 rubber sockets for the flasher relay and...two have switches/relays plugged in one doesn't have anything plugged in. I know, worthless without pictures. Will try to get some tomorrow if I get the garage cleaned up and MG engine dismantled. Just looking for suggestions on how best to tackle the electrical nightmare I have going on right now.

[Katmanken]

If ya have the engine out, and the seats, and the crap on top of the center tunnel it isn't that hard to do.

Think of it this way....

There is a small bundle of wires in the front trunk (lights, foglights, horn, gas level sensor, fan master cylinder) that need to be pulled into the dash and then into the drivers footwell area.

There is a small bundle of wires going from the taillights and license lights in the bumper that need to be pulled into the empty engine compartment. (run along the left side of the rear trunk.

The fuse block and under dash wiring (switches) need to be disconnected and pulled into the footwell area. Detach the wiring from the foot pedal area (brake switch). Pull the disconnected wiring towards the center tunnel. At the tunnel, the wiring comes in from the drivers side, goes around the stickshift and heads along the top of the tunnel towards the bulkhead. The wiring then dives into the center tunnel and exits into the engine compartment. In the engine compartment the wiringcomes in low on the center of the bulkhead and through a rubber pipe.

You want to pull the rear wiring into the seating area. Go into the engine compartment and pull the rubber pipe out of the bulkhead, and slowly pull the pipe off the wiring. Go slow, pull some wires if needed and try to pull small connectors through the pipe first and the larger ones last. Pulling the small ones first leaves room for the larger ones and soapy water helps. Once the pipe is free, the rear wiring needs to be pushed/pulled from the engine compartment, through the center tunnel and into the passenger area.

Installation is the reverse procedure. The replacement wiring will be stiff and won't quite fit as good as it will be a little bent out of shape. Simply massage the wiring (rubbing and bending) will get it to lay right. It's what they do at the factory...

Hope that helps. I know I forgot a few things to do, but that is the bulk of it.

Ken