OK, so I posted in an older thread about the rats nest harness and how the new fuse block didn't help much. I was thinking that the 914 was similar to my MG with a front, dash and rear harness. Well, after some research, I found that this assumption was quite wrong.

Unlike my MG where I can pay about $400 to get a all the harness, the 914 is a bit expensive and I am guessing that this is due to the rarity of the car and the way it is made. I really don't want to pay 2k for a new harness. I did find a guy on Rennlist that rebuilds them for about $500 however, I think the wiring to the lights and rest of the car are good, the only problem is the wiring into the fuse block and dash.

So, what options are available? I wouldn't mind replacing the entire harness with a rebuilt one but the problem lays in the fact that a rebuit harness is setup for an FI system which this car no longer has.

There are also 3 rubber sockets for the flasher relay and...two have switches/relays plugged in one doesn't have anything plugged in. I know, worthless without pictures. Will try to get some tomorrow if I get the garage cleaned up and MG engine dismantled. Just looking for suggestions on how best to tackle the electrical nightmare I have going on right now.

i paid $100 for a complete and unmolested main car harness from EASY, one of the usual porsche dismantlers here in CA ...

call John at EASY, Spencer at PartsHeaven or Rich at HPH ...
Andy

PS: if you do a search here, you'll find a old thread of mine where i outline how to replace the complete main harness on a car, with pictures and all ...

Thanks Andy, don't suppose you have his contact info, a website? By the way, glad to hear you got your car back. Hope you don't have to do too much to get her back up and running.

EASY http://www.easypor.com/
High Performance House http://www.highperformancehouse.com/

Thanks, I was also able to find the parts heaven site and have inquiries to both for the wiring harness. Now am I correct in my understanding that the main harness runs from the front to the back and also connects to the dash system?

Yeah, the main harness is one big wire bundle that goes from the nose to the ass, and everywhere in between.

Get help when removing the harness from the firewall area. It is a PITA, and would be very hard to do single handed without breaking stuff. Puting it back in is similar.

If you are going to pull the harness, get an Engman fuse panel. Its $100, but gives you modern fuses, is easy to do when the wire is out of the car, and hard to do when the wire is in the car.

Also, with the harness out of the car, you can look at it and find out where the issues are. You may not need to buy a new harness, but just make some simple repairs you your current one.

Zach

I have a complete and unmolested harness out of a 66,000 mile 72 that I removed last year. You can have it for 100.00 plus shipping.

Mark

As I found out after three attempts, the year of the car is critical. I bought a 71 for my 73, it didn't fit. I bought a 73 for my 73 and it was different.(maybe early '73 vs late?) (8 wires in the main (to the rear) harness were different colors and disappeared into the sheath) I bought another 73 for my 73 and it was slightly different too but maybe because my car was always a Canadian car (RR def) and one other wire was a different color. I put it in any ways, it's the closest I got. I'll tell you this summer if it works.

I just gave away a harness for a '74... ask around and I bet someone will have one...

if mark's doesnt work out i have a beautiful unmolested one that we painstakenly basically cut the car around the harness to preserve it. it's from a 71. $100 also

mike




i've got a early 73 (not real sure but think it's late 73 harness) and i've been told by some other early 73 guys here, they have 72 harnesses... go figure. there seemed to be alot of changes in 73. check with jeff bowlsby he might have some good answers

mike

Thanks for all the info; I had gotten an email from Jeff Bowlsby (rennlist guy that rebuild's harness') he said he only did he engine compartment harness. He did point out what some of you already stated; get the harness in the same year of the car and, if at all possible, ensure that it is the right model i.e. US vs Canadian or European.

Jeff and a couple of you have pointed out the difficulty in removing the harness itself and recommended trying to trouble shoot it. I will take this advice first and plan on trying to build a sub-harness similar to my MG setup. I will need to find some electrical plug type connections that I can use but it may be easier than trying to pull the entire harness. I don't have my haynes manual in front of me but does anyone know the wire gauge used for the harness?

