Tilton Floor Mount Pedals Options

[kyhunting]

Has anyone used the Tilton Floor Mount Pedals? If so do you have pictures?

[dakotaewing]

fagafsbg

[retrofit]

fagafsbg

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif) This is awesome. Great for anyone 5'-6" or so who doesn't like the look of always having your seat halfway up towards the dash. One way to justify the expense-just in case you have to-would be to avoid a pedal set rebuild buy this new setup instead. Hmmmmm.

[byndbad914]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif) This is awesome. Great for anyone 5'-6" or so who doesn't like the look of always having your seat halfway up towards the dash. One way to justify the expense-just in case you have to-would be to avoid a pedal set rebuild buy this new setup instead. Hmmmmm.

With the race seats mounted and back against the firewall and so forth, at 5'10" it was just at the point of being close but okay. You could be a bit taller with stock seats, but yeah, if you are 6' tall or more, probably would have to change the pedal box firewall a bit to move them forward some more.

I have a pedal assy I fully rebuilt with bronze bushings and so forth and used for my daily driver, which would only snap that shit-ass goddamn clutch cable maybe twice per year (and I tried all the "perf" ones like Weltmeister) at only the most opportune times of course, like 10:30pm on the way home from school and had to be at work at 8am. With a bone-stock replacement clutch the cable would be okay, but any sort of performance clutch and I would break cables... hence why I moved on when I went V8 and so forth. There is no way in hell any after-market cable would hold up to the Kennedy pressure plate, which I have to run to hold up 438 lb-ft of torque.

It is nice to have two separate master cyls for a track car as well as going into turn 1 yesterday at 135mph and burning pads down to under 100mph in quick fashion, I have to say it is at least nice to know if a master cyl fails I can still get the car slowed down... of course if only the rear cyl is working that will be a scary ride as is, but at least not off track at 135mph with no brakes at all.

Phoenix - off the top of my head...

1. pedal assy

2. three masters. Two sizes will depend on brake piston total size front and rear but for certain the rear is smaller than the front. I have 930 brakes and got the piston diams online from a forum such as this, called Tilton and gave them the dims and they recommended the cyl sizes. IIRC I am .700 front and .625 rear. The clutch slave is .750 and that was recommended by Wilwood (it was their slave so I figured they know best what size master to run)

3. new brake lines would be good since you are in there but not required if yours are looking good. I bought short custom shielded (just adds a covering that protects the lines a bit) stainless lines from Earl's in Torrance, CA. One end fit the 3/8" outlet from the master and the other had the correct metric end to tie into the stock brake lines. Maybe a fitting or two to tie into the stock brake setup but I can't remember for sure (been a couple years since I did it in the stock car)

4. A "T" to remove the stock proportioning valve in the rear (since all bias will be controlled at the pedals now).

5. new throttle cable. I bought one custom built to the exact length I wanted from a place in SoCal with 1/4" threads so I could use off the shelf rod ends and so forth.

6. a 1/4" female rod end for the pedal assy and whatever you would need to adapt to your engine setup. I have a V8 so I use another 1/4" rod end at the Barry Grant carb.

That should be about it IIRC. If you decide to do this and find you need some contact info for the throttle cable or Earl's, I can dig that out (I have a couple FOLDERS of receipts (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) )