Has anyone used the Tilton Floor Mount Pedals? If so do you have pictures?

This question should be in the garage. It would get more views there, but here is a picture of a cars with it.

fagafsbg

Right Hand Drive

SWEET! I hate to ask how much do a set of those cost?

$468 at Summit

$2169 at HRP.com

They're really cool. When I build a 914 for my son who's a dwarf in a couple more years, I'll use those and move them back towards the seat so that his short little legs can reach the pedals.
Nobody will be able to steal the car with their knees stuck into their chin.

Now that is a funny visual ... not your Son... the thief

Oh, my son's funny too!

with master cyls an all I had about $800 in mine getting it in the car and working. Worth every penny to go to dual master, adj bias and a slave on the clutch.

Hey Thom, Thats a nice pedal fitup, looks like a lotta work and expense. I'm in Crawford planning a 914 subie. Got most of the parts. Gonna be a street car. I like the dual master brake setup with the balance bar and clutch master. Hoping for 18x8 and 18x11 with steel flares. May down size before the real construction starts. 9's are really big enough. At best i'tl never see more than 350 whl hp. Gotta get rid of a lotta junk before I can start the 914. Looking forward to milder weather. Post some pictures as you go. The pedals are really high tech.

Charliew

So how would you do a plantation kit on a 901? Can you even put a slave on a 901?

I have a 930 so it is a bit different, but I have seen them on a 901. Just gotta make a bracket to bolt it to the trans and then adapt the end of the clutch fork. Trust me, that will be the easiest part of the whole thing, so if that seems hard to figure out, then the pedal assy will be a nightmare I didn't find any part of it difficult at all if that is encouraging..... just tedious.

Now you have me thinking I should give this a try. What did you use for a slave? What was it off of?

Do you have any pictures of your work?

Not my setup Charlie - Just pics in my collection from over the years...

sorry for the late response... was loading the trailer F and racing yesterday. I had the assembly in the "old" configuration (when it was still a full stock tub) and have a couple pix that show what it looked like but nothing with great detail. I made an aluminum plate to "flatten" the floor (the pedal box area "sinks" down), made some spacers to fit in the sunken area to support the plate and bolted it down. Now the floor was essentially flat. Then I mounted the pedal assembly to my alum plate with the short master cyls right against the firewall. The slave cyl I used was a standard Wilwood brand slave unit and it is still working in the car just fine as of yesterday.

Here are my old pics
Click to view attachment

you can see I had rigged up a brake light switch with the original switch just to get the car legal again. Shortly after this pic I added an inline pressure switch to operate the brake lights (you can get them from Summit... IIRC mine is a Painless Wiring brand)

The slave - I bent the rod end immediately cuz I have a Kennedy clutch setup for the V8 that is fricken brutal so I simply used an angle-iron steel bracket in place of the setup you see here and it worked perfectly. I machined up a piece of box steel to slip-fit over the old 930 bracket and had it professionally welded
Click to view attachment

This is awesome. Great for anyone 5'-6" or so who doesn't like the look of always having your seat halfway up towards the dash. One way to justify the expense-just in case you have to-would be to avoid a pedal set rebuild buy this new setup instead. Hmmmmm.

So if I were to ask you everything I would need to order to do this do you happen to have a list of al the parts needed? I thank you for all the time you've taken already. This could be great for completing my race car.

Oh, how is the throttle handled?

With the race seats mounted and back against the firewall and so forth, at 5'10" it was just at the point of being close but okay. You could be a bit taller with stock seats, but yeah, if you are 6' tall or more, probably would have to change the pedal box firewall a bit to move them forward some more.

I have a pedal assy I fully rebuilt with bronze bushings and so forth and used for my daily driver, which would only snap that shit-ass goddamn clutch cable maybe twice per year (and I tried all the "perf" ones like Weltmeister) at only the most opportune times of course, like 10:30pm on the way home from school and had to be at work at 8am. With a bone-stock replacement clutch the cable would be okay, but any sort of performance clutch and I would break cables... hence why I moved on when I went V8 and so forth. There is no way in hell any after-market cable would hold up to the Kennedy pressure plate, which I have to run to hold up 438 lb-ft of torque.

It is nice to have two separate master cyls for a track car as well as going into turn 1 yesterday at 135mph and burning pads down to under 100mph in quick fashion, I have to say it is at least nice to know if a master cyl fails I can still get the car slowed down... of course if only the rear cyl is working that will be a scary ride as is, but at least not off track at 135mph with no brakes at all.

Phoenix - off the top of my head...

1. pedal assy

2. three masters. Two sizes will depend on brake piston total size front and rear but for certain the rear is smaller than the front. I have 930 brakes and got the piston diams online from a forum such as this, called Tilton and gave them the dims and they recommended the cyl sizes. IIRC I am .700 front and .625 rear. The clutch slave is .750 and that was recommended by Wilwood (it was their slave so I figured they know best what size master to run)

3. new brake lines would be good since you are in there but not required if yours are looking good. I bought short custom shielded (just adds a covering that protects the lines a bit) stainless lines from Earl's in Torrance, CA. One end fit the 3/8" outlet from the master and the other had the correct metric end to tie into the stock brake lines. Maybe a fitting or two to tie into the stock brake setup but I can't remember for sure (been a couple years since I did it in the stock car)

4. A "T" to remove the stock proportioning valve in the rear (since all bias will be controlled at the pedals now).

5. new throttle cable. I bought one custom built to the exact length I wanted from a place in SoCal with 1/4" threads so I could use off the shelf rod ends and so forth.

6. a 1/4" female rod end for the pedal assy and whatever you would need to adapt to your engine setup. I have a V8 so I use another 1/4" rod end at the Barry Grant carb.

That should be about it IIRC. If you decide to do this and find you need some contact info for the throttle cable or Earl's, I can dig that out (I have a couple FOLDERS of receipts )

Sweet. Thanks for the info. I think I will reward myself with doing this after I close two more sales. Thanks for the info and I may be contacting you to find your sources.

no problem. If you need something, just PM me so I get a notice... I don't always catch every thread