SOB, Warm motor idles low |
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SOB, Warm motor idles low |
redshift |
Dec 30 2003, 01:36 PM
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#1
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Bless the Hell out of you! Group: Members Posts: 10,926 Joined: 29-June 03 Member No.: 869 |
I went to handle my registration... fine.. get back in car, have to take side streets.. main roads stacked up..
I drove into downtown, engine fully warmed up, spent two minutes on the starter trying to get her to go, flutter, flutter, flutter.. never really ignited anything, just finally the revs went up.. and she's idling like 300.. I've never had that happen. Ususally, the unstable nature of her idle between starts (if idle settles at 900, it's going to 900 on idle for that trip, til you crank it again) can be dealt with by staying in the tq curve for the last minute before parking it. Not this time. So, I drove home, shut down, and she cranked right up that time, still idles in the low hundreds.. there can't be any oil pressure down there, so I keep my foot on it. I hope this isn't a valve related problem, one more valve train related problem, and goodbye flat 4s, it's been fun. M |
Brad Roberts |
Dec 31 2003, 04:32 AM
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#2
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914 Freak! Group: Members Posts: 19,148 Joined: 23-December 02 Member No.: 8 Region Association: None |
Dont install the next one you get. Leave it hanging while you test it for a few days. Getting those two screws in/out is a bitch.
I bench test them with a 12 volt source (battery charger) with them locked into a vise. You can easily pop the top off and see if the piece inside rotates. If you feel the AAR getting warm.. then the heating element still works. Then you know it is the "rotating" piece inside that is gummed up. Before you pop the top of it.. put a mark on it so you can get the "clocking" position correct when you go back together. Its a controlled vacuum leak. Pretty easy to fix or find a replacement. I thought I had pics of the top off.. I cant seem to find them. B |
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