I will tackle the wiring once I get the car home I appreciate all the help and the patience with me. If Central Texas would ever get enough interest I could formalize my automotive training here in Germany and know what the hell I am doing!

There are some helpful wire diagrams online someplace. Maybe a link here. Try the search here and on Pelican. Wiring is a pain, but you can repair the harness with patiences.

"I don't have my haynes manual in front of me but does anyone know the wire gauge used for the harness?"

Bingo, that is the #1 issue about building the main harnesses. There are easily a couple hundred wires in the main harness, every gage, every color combination. To get it factory correct would be very expensive.

ID the circuit you need to repair then look for the specific wire terminals and wire gage/color to make it work.

pulling is straight forward enough if your not worried about further damage. the hard part is the tunnel. i parts car harness sold the guy cut the whole harness at the tunnel and made a nice connector plug there. not trying to sell you on replacement if your trouble shooting skills are there and if the harness isn't too butchered it may be easier to redo.

mike

If ya have the engine out, and the seats, and the crap on top of the center tunnel it isn't that hard to do.

Think of it this way....

There is a small bundle of wires in the front trunk (lights, foglights, horn, gas level sensor, fan master cylinder) that need to be pulled into the dash and then into the drivers footwell area.

There is a small bundle of wires going from the taillights and license lights in the bumper that need to be pulled into the empty engine compartment. (run along the left side of the rear trunk.

The fuse block and under dash wiring (switches) need to be disconnected and pulled into the footwell area. Detach the wiring from the foot pedal area (brake switch). Pull the disconnected wiring towards the center tunnel. At the tunnel, the wiring comes in from the drivers side, goes around the stickshift and heads along the top of the tunnel towards the bulkhead. The wiring then dives into the center tunnel and exits into the engine compartment. In the engine compartment the wiringcomes in low on the center of the bulkhead and through a rubber pipe.

You want to pull the rear wiring into the seating area. Go into the engine compartment and pull the rubber pipe out of the bulkhead, and slowly pull the pipe off the wiring. Go slow, pull some wires if needed and try to pull small connectors through the pipe first and the larger ones last. Pulling the small ones first leaves room for the larger ones and soapy water helps. Once the pipe is free, the rear wiring needs to be pushed/pulled from the engine compartment, through the center tunnel and into the passenger area.

Installation is the reverse procedure. The replacement wiring will be stiff and won't quite fit as good as it will be a little bent out of shape. Simply massage the wiring (rubbing and bending) will get it to lay right. It's what they do at the factory...

Hope that helps. I know I forgot a few things to do, but that is the bulk of it.

Ken

no need to cut a single wire !!! (or cut up your car!)

HOW TO: Install a main wiring harness, plus, identify the wires ...
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=13582

Andy

Just follow what Andy advises since he has taken out and put in many 914 harnesses. I have seen he do it in less that four hours. By the time you have completed the harness change, you will understand it completely. The thread Andy has attached is simply great and has all the information needed to make the change without any cutting.

As soon as the snow melts, I will be replacing the harness in my 1974 with a 1973 (seat belt starting/warning system is the reason) complete harness.

Steve Hurt

Dude, you're now my favorite... So next question, on the fuse block there are holes to route the little nipple for 3 relay sockets. Pain in the ass to do this by the way, I only got one through. Of the 3 relay sockets I only had 2 with relays in them, one for the lights, the other I can't remember. Can someone tell me what each socket is for?

If I replace the sockets, are they all the same setup? I only see one version of the socket with harness offered on PP so assume that all the sockets are the same they just hook up to different wires.

I have already been formulating an evil scheme..err plan on the electrical system and looking up stuff but still need to rely on the groups expertise to help me out.

Last question, will an aftermarket wiper and and light switch work? I found a clean light switch, looking for wiper switch, that was about $20 or so. I am thinking the wiper switch more so than the light switch needs replacement but I am not opposed to putting in all new switches across the board